Hard facing pattern

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This pattern of dots has proven its self on 580 buckets. It's bin working well on machines digging utility's in  And around Boston Mass.
Reply:I've done hardfacing with Stoody 21 a few times but never tried a dot pattern like that. Hmmmm...looks interesting. More details please?!POVERTY...is the Mother of InventionMillermatic 211Millermatic 140Miller Thunderbolt XLArcOne 100STS inverter w/TIGThermal Dynamics 38XL Victor Oxy/AcetyleneJancy Slugger Holemaker IIJet 5x6 BandsawNever enough time & sleep.
Reply:The close pattern of the dots help with abrasion from rock and concrete and they seem to trap dirt  that can be seen at the top of the photo  which makes for protection against  ware from dirt.The parts of the bucket  that are hard faced seem to be the area that wares the most.I also use stoody.
Reply:Whatever pattern you use, your always trying to trap dirt and use the dirt as your wear surface. Metal just isn't that abrasion resistant compared to the abrasive nature of dirt and concrete.
Reply:I had a boss wanted that done on a dozer blade (D-8N) we refaced above the corner bits on a typical angle pattern that you would do a cross hatch patternIt did work for a short time but did not stand up to rocks ...for one thing he had me spacing dots 2 inches or so apart ..that's too far apart ..but i'm just a stupid welder / equipment operatorthe pattern on that excavator / backhoe bucket looks good and seems to have worked wellBacked my CATMA over your CARMA oops clusmy me  What would SATAN do ?? Miller Trailblazer 302 AirPakMiller Digital Elite  Optrel Welding HatArcair K4000Suitcase 12RC / 12 VSHypertherm PM-45Rage 3 sawRusty old Truck
Reply:Originally Posted by ironmangqMetal just isn't that abrasion resistant compared to the abrasive nature of dirt and concrete.
Reply:I have a friend with a large equipment welding and fab shop.  He does work for the local mines and such.  I was talking about some work to be done for my tractor, and he explained his process and reasoning that apparently is quite popular in the heavy earth equipment.  Basically heavy beads in a cross hatch pattern resulting in about 25% hard face for 75% void.   His explanation was that the void catches dirt and rock, and that this consumable surface kept most of the wear off of the hard face.  He claims "big improvements" in longevity, but didn't give it a number.  He stays busy and does quite well, but I have no idea how much better (if any?) it may be.
Reply:For tips on how to do it, which material to use, and which pattern:Lincoln Electric Hardfacing guidehttp://www.lincolnelectric.com/asset...ture/C7710.pdfVictor/Stoody 50 hardfacing tipshttp://victortechnologies.com/IM_Upl...0)_May2012.pdfHardfacing rod is definitely harder. Just out of curiosity, I once grabbed a brand new metal file and gave a solid stroke along the hardfaced top of my dozers grouser. Took all the teeth off edge of the file, no visible mark on the dozer.  I have an early 1940's IH dozer, technically an antique but still gets used. Parts hard to come by, so I hardfaced the top of the grousers to ensure the track would last as long I'm still alive. About a decade ago, still going strong, no further wear. Amazing stuff.Hobbyist - At what point is a "hobby" out-of-control?
Reply:Originally Posted by tackitIf hard facing rod only is there to hold dirt why couldn't you use any kind of rod?  In dry sand and rocky soil there wouldn't be much sticking to the steel right? Not trying to disprove anything just wanting to understand better how dirt stuck in between the dots does all the work.
Reply:Long grooves would probably work good too. Reminds me of mud grooves in a bolt from a bolt action rifle. Without them, the bucket is forced to slide along the dirt, basically sanding itself down. With the dots or grooves, rather than slidealong the dirt, it can scrape a layer away as it goes by to make room for itself.