Practice on a 110 ?

admin

My fiancee's dad told me he's going to be borrowing a friend's 110 Mig so I can get a little exposure to actual welding before classes start. While I've read a lot of criticism about 110s here, I figured I might as well ask if anyone has advice for dealing with one of these.
Reply:Originally Posted by teh603I figured I might as well ask if anyone has advice for dealing with one of these.
Reply:1/8" is the max on most 110v migs under real world conditions. 14 ga material gives you a bit more leeway on power settings without dropping down to sheet metal.  Solid wire and gas, I'd suggest pushing, FC wire, drag the bead.Biggest issue with small 110v migs isn't usually the machine ( assuming a quality name brand unit). It's the power limitations of the house hold electrical system. You simply can't get enough juice to the machine to do much. Most recommend at least a 20 amp dedicated circuit. That means nothing else on that circuit to sap power and no extension cord to cause voltage drop. If you have to use an extension cord, use the shortest length and heaviest gauge cord you can to limit voltage loss. A 15 amp outlet will also limit your power coming into the machine and reduce the max thickness you can weld well. To get the most out of these small units, you want to stack the deck as much in your favor as possible.As far as using small migs, other than with thin sheet under say 16 ga ( which uses different techniques than heavier stock) welding is similar to that done with bigger machines. You want to try and stay about 3/8" off the material with the gun, move the gun at a consistent angle ( about 1 o'clock) and at a consistent travel speed. I suggest most new guys don't bother with gun motions at 1st. It's just one more thing to have to control consistently. Keep it simple to start.I'd suggest running beads on flat plate until you get the basics down before moving on to joints. This gives you the most weld time for the least amount of material used.Feel free to post up picts along with info such as what machine you are using, what power and wire speed settings, what wire size and type, what material thickness and so on and we'll be happy to help you improve. Good luck..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Originally Posted by DSW1/8" is the max on most 110v migs under real world conditions. 14 ga material gives you a bit more leeway on power settings without dropping down to sheet metal.  Solid wire and gas, I'd suggest pushing, FC wire, drag the bead.Biggest issue with small 110v migs isn't usually the machine ( assuming a quality name brand unit). It's the power limitations of the house hold electrical system. You simply can't get enough juice to the machine to do much. Most recommend at least a 20 amp dedicated circuit. That means nothing else on that circuit to sap power and no extension cord to cause voltage drop. If you have to use an extension cord, use the shortest length and heaviest gauge cord you can to limit voltage loss. A 15 amp outlet will also limit your power coming into the machine and reduce the max thickness you can weld well. To get the most out of these small units, you want to stack the deck as much in your favor as possible.
Reply:Both very good reply's.  I hope you like it when you try just try not to geet discouraged.  It will get better and better with time and practice.  Remember to have fun!
Reply:All of the above are good advice, common problems for beginners are, metal that has not been ground down to clean metal,wire speed set too slow,not watching the puddle for the proper bead profile and galvanizing.If you adjust the wire feed to the best sound, you should be close to the best speed at that particular voltage setting.
Reply:Never a bad idea to lean on an under powered machine.That way you don't learn to just turn up the power to hide lack of skill and later on be afraid of 110 volt machines if you ever have to use one.If you set the machine up to run off .025 wire and CO2 you won't ever need more than a 15 amp circuit. Just be aware welds on thicker material will require proper weld prep and preheating with a torch.old Miller spectrum 625 Lincoln SP-135 T, CO2+0.025 wireMiller model 250 and WP-18V torchCraftsman 100amp AC/DC and WP-17V torchCentury 115-004 HF arc stabilizerHome made 4 transformer spot welderHome made alternator welder
Reply:Originally Posted by BlueweldersAll of the above are good advice, common problems for beginners are, metal that has not been ground down to clean metal,wire speed set too slow,not watching the puddle for the proper bead profile and galvanizing.
Reply:Originally Posted by teh603Best "sound"?
Reply:I grew up welding with a 110v machine, I knew the limitations and stayed within them. With a little thought and practice, those machines are capable of doing a lot more than they get credit for and are perfect for learning.
Reply:Originally Posted by teh603We've got a Bobcat 225 NT in the back yard. I don't think he wants me to try welding with it (since it's set up for stick welding using a gouging stinger), but power shouldn't be a huge issue.Thanks. We've got some leftover metal off-cuts lying around the back yard, so I'll probably be starting on those.
Reply:Heck yea.  Might as well gat some practice.  You might get better advice from non professionals as many pro's don't own or use 110v welders while at work.Do some research and you will find 110v machines rated to handle up to 5/16 like the Lincoln 140.  All the people who claim they only work on 1/8 material must not have much experience on the nicer machines as they are in a different category than the 70 amp HF type units that are only good for really thin material.I was visiting a family member this weekend and got to use a Hobart 125 that I had bought for them a while back.  They had a little windmill in the yard that needed some repairs.  The little Hobart worked great and was only using about half the capacity of the machine.  Dont' believe the people who tell you they are only good for 1/8 material and will only let you weld 2 inches before the duty cycle ****s the machine down.  That is a load of BS.  The only thing I can figure is they have not ever used one because if they did they would see how incorrect their statements are.  Heck CEP was able to get one to pass a 3/8 bend test and that was a lowly import brand machine and never had duty cycle issues during testing.  They have plenty of uses and for many projects they work great and are really simple to use.  Probably why they are so much more popular than other welding machines.  Let us know how it works for you.Last edited by Roadhunter; 02-02-2015 at 01:19 PM.
Reply:Originally Posted by RoadhunterHeck CEP was able to get one to pass a 3/8 bend test and that was a lowly import brand machine and never had duty cycle issues during testing.  They have plenty of uses and for many projects they work great and are really simple to use.  Probably why they are so much more popular than other welding machines.
Reply:Roadhunter,All these stupid posts you are making just prove how little you know about welding.Just saying.Just a couple welders, big hammers, grinders, and torches.Work will free you.Men in dirty jeans built this country, while men in clean suits have destroyed it. Trump/Carson 2016-2024
Reply:Originally Posted by teh603Right, I've been looking at some of the metal we've got here... and I'm definitely going to have to grind it. Some of it's been sitting there for a long time in the humidity.Best "sound"?
Reply:Originally Posted by RoadhunterHeck yea.  Might as well gat some practice.  You might get better advice from non professionals as many pro's don't own or use 110v welders while at work.Do some research and you will find 110v machines rated to handle up to 5/16 like the Lincoln 140.  All the people who claim they only work on 1/8 material must not have much experience on the nicer machines as they are in a different category than the 70 amp HF type units that are only good for really thin material.I was visiting a family member this weekend and got to use a Hobart 125 that I had bought for them a while back.  They had a little windmill in the yard that needed some repairs.  The little Hobart worked great and was only using about half the capacity of the machine.  Dont' believe the people who tell you they are only good for 1/8 material and will only let you weld 2 inches before the duty cycle ****s the machine down.  That is a load of BS.  The only thing I can figure is they have not ever used one because if they did they would see how incorrect their statements are.  Heck CEP was able to get one to pass a 3/8 bend test and that was a lowly import brand machine and never had duty cycle issues during testing.  They have plenty of uses and for many projects they work great and are really simple to use.  Probably why they are so much more popular than other welding machines.  Let us know how it works for you.
Reply:Originally Posted by BistineauGet him to let you have a try at stick welding with the BobCat, too. Hopefully the school your going to attend will be teaching stick welding, so you might as well get a taste of that while your at it. Do y'all have two hoods, so he can watch what you are doing and you can watch him as well when you are first starting out? It's not as good when someone just hands you the stinger and a hood and says have at it, without giving you a little coaching along the way.
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWYou mean other than the fact the backing bar he welded to the piece fell off when he cut the test strips? All his test proved is that the machine is NOT capable of doing a decent job on thick materials.
Reply:i'm sure everyone and his dog has heard that every job doesn't require a sledgehammer. i have an old 110v mig at work and it  saves me from rolling out the big artillery for some smaller jobs. both pics are from a job i did a couple years ago. these are handcuff rings welded to a steel picnic table. both were attached to the table surface using 110v machines and see lots of abuse with no signs of failure. top picture is with a l-tec mig using nr-211 flux core and the other is with a maxstar using 3/32" 6010. Attached ImagesLast edited by docwelder; 02-02-2015 at 05:36 PM.i.u.o.e. # 15queens, ny and sunny fla
Reply:One should always start learning with one of those 90 Amp Speedway stick welders that retailed for $40.  IF you can actually strike and maintain an arc (with someone around the corner laughing their *** off), then you have the talent and patience to become a welder."USMCPOP" First-born son: KIA  Iraq 1/26/05Syncrowave 250 w/ Coolmate 3Dialarc 250, Idealarc 250SP-175 +Firepower TIG 160S (gave the TA 161 STL to the son)Lincwelder AC180C (1952)Victor & Smith O/A torchesMiller spot welder
Reply:Originally Posted by docwelder... these are handcuff rings welded to a steel picnic table. both were attached to the table surface using 110v machines ...
Reply:Originally Posted by OldendumI had to do 3 passes with 3/16" 7018 for the handcuff rings in the bedroom. I'll have to see about getting a steel picnic table.
Reply:Originally Posted by docwelderi'm sure everyone and his dog has heard that every job doesn't require a sledgehammer. i have an old 110v mig at work and it  saves me from rolling out the big artillery for some smaller jobs. both pics are from a job i did a couple years ago. these are handcuff rings welded to a steel picnic table. both were attached to the table surface using 110v machines and see lots of abuse with no signs of failure. top picture is with a l-tec mig using nr-211 flux core and the other is with a maxstar using 3/32" 6010.
Reply:Originally Posted by teh603Handcuff rings... on a picnic table. I'm guessing you've got a contract with the local jail?My second guess is that they're actually at a dog park, on the "big dogs" side.