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I am looking for recommendations on a good set of 1/4" shank burs specifically for aluminum. I have a set of Tin coated burs for ferrous metals but they load up pretty bad on aluminum and the cutting speed isn't very good. I am going to use them in a air die grinder, not for any specific job, I'm just sick of trying to use the ones I have on aluminum. I can search the web and have, just wondering what you use and recommend. thanksMiller millermatic 251Miller aircrafter 330st, wp201961 Lincoln SA200Ellis 1600 bandsawLogan 820 latheSouth Bend 13"Bridgeport M Head
Reply:http://www.carbidebur.com/nfburs/nfall.htmEd Conleyhttp://www.screamingbroccoli.com/MM252MM211 (Sold)Passport Plus & Spool gunLincoln SP135 Plus- (Gone to a good home)Klutch 120v Plasma cutterSO 2020 benderBeer in the fridge
Reply:Thanks. There are a lot of choices there. It does not look like they sell a non-ferrous set though. I guess the attraction of a set is that it will give me a variety of shapes and sizes without me having to pick them. If the set was the most commonly used ones that would be perfect. Any recommendations on individual ones? I do not know what ones I should buy. I suppose if I had two or three that would do the trick but there are a lot of choices on there.Miller millermatic 251Miller aircrafter 330st, wp201961 Lincoln SA200Ellis 1600 bandsawLogan 820 latheSouth Bend 13"Bridgeport M Head
Reply:As with any aluminum cutter, you can prevent loading in a few ways.Carbide is a very good idea, and cutter geometries that are more "open" lend to less loading.BUT, aluminum loads even on carbide, and I find that a little coolant helps a lot. I just use rubbing alcohol, and use a steel brush (or sometimes a scribe), to push the aluminum crap out of the teeth.
Reply:I do the scribe thing as well its a bit of a pain but it works. A fella told me once that when he cuts aluminum with his circ. saw he lubes it with crisco of all things. I never tried it on burrs though. The few non-ferrous bits I have I got from Snap-On.
Reply:In our aluminum foundry, we use carbide and HSS burs in the casting finishing processes. Two things we always try to do. One has already been mentioned. You want to run a higher cutting speed than with steel (grinder rpm, in this case) and you need to lubricate the cutting tool. We use a product called Formax F-90 on all our grinding belts and disks, saw blades, and burs.TurkeyLincoln Idealarc 250Millermatic 250Miller Synchrowave 250 Miller Synchrowave 350Thermal Arc PlasmaHH140Miller Diversion
Reply:http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/N2DRVS...IT4NO=64116633I cut a lot of aluminun w/burrs, look at the link above. A mister hooked to a compressor and a can/tank/bottle of coolant works wonders. Adjust for enough air to blow away chips w/small ammount of coolant. This will keep burrs from loading up. 25,000 rpm works but 40,000 is better.I buy burrs from link below. A pic of what you are cutting would give us clue as to which shape burr to use.http://carbideselect.com/se.phpPeter
Reply:Thanks for the help guys. I know that asking what shape I should buy is kinda silly but there are SO many shapes available. I am not thinking of any specific job just to have around for gouging, weld prep, stuff like that. I guess I will buy the shapes I like to use for steel.Miller millermatic 251Miller aircrafter 330st, wp201961 Lincoln SA200Ellis 1600 bandsawLogan 820 latheSouth Bend 13"Bridgeport M Head
Reply:I use to have this problem, a guy recommended dipping the carbide cutter into transmission fluid before starting, tried it and it worked like a charm, no loading up. I suppose any kind of light weight oil would work. I usually re dip quite frequently to keep it from loading up.Miller Bobcat 225Miller Syncrowave 200Lincoln SP 175 PlusThermal Dynamics Econo Pac 25Victor O/A
Reply:Put cutter in wax before use the rinse with acetone works for me. I now work at a shop that produces Aluminum power transmission pipes.Millermatic 251Miller Bobcat 225Lincoln 135Victor Oxy/FuelOlder Thermal Dynamics 50 amp (paid $700 with 10 sets of consumables)
Reply:^+1 Use beeswax to be exact. It often comes in a tube used for lubing up bandsaw blades before cutting aluminum. Works like a charm, although it can be a little messy sometimes.
Reply:Originally Posted by Broccoli1http://www.carbidebur.com/nfburs/nfall.htm
Reply:Originally Posted by castweldI buy burrs from link below. A pic of what you are cutting would give us clue as to which shape burr to use.http://carbideselect.com/se.phpPeter
Reply:Originally Posted by MustangousThose seem like great prices, I have been looking and normally found higher prices...thanks for the linkSo what do you guys run these burs in? I tried a aluma cut on a 1/8" aluminum in my die grinder and it just chipped and put some goudges in my aluminum. tried it at ful speed with no luck...
Reply:DW Sales in Troy Michigan is where I order my supplies, when cutting aluminum use bee's wax, WD40 works well, make sure you order the burrs recomended for aluminum, if you have a cross cut carbide burr you can use it but use plenty of bee wax or WD40 if you don't you will load up the burr |
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