Split 3/32" filler rod into two ~0.046" rods?

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I have some excess 3/32 aluminum and steel filler rods and wanted to ask you gurus if any 'ol' shop tricks exist that makes it easy to split a 3/32" thick filler rod in half so you get two ~0.046" thick rods?  (Thereby, resulting in 2 thinner filler rods)?   The filler rods that are thinner than 1/16 make it much easier for me to weld on thin walled tube, so just trying to make use of what I have..Last edited by TheMeatHead; 07-27-2013 at 06:45 AM.
Reply:Splitting no, drawing diameter down maybe.  But by the time you invested the time and money into tooling and technique to do that, you could go out and buy a bunch of 3/64" wire:http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wire_drawingMaybe try to find another local welder that has some 3/64" and see if they'd be willing to trade some of your 3/32" filler for some of their 3/64".
Reply:Or just double up some .023 mig wire, if you have any.
Reply:Also, remember that the area of a circle is pi times the diameter squared divided by four.  So if you go to half the diameter, you've only got 1/4 the area.  So it would take four 0.023" wires to make a piece of 0.046" wire, and four 0.046" wires to make a piece of 0.092" filler.
Reply:just melt half of it when you weld
Reply:My situation is I have the time to build a tool that splits 3/32" filler rod, AND a surplus of 3/32 rod.  Yes, I acknowledge it's easier to buy 0.045" filler rod, but wouldn't it be cool to build a tool that splits that 3/32" rod in half thereby using it on thin-walled tubing?  I've welded 3/32 rod onto 0.065" exhaust and aluminum tube and I've found it's much easier welding a rod onto this material that is actually thinner than the material itself.     So, how would you fellas go about building a tool that perfectly splits 3/32" filler rod if you had to?
Reply:good luck, not going to work without loosing material from both halves of the rod
Reply:As someone else said, the right way to do it is to draw it down, not split it. This is a standard metalworking operation, so no need for innovation. The tool you want is a draw plate. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Draw_plateStart by annealing the wire, then slowly reduce its diameter a little at a time, re-annealing as the wire work hardens.Hopefully, you can see why it's not considered to be worth the trouble, but if you insist on doing it, that's how. Maybe build a motor drive to pull the wire through. Too bad it's rods. It might be worth it if it was on spools and you could pull from one spool to another with motors.Last edited by joshuabardwell; 07-29-2013 at 10:19 AM.Everlast PA160-STH... and that's about it!
Reply:split it with a chisel?hammer it down thinner?
Reply:82 hole draw plate $4.10 delivered.  Don't know what size holes. [ame]http://www.amazon.com/SE-7112DPR-Drawplate-Drawing-Plate/dp/B000OVK2OY/ref=pd_sim_sbs_ac_1[/ame]"USMCPOP" First-born son: KIA  Iraq 1/26/05Syncrowave 250 w/ Coolmate 3Dialarc 250, Idealarc 250SP-175 +Firepower TIG 160S (gave the TA 161 STL to the son)Lincwelder AC180C (1952)Victor & Smith O/A torchesMiller spot welder
Reply:Hahahahahaaha.........Really?Last edited by B_C; 07-29-2013 at 02:06 PM.  Miller Dynasty 350Twenty Six HammersThree Crow BarsBig Rock
Reply:Aluminum does not draw well. This project isn't worth it. If you have spent an hour thinking about it you are already losing money. Just go buy the right stuff.Lincolin Power Wave 450, Lincoln Powermig 255, Lincoln Pro Mig 140, Lincoln Squarewave Tig 275, Miller Big 40 G(with Hobart Hefty suitcase), Thermal Arc 95S and Esab PCM875 in an already full machine shop.