Not sure what I'm doing wrong...

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New to welding, been at it a year or so. I have a Harbor Freight 90A, 110V, Flux Core Mig welder that a buddy of mine who welds for a living suggested I start out with.I've been pretty successful so far with small projects and have made some decent stuff. All in all the welder behaves when I use the suggested wire speed and amperage settings for the material I'm working with.The welder came set up for .030 flux core wire and I have continued using that until recently. While talking to another buddy of mine out of state who welds, he asked me how often I was changing my contact tips and I told him I hadn't yet. I hadn't experienced any problems (I thought) and hadn't thought of it. He laughed quite hard and said I needed to change tips fairly regularly and definitely after a year. I typically only weld on the weekends and even then, not all day both days.Long story short, since harbor freight doesn't seem to sell replacement tips for these I grabbed some Lincoln .035 tips (they were out of .030) and a spool of .035 flux core wire, Lincoln also. Put both in (after reversing the pinch roller wheel for .035 wire) and tested.It seems to work normally at lower feed speeds but the closer I get to the max speed the wire is sputtering and not making 100% contact with the material as it feeds. I adjusted the roller tension up and down, testing as I adjusted but that does not seem to change anything. The welder was not doing this before I made this change so it seems to me that it has to be related. Not sure what I'm doing wrong, hope someone can help.Thanks in advance.
Reply:Originally Posted by 82Cafe  I have a Harbor Freight 90A, 110V, Flux Core Mig welder that a buddy of mine who welds for a living suggested I start out with.
Reply:Everybody has to start somewhere... any helpful ideas?
Reply:first thing you gotta do is get more knowledgeable friends. if the contact tip was ok why would you change it? if you're an occasional welder the tip should last a very long time.i.u.o.e. # 15queens, ny and sunny fla
Reply:I don't know what you mean that the wire isn't making 100% contact with the material. Can you explain this a bit more?
Reply:Pulling the trigger the wire feeds but only arcs every few seconds instead of continuously, by contact I meant electrical contact, should have said arc.
Reply:That is precisely why I joined this forum.
Reply:Nothing wrong with low end equipment if that's all you can afford. Don't let the big box boys intimidate you. Is there a wire travel speed setting? Your wire speed may be way too high causing the wire to bounce and interrupt the arc. No need for preventive maintenance on the tip. Replace it if the wire gets stuck to it. Harbour Frieght stocks these parts. Don't use other manufacturers parts. They may have been out
Reply:Originally Posted by 82CafePulling the trigger the wire feeds but only arcs every few seconds instead of continuously, by contact I meant electrical contact, should have said arc.
Reply:Thanks Bosco, couldn't agree more.As far as the wire speed setting, it goes up to 10 (amperage unfortunately has only MIN and MAX setting). The manual recommends a wire speed of 9 for 1/8" plate with the amps at max. Worked fine at that setting before changing the tip and wire. I'll head down to harbor freight to pick up some new tips to see if that's the issue.
Reply:Originally Posted by SquirmyPugVoltage too low/wire feed speed too high. I'm guessing the machine doesn't have the voltage to burn the larger wire very well.
Reply:Originally Posted by SquirmyPugVoltage too low/wire feed speed too high. I'm guessing the machine doesn't have the voltage to burn the larger wire very well.
Reply:Are you using the same settings you used for the .030 with the .035 wire? If so, that's your problem. Play around with the wire speed settings a little and report back.
Reply:Somehow, I doubt your wire feed should be at 9. I don't know what the max wire feed is on that bad boy, and I'm too lazy to look it up, but I don't usually get past 4 or 5 on any of my welders unless I'm spraying. I started out with that welder too. I do remember it had some major wire feed issues once you got down to about 30% remaining wire. So it may help to try it with a new spool of wire. My advice would be to turn the wire down real low, like to 2, then slowly increase it WHILE welding until you get a good arc.John 3:16(2) Miller Pheonix 456(2) Millermertic 252Dynasty 210DXHobart 210MVPDoringer D350 SA Cold SawScotchman 350LT Cold SawWebb 10x50 MillWebb 15x40 LatheGeka Bendicrop Ironworker
Reply:Originally Posted by EcondronSomehow, I doubt your wire feed should be at 9. I don't know what the max wire feed is on that bad boy, and I'm too lazy to look it up, but I don't usually get past 4 or 5 on any of my welders unless I'm spraying. I started out with that welder too. I do remember it had some major wire feed issues once you got down to about 30% remaining wire. So it may help to try it with a new spool of wire. My advice would be to turn the wire down real low, like to 2, then slowly increase it WHILE welding until you get a good arc.
Reply:I looked up your wire feed recommendations, which don't make sense.For .035" wire, the wire speed should be lower than for .030" wire.This chart is likely wrong - leave the switch on high, increase the wire feed speed until it starts "stubbing" into the metal.Then back off the speed until it runs smooth.Dave J.Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~ Syncro 350Invertec v250-sThermal Arc 161 and 300MM210DialarcTried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Reply:Pull the trigger and adjust it while your welding, I do it all the time, the warning labels say not to but I haven't had one problem ever doing it. You can eliminate a whole bunch of wasted time with a perfect fine tune that way. And even if it fcked your machine up, what are you out....like $11. Harbor Fart would probably give you 20 bucks and a new machine anyway lol. I am serious tho.I hate being bi-polar it's awsomeMy Heroes Have Always Been Cowboys
Reply:With the new HF tip in it will run the .030 wire fine from roughly 2 on up, still gets a bit jumpy at 9 or 10. I don't really see the need for that high speed as I can get good welds on 1/8" at 6 or 7 on MAX. The .035 wire started sticking in the tip so I think I'll stick to the .030 until I can figure out that issue.
Reply:Originally Posted by weldermikePull the trigger and adjust it while your welding, I do it all the time, the warning labels say not to but I haven't had one problem ever doing it. You can eliminate a whole bunch of wasted time with a perfect fine tune that way. And even if it fcked your machine up, what are you out....like $11. Harbor Fart would probably give you 20 bucks and a new machine anyway lol. I am serious tho.
Reply:I started out with a 90 FC Harbor Freight welder just like you.  It served it's purpose for sure.  It helped me repair some railing on my home and I went on to build a sprayer frame for the tractor. I could never get the thing dialed in. After I got hooked, I upgraded to a HH140 and was blown away by the difference in arc and weld quality.  Night and day difference for me.Syncrowave 210HH140Victor O/A
Reply:I just looked at 3 or 4 welding forums searching under HH140 and it looks like nearly everyone has good things to say about it.
Reply:If you're ready to upgrade, a 230V machine will keep you happy longer. That 140 should have been your first machine.SqWave 200Millermatic 190Airco 200 ACHypertherm PM45Boice-Crane Band SawVictor O/A
Reply:Originally Posted by 82CafeThanks everyone...Econdron, the max speed on the machine is 10 and inside the lid once you get up to 1/8" it calls for near that speed. I picked up some new Harbor Freight tips and am going to try and dial it back in, starting low speed and slowly moving up like you suggested. I will report back.The HF tips say they work for both .030 and .035 so I'll try both wires to see if there is still an issue. I'm looking at picking up a more serious welder now that I have some beads under my belt and am doing more projects. I've been reading the posts about what welders to buy and they are pretty helpful but I'm open to suggestions. I plan on mostly welding mild steel, no more than 1/4" thick, although probably nothing that thick very often.I appreciate everyone's help.
Reply:Originally Posted by BrazinIf you're ready to upgrade, a 230V machine will keep you happy longer. That 140 should have been your first machine.
Reply:One problem with the HF welder.It has an ac output.Wire welders run on DC.Polarity depends on gas or flux wire.The author of a book on aircraft welding said to avoid small cheap wire welders if you are learning mig welding.The problems you have will sour you on welding and cause you to give up.My Miller 130 cost me 300 bucks used.Remember this rule..CRAP IN CRAP OUT.Originally Posted by farmer37One problem with the HF welder.It has an ac output.Wire welders run on DC.Polarity depends on gas or flux wire.The author of a book on aircraft welding said to avoid small cheap wire welders if you are learning mig welding.The problems you have will sour you on welding and cause you to give up.My Miller 130 cost me 300 bucks used.Remember this rule..CRAP IN CRAP OUT.
Reply:The low end welders almost never weld well with  .035, stick with the .030.
Reply:Originally Posted by 82CafeI have to disagree with you somewhat, I think there's a benefit to starting out with the low end equipment. If, with all of the challenges the HF machine presents, I can still create a good weld, I'll be that much better with a good one. I may be working that much harder to get the good result but that only sharpens technique. That being said I do think it's time for an upgrade, what would you suggest in the 230V range that won't break the bank?
Reply:Time to read the harbor fright forum.
Reply:Originally Posted by 82CafeI have to disagree with you somewhat, I think there's a benefit to starting out with the low end equipment. If, with all of the challenges the HF machine presents, I can still create a good weld, I'll be that much better with a good one. I may be working that much harder to get the good result but that only sharpens technique. That being said I do think it's time for an upgrade, what would you suggest in the 230V range that won't break the bank?
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWThe problem comes with whether or not you are making "good" welds. Mig is notorious for making "pretty" welds that are cold and have very little strength. Small low amp 110v migs are the worst with this issue. These are not "good" welds. learning to make bad welds repeatedly doesn't gain you anything even if you thing they are good. All it does is instill bad habits.Unless you really know what to look for, your opinion on this is suspect. Most newer welders who buy machines like you did, simply don't have the skills or experience yet to make the call about how good your welds are.Post up picts of your welds, along with ALL the info, Material thickness, machine used, machine settings on power and wire speed, wire size and type used, push or pull if need be, position welded if other than flat, and we can help you learn how to determine what a "good bead is.I'll agree with you some what that using a smaller machine can help sharpen your skills. However, it's much easier to get good results with a machine having more power. Small inexpensive migs often lack any of the standard features of even better 110v migs, like on board capacitors. These caps help extend how long you get max power and allow you to run hotter/longer. This makes a big difference on small machines as if you know what to watch for, it's pretty clear to tell even with the better machines when the caps are drained as weld quality drops noticeably after that point. 230v machines with their higher duty cycles at the power levels of smaller machines, don't have this issue as well as having the extra power to spare if you need it.There's way too many possible options out there to list them all. Almost any 230v powered mig from a name brand company like Miller, Hobart, Lincoln, Esab or Thermal Arc would fit the bill. This also includes used machines. Many newer machines will also allow you to use either 110v or 230v power. On 110v power they are limited just like the better small migs to about 1/8" steel under real world conditions. ( yes you can weld thicker stuff for noncritical applications or if you have a high skill level and do proper prep...). On 230v power you can do up to 1/4" or even 3/8" no problem depending on the machine. These would be machines like the HH210, MM211 and so on. They are more expensive, but they give you more options for your money.
Reply:You can post them in this thread, or you can start another thread asking for comments on your welds. It really doesn't matter if they get posted in the MIG/TIG/ Stick section or the General Welding Questions area. At worst if it's in the wrong place, say Introductions, one of the Mods can always move it.Key to getting good help is clear picts that show the weld well, as well as all the info you can provide. Machine used, settings for heat and wire speed, wire type and size used, material thickness and so on. The more we know, the  less we have to guess at, and the better answers and help you get.It can often be frustrating to have 8 or 10 posts back and forth only to later find out the user had just swapped over from say FC wire to solid wire and gas, but didn't bother to change the polarity, or find out that all the welds were done overhead for some reason vs flat. That or the picts are taken for 10 feet away and show a really nice project, but the welds are so tiny, it's impossible to see any details..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWYou can post them in this thread, or you can start another thread asking for comments on your welds. It really doesn't matter if they get posted in the MIG/TIG/ Stick section or the General Welding Questions area. At worst if it's in the wrong place, say Introductions, one of the Mods can always move it.Key to getting good help is clear picts that show the weld well, as well as all the info you can provide. Machine used, settings for heat and wire speed, wire type and size used, material thickness and so on. The more we know, the  less we have to guess at, and the better answers and help you get.It can often be frustrating to have 8 or 10 posts back and forth only to later find out the user had just swapped over from say FC wire to solid wire and gas, but didn't bother to change the polarity, or find out that all the welds were done overhead for some reason vs flat. That or the picts are taken for 10 feet away and show a really nice project, but the welds are so tiny, it's impossible to see any details.