band saw advice please

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I have been on the lookout for a metal cutting saw for some time now.  Either a band saw or a cold saw like the dewalt multi cutter or maybe both!  Well I found two bandsaws locally that I'm interested in and wondering if anyone with a little more experience than me could give some opinions.  Both are older and look a little rough but are in my price range and I'm pretty sure even though they are older that they would be better than any 300 dollar new band saw.The first is a carolina and the guy wants 325 for it.  The second one the guy doesn't know what brand it is and says he has cut 10" stock before.  Can anyone offer any advice on either of these saws?  Thanks for any help with this.
Reply:They both look like carolina saws.Lincoln 300 Vantage 2008300 Commander 1999SA250 1999SA200 1968Miller Syncrowave 200XMT350MPA/S-52E/xr-15Xtreme 12vs Millermatic 251 w/30A  Millermatic 251 Dialarc 250 Hypertherm 1250 GEKA & Bantom Ironwokers
Reply:Hello ponch37300, They might not be my first choice for a saw, yet if they are in decent shape, you can adjust the blade guides, and the bearings and rollers are all in serviceable shape, they might make a reasonable addition to your shop. Check out the shape and condition of the bandwheels and associated bearings, drives, gearbox, etc. From what I can see, a saw of that size should probably have around a 1 1/2 to 2 hp motor, if it's much less than that it might not perform up to it's actual capability. Does it have a hydraulic drop cylinder? and is it a wet-saw? those two features can mean a lot when you are considering a band saw. Price wise it might be in the ball park, yet you might consider offering a bit less depending upon the overall condition of it and whether it has many of the features that I mentioned. Whenever I consider used equipment I always try to tell myself that if it is meant to be at my house then it will end up there. So, unless you are in a big hurry consider your options, keep your eyes open for other choices and certainly bargain to the best of your ability. Best regards, Allanaevald
Reply:Thanks for the advice guys.  From what I can see in the pic the are not hydralic assisted or liquid cooled.  I could buy a brand new wilton for just under 700.  http://www.vansantent.com/Saws/Wilto...al_bandsaw.htmCan anyone give advice about any of these saws for the price?  The large one looks nice but think it's a little more than I want to spend.  The smaller ones are on the high end of what I wanted to spend but if they are going to be a nice saw than it might be worth it instead of buying something used and finding out the bearings are shot or something like that.  They have two 5x8" saws.  A dry cutting and a wet cutting one.  The dry cutting one is about 50 bucks more than the wet cutting saw.  I always thought the wet cutting saws where better than dry cutting?  Why would the dry cutting be 50 bucks more?  Thanks again for your help
Reply:Hello ponch37300, it's kind of the age old story, if you don't get something large enough to begin with it's often hard to upgrade when you need to. Additionally, being oversize and having extra capacity generally means less wear and tear on the unit and longer life and better accuracy. So you certainly have to take those things into consideration. As to the dry saw being more expensive, that is rather opposite of how it generally is. Best regards, Allanaevald
Reply:I started out on my own I got a wellsaw 58 given to me by my grandfather in a box of parts.  After an extensive rebuild, I got it up and running.  Soon after I got it running I realized that bladespeed was half of Ellis 1800 and rockwell 9.   My little baby bandsaw handled a lot of sawing for me.  But it never was big enough.  So  I just happen to stop by my old job and asked them what they where doing with the rockwell 9 saw.   $200 cash and it was in the bed of my pickup.  Production is up because of blade speed and capacity So there is point to this story.  You can started out with a cheap little saw to get you by.  Then have to up grade it to something bigger.  So save your money and find a really big saw and buy that in the first place.Lincoln 300 Vantage 2008300 Commander 1999SA250 1999SA200 1968Miller Syncrowave 200XMT350MPA/S-52E/xr-15Xtreme 12vs Millermatic 251 w/30A  Millermatic 251 Dialarc 250 Hypertherm 1250 GEKA & Bantom Ironwokers
Reply:Well I'm not going to be in production so it doesn't have to cut fast but just needs to be able to cut!   I believe the 5x8 will handle almost anything I need it for and I don't think I want to spend 1000 bucks on a saw right now so it would probably be the 5x8" saw for just under 700 if I go this route.  My other option is a cold saw like the dewalt multi cutter.  I have read good reviews of this saw and also bad reviews.  I mostly cut angle, flat, and square tube and usually under 2" wide.  Would be nice to be able to cut on a 45 angle which the dewalt can do.  A cold saw might be a better choice for me than a band saw since I'm not a production shop and just need to cut smaller stuff.  Would be nice to have both!The third option would be buying a used band saw like the two above but they look like they are in rough shape and not sure how much it would take to get them back into good shape and what all is involved with a rebuild.  If I pay 200 for the saw and it takes 200 to rebuild it, it might be better to buy a new one for 700?Sorry for the rambling but just thinking out loud and hoping for someone's experience to recommend what they would do.  Thanks again, Scott
Reply:I would rather buy and rebuild one of those old saws, than buy that wilton.   Bearings are easy and not too expensive (most of the time) to replace.  I'd definately look over the gears and blade wheels though.  Those are the expensive bits.  Those old saws look like they have fabricated heads.  I prefer those over cast because you can correct them.  If they crack you can weld them.  If they get tweaked then you can straighten them.  Cast parts keep me up at night.
Reply:Originally Posted by BoostinjdmI would rather buy and rebuild one of those old saws, than buy that wilton.   Bearings are easy and not too expensive (most of the time) to replace.  I'd definately look over the gears and blade wheels though.  Those are the expensive bits.  Those old saws look like they have fabricated heads.  I prefer those over cast because you can correct them.  If they crack you can weld them.  If they get tweaked then you can straighten them.  Cast parts keep me up at night.
Reply:Well I decided to buy a dewalt cold saw today.  Think it will serve me good for what I need it for.  We'll see how well it cuts, I've read it leaves a nice clean edge.As for the band saw, I would still like to get one since I know there is times when a band saw is better than the cold saw.  The nicer band saw in my first post is sold so the other one is still available for 200 bucks.  Sounds like a decent deal even though it's in rough shape. I found you can still get parts for them to.  Can anyone tell me how to check out a bandsaw?  What to look for in the gearbox and wheels?  Thanks, Scott
Reply:ive never seen a dewalt cold saw if i was cutting a lot of alum. i would go for a cold sawi mean cutting alum. squ and rd stock for railings40 hrs a week i started with a grizzly 6013for $1400.00 would like to have a ellis some daybut the grizzly is a great saw for the $$$just cut 63 33"x1/2x1/2 in less than an hr Attached Images
Reply:here is the saw I bought.  Read alot of good and some bad so guess I'll see how it works. http://www.dewalt.com/us/products/to...?productID=159That grizzly looks nice.  I was looking at one for around 400 bucks that looks similar but only a 4x6.  http://www.grizzly.com/products/4-x-...vel-Head/G9742Hopefully the dewalt will do good and then if I get the band saw I can rebuild it and be a decent saw.
Reply:I lucked out about a year ago and got a brand new Porter Cable 1410 off of Ebay for $200. It looks very similar to your dewalt.   I don't think you will be disappointed.  I love mine and wonder what I did without it.  I will caution you that you don't want to cut very heavy material with it or blade life will be greatly reduced.  I've cut some 3/8 by 2 flat with it and it did a beatiful job, but the blade was dulled quite a bit.  Also, be very careful to tighten the clamp super tight.  I've had a few brain cramps and knocked some teeth off the blade and probably dang near decapitated myself by the saw throwing a piece out that wasn't clamped properly.  Overall, if you cut tubing, pipe, lighter flat stock, and only mild steel you should love the speed and the accuracy.  For heavier stuff and mystery metal, I have a Northern Tool 4x6 bandsaw that I use, but never can seem to keep it adjusted right and cutting square.  Just about the time I get it right, the guides are too tight and I break a blade or something.  Enjoy your saw!