Refinishing old tools?

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So I was back home at my farm, getting some tools and such, I was planning on cleaning out a old shed of mine of old foreign made tools for use in the welding rig, as I don't care if they get lost or stolen really, and I was in the old farm house, my grandparents old farm house to specific, getting a pressure washer that was put down in the basement.I went into the old work shop my grandpa had in the basement.  I lived in this house with my parents growing up, when my grandparents didn't live there, but my grandpa still farmed there, and I remember the little shop was off limits to all the grandkids except for me.  I look through all the tools he left in there, and the tools he recently gave me out in the garage.  The ones down in the shop were pretty rusty (damp basement) and the ones in the garage, the ones he used, had spots of rust on them.  There wasn't a complete set of any one brand of tools, but a mix & match of old, long gone, tool names, and some of the bigger ones, Craftsman, Snap-On, & Stanley.  All Made in the good old USA.Got me thinking, I'd rather restore these old tools instead of using the cheap foreign made ones.  I've got a sandblast cabinet, just needs to be fixed so it fits my shrek arms & hands.  How well do you think powdercoat would hold up?  Or any other ideas for re-finishing them?
Reply:Depends on what we're talking about.For wrenches, sockets, screwdrivers, and things that were originally bare metal, I spray with oil (used to use wd-40, now I use quality gun oil), and buff on a steel wire brush wheel.  It removes the loose rust, and leaves a brown finish that is pretty rust resistant.
Reply:Powder coat is good just keep it off the thumb screws of wrenches and inside sockets also the contact surfaces of the tools( part contacting the nut or bolt) The thing is powder coat although good will chip, and pieces brake off. Once that happens would have to redo the tool over again. Might consider some good quality plastic grip dip. That stuff works good and if it does start t come off not hard to dip again. Or you could go the expensive way that would last longer (not to sure with the stuff used now-a-days) CHROME. They would look good as new and hold up. Like I said though it is the expensive way.
Reply:I'm not a fan of chrome, as indicated by name.  We got some Armstrong tools when I worked at Case, and I really liked them, they had a flat black finish to them but they would rust too easily.  I'll probably end up going the powdercoat route when I can afford it.
Reply:If you have the room might look at the hobby powder coat guns at Eastwood. They have one that you can adjust the voltage on. It was around $200 or so and just use an old electric oven and you can do all your tools in any color you chose. You already have the sandblaster.I did everything from fishing reels, rims, bike frames, and engine parts. Most if not all have lasted the past 5 years or so. You are just limited by your oven size and prep work.Sorry about the chrome. I thought you just did not like your Grill (mouth) all bling'd out with gold an diamonds ( or cubic zirconia)Last edited by speedyshark1; 08-24-2009 at 11:20 PM.Reason: forgot to add this
Reply:You may want to consider this for the rust removal:http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php...t=electrolysisIf you don't want to stand behind our Troops, feel free to stand in front of them.
Reply:Here's an idea that might be useful for SOME of the tools.  It might be of interest to other readers.Attached is a thread from a different board.http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/sho...k+oxide+finishIt is pretty complete with all you need and some good Q&A.RANT ONThis link is only ½ as good as it was with pictures.  Threads that have hosted pics like this one become useless over time.RANT OFF
Reply:One real good way to finish them would be to gun blue them. Brownell's used to, and may still, sell all the chemicals, but if you know a gunsmith, here is the drill-     Find out when he is planning on replacing his blueing chemicals, I'm talking about the hot salt blue. As it is used it gradually wears out, the guns don't come out as nice, but it is still perfect for tools. Just wire brush, sandblast, or buff off the rust, or use an acid bath. Then put the tools in in batches. They will come out a mottled blue/black -almost a case hardened color. Some high chrome tools won't blue well, but are still protected. Run the ones with spotty chrome last. If you buy the new chemicals for him, or help with the cost and the fuel it shouldn't be too bad. - As a side note, at one time over 20 years ago, in gunsmith school, I reblued dozens of guns without stripping off any of the old blue, they were just old farm guns. They came out looking good, and they still look good. The reson to find the gunsmith is to avoid having to build your own vats, but hey, a gas burner and a couple of 5 gallon cans will do as well.    Method 2; Parkerizing - this was used on aircraft tool kits in WW2. It entails boiling the tools in a mixture of phosphoric acid and iron filings, this would be a real easy job for a back yard mechanic. It was standard to sandblast first, but they parkerized a lot of tools without blasting. I know where there are hundreds of pounds of these tools without rust, it works pretty well.     Method 3; zinc powder blasting, using a cheap harbor freight blaster without a dust extraction system, blast the tools with zinc powder meant for structural iron paint, or zinc shot. It will leave a fairly clean tight zinc coating that will protect the surface better than you expect.     Method 4; dip the tools in warm boiled linseed oil. Good for axes etc.past work toys; lathes,mills, drills, saws,  robots, lasers ironworker, shears, brake, press, grinders, tensile tester,  torches, tigs, migs, sticks, platten table, positioner,  plasmas , gleeble and spot. Retired June 30, 2009.
Reply:WD-40 and a rag or a SOFT scotch brite pad, Diesel fuel mixed with tranny fluid works wonders on rusted to $hit tools as well.Disclaimer; "I am just an a$$hole welder, don't take it personally ."