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Hi,After reading various things and looking at what I see available locally, hoping to get some guidance on this. At the moment what I own is a miller thunderbolt AC/DC ~225 AMP stick. I do a little mig welding from time to time too (using friends 220 volt units). I do not claim to know what I'm doing; I've been welding little projects for 20 years but never enough to get good at it.To give an idea of what I'm usually working with, at the moment I'm set on ~120 amps DC w/ a 1/8 7014, building something out of 1/4 inch plate.My eyes are pretty sensitive. I see 25/20 without needing reading glasses and often wear sunglasses even when it's raining, bright lights drive me nuts but at the same time I see well without much light (for instance I can walk around wearing a 10 shade). This I think is somewhat of an issue for me when welding - the shade has to be just right. The welder I've got came as a gift, along with a Radnor auto darkening 10 shade hood - the non-battery fixed style. First couple attempts at using the hood I determined something between the shade and speed of the shade was a complete no-go, felt like I was staring at the sun for hours later. I got some different static shades and played around, settled on an 11 shade w/ tinted (motorcycle) goggles as safety glasses behind it. This setup works *OK* and keeps me from flashing myself much if I forget to flip down (since I'm already wearing sunglasses). The problem I ran into today is changing sticks and settings I can't see what I'm doing, need to go down in the shade. Thinking maybe it's time for a better auto-darkening hood w/ some adjustment, but am skeptical as to whether it's going to work with my eyes on a budget that makes sense for here-and-there use (say under $200).. I see styles w/ and without battery, speeds in the ballpark of 1/12,000 to 1/25,000, mostly ranges 9-13 (which is fine for what I'm doing I think).. On the other hand was thinking maybe I should just get a couple cheap hoods with static shades and then I could just swap helmets when this arises. Any advice appreciated!Thanks,JonLast edited by leaky; 02-01-2015 at 07:56 PM.
Reply:if your eye's are problematic try a passive lens hood with tinted glasses under it.i.u.o.e. # 15queens, ny and sunny fla
Reply:Originally Posted by docwelderif your eye's are problematic try a passive lens hood with tinted glasses under it.
Reply:Do you have blue eyes? I do and mine are very light sensitive but I weld on 9-11 with an autodark hood.GravelThe difference between theory and practice is that in theory there is no difference.
Reply:Originally Posted by leakySo at the moment that's what I'm doing, 11 shade passive and I wear the tinted glasses.. You are saying best not to bother with an auto? Is that a common problem?Thanks!Jon
Reply:I probably should mention that Radnor I've got is a real cheapie, like a $40 auto-darkening helmet. Was figuring maybe for more $$ I could get one that would better and it would be OK, but maybe best just to stick with the simple thing.
Reply:Originally Posted by GravelDo you have blue eyes? I do and mine are very light sensitive but I weld on 9-11 with an autodark hood.
Reply:Optrel e680/e684. Done. 1st on WeldingWeb to have a scrolling sig! HTP Invertig 400HTP Invertig 221HTP ProPulse 300HTP ProPulse 200 x2HTP ProPulse 220MTSHTP Inverarc 200TLP HTP Microcut 875SC
Reply:I tried a cheap helmet once and hated it. I got a good Hobart and I use it all the time now. My blue eyes also tend to be on the sensitive side so I often arc with it set around 12 to 13. Harder to see, but easier on the eyes.250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC StickF-225 amp Forney AC Stick230 amp Sears AC StickLincoln 180C MIGVictor Medalist 350 O/ACut 50 PlasmaLes
Reply:I put together a pretty sweet hood recently, it's a Pipeliner shell with an Arcone Tradesman lens and Jackson 370 headgear. Total cost was $125, and my coworker prefers my Arcone lensed good to his Optrel, I think it's a better lens than the Miller Digital Elite as well. Unbelievably clear in the light state and darkens up quickly. They make another lens that had shade adjustments and a getting mode too, I believe it's their SS240, which would bump the cost up a little but not much.
Reply:Originally Posted by leakyHazel actually. What hood do you use? I think my eyes are just generally sensitive - as a kid couldn't go down the soap isle at the grocery store. Don't get me wrong either, not some kinda a pansy, just hard to do anything when your eyes are killing you, all squinty spotted or teared up.Jon
Reply:The only thing I don't like about my Hobart is the automatic off that will kick out if you stop to grind for a while. You have to get in the habit of making sure it's on when you pick it up. Seems to me on another post that there is a Miller that gives you the option of shutting that off. I haven't tried one but either way I think you'll like it a way better than that HF.250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC StickF-225 amp Forney AC Stick230 amp Sears AC StickLincoln 180C MIGVictor Medalist 350 O/ACut 50 PlasmaLes
Reply:Originally Posted by leakySo at the moment that's what I'm doing, 11 shade passive and I wear the tinted glasses.. You are saying best not to bother with an auto? Is that a common problem?Thanks!Jon
Reply:Originally Posted by GravelAlso thought about getting a pipeliner with an ss240 super single.
Reply:Originally Posted by docwelderi myself don't trust the ad shields and won't use one so can't say if they are good or bad. i see some comments referring to blue eye color contributing to light sensitivity. i have blue eye's and do not experience it. i use a #11 filter with a #2 cheater and wear my prescription glasses when welding.
Reply:Good optics are worth the money and with AD hoods, you usually get what you pay for.Having said that, my fixed shade Jackson Shadow I've had for years is as clear or clearer than my $300 Miller Ad hood. I have several fixed shade lenses that I can install in the Jackson, but usually I keep a pretty dark one in it as an "emergency" hood. ( I think it has a 12 or 13 in it right now. My Miller I like because I often have to change the darkness setting when changing students and processes and due to the poor lighting in some of the booths at the school. It's much easier to simply dial up or down the darkness as needed.One falicy I see regularly is that many people think if they can't see well, they need a lighter shade. In many cases it's the glare from the arc that is the problem, and going darker, not lighter allows them to see better. 2nd major issue is back lighting. I know the HF hoods don't cover the back of the head as much as other hoods do and allow in more back light that can be distracting. T cover over your head/neck can often solve this issue..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Go darker with your shade I weld 1/8" 7018 with #12 filter shade from Phillips safety.Ranger 250 thick stuffHobart Handler 140 not thick stuffthe pane and oxy setup
Reply:Leaky, I had the same problem. After welding a while, my eyes hurt and stayed that way for a day or more. I have a Harbor Freight AD hood and cranked it up to 13. Still had a problem. Even had a problem with my fixed shade hood (#10) so it wasn't because of a "cheap" AD hood not turning on quick enough.Then I aimed a 250 watt halogen work light right at what I was doing and surprisingly have had no more eye trouble even with the hood backed down to 9 1/2. I think the problem was caused by the constant shifting from dark (pre arc) to light (arc). When I evened that out with the halogen, the trouble stopped.Last edited by JD1; 02-02-2015 at 10:49 AM.
Reply:Yea, something as simple as dust on the lenses, either inside or out, can really mess with the glare. Step one is to select the right lens for what you are doing. Select good quality lenses and helmets and I believe there are charts in the Lincoln site to help you with that. Step 2 is to keep your equipment clean and well maintained.250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC StickF-225 amp Forney AC Stick230 amp Sears AC StickLincoln 180C MIGVictor Medalist 350 O/ACut 50 PlasmaLes
Reply:Originally Posted by OscarOptrel e680/e684. Done.
Reply:Originally Posted by KineticWeldingServicGo darker with your shade I weld 1/8" 7018 with #12 filter shade from Phillips safety.
Reply:Maybe the halogen would help and you wouldn't need the sunglasses. Like i mentioned, I went from 13 to 9 1/2 when I added it. Of course everyone's eyes are different. Mine are blue BTW. I haven't welded for a full day but so far it's working fine.Last edited by JD1; 02-02-2015 at 06:48 PM.
Reply:Sun glasses and filter shades are two totally different critters. I have welded with sunglasses on while outside and couldn't tell a difference in the puddle, I wore them for when my hood was up thing would be glaring at me. Try a darker shade and see if it helps I went from a #10 and squinting my eyes cause it was bright to a #12 and actually opening my eyes more and scooting in to the puddle to see more detail. All in all you just have to find what works for you.Ranger 250 thick stuffHobart Handler 140 not thick stuffthe pane and oxy setup
Reply:Thanks again, going to try a few things.Step #1 is I'll give the lenses a good cleaning and try what I've been doing again. I have been getting some glare due to really cold temps (fog) and constantly handling the lenses, maybe that's most of the problem.Also on the lighting, I've been using a fairly small light aimed at the project, for the purposes of allowing me to easily see what I'm doing with sunglasses on - will switch that out for something brighter and see how it goes.Then I guess if all else fails should go for a more decent auto helmet - I don't want to spring for a $300 hood just yet though, hopefully I figure it out without going there. Jon
Reply:Too many welders using #10 lens shade!!!That is the lowest number and too many big box stores are selling them with cheap welding helmets!!If you are stick or MIG welding start with a #14 or a #12. If your eyes hurt the day after welding -YOU need a darker lens!!!Remember you want to see the weld puddle NOT all the things in the room like the table etc.,.The welding lens is to see what is going on with the weld puddle and the fusion you are getting.All this talk about sensitive eyes is not necessary. ALL EYES ARE SENSITIVE TREAT THEM LIKE GOLD!GEt the lenses with the gold reflective front.AWS certified welding inspectorAWS certified welderYou already have issues, don't compound them with a cheap hood. Buy a good quality 9-13 adjustable hood and that should cover you for as dark as you want to go.
Reply:I have one blue eye, one blind brown eye, and my drivers liscence says hazel ........getting a waiver for a fire engine liscence was interesting except three of my best fire fighters only have one eye and have never wrecked anything. Anyway, I do use a miller auto helmet for short jobs but I prefer a standard fixed lens if I weld for hours. I haven't tried the LED light but I think it would be a good idea.
Reply:OK so I pulled out the lenses to clean and inspect for anything causing glare. #1 problem I found was the green plastic protective wrapper was still on one side of one of my clear lenses (durr)..Cleaning the lenses, removing the wrapper, and installing a #12, as well as aiming a larger light on the project was a HUGE improvement. Don't get me wrong, I still suck, but I put down the best beads I think I've ever made. I stuck with the sunglasses this time.Also ordered a gold #12 lens, will give that a shot when it shows up.Maybe for the next project I'll start with an auto/adjustable helmet, it doesn't seem like much is recommended under the $200 range though and I don't want to spend that right now. Thanks again!Jon
Reply:Leaky, I have 2 inexpensive (cheap) ADs and 2 fixed shade (1 gold) that have done okay but I recently bought a Striker CSV from USAWELD.com for about $160 and I've been very pleased with it. Much clearer vision and good AD function. I did tape the switch in the WELD position after getting flashed when I forgot to switch it from GRIND back to WELD and I ALWAYS clip a dark cover over the top/back of the hood to stop light from coming in and reflecting on the inside of the lens. Makes a world of difference in my brightly lit shop.Dillon/Henrob/Cobra 2000, Victor 100FC, Meco-N-Midget, Hobart HH187, Miller Thunderbolt 225AC, Razorweld Vipercut 30A Plasma, and lots of grinders
Reply:Is that a dark cover you can buy or just a piece of dark fabric you clip on somehow? I need to try that. At some angles my halogen light gets under my hood.
Reply:Originally Posted by JimboTNLeaky, I have 2 inexpensive (cheap) ADs and 2 fixed shade (1 gold) that have done okay but I recently bought a Striker CSV from USAWELD.com for about $160 and I've been very pleased with it. Much clearer vision and good AD function. I did tape the switch in the WELD position after getting flashed when I forgot to switch it from GRIND back to WELD and I ALWAYS clip a dark cover over the top/back of the hood to stop light from coming in and reflecting on the inside of the lens. Makes a world of difference in my brightly lit shop.
Reply:I had a similar eye issue, but was ok out in the sun. Pix above are my nickel quikie solution. 500W worklight on an extension slipped into the boom on my cherry picker. Clamp it on w/ visegrips and go. I use the snot out of this, not just for welding - works awesome and didn`t cost a plug nickel as I already had everything. Nice long reach to boot. After going to this for inside work my eyes are much happier, went down to 10-11 on my AD hood instead of 13.I also have blue eyes, never considered it as contributing to my issues - but now I wonder... Attached ImagesLast edited by Rocketprophet; 02-10-2015 at 11:03 PM.
Reply:I use a 3M speedglass, not cheap but effective.Mrfix
Reply:Thanks for that guys - the light idea worked good, I do something similar with a work light.I use a lot of different 3M products and swear by them, so the 3M hood looked good to me and one was I've looked at; that Striker has some really good reviews though and is in the ballpark of $160 if you shop around, seems to be a notch above the $100 stuff without breaking the bank.Jon
Reply:JD1, sorry for the delay in replying. I went to Goodwill, found a leather jacket made of thin leather, bought if for $10 and cut enough from the back to make two "hoods" that I use bulldog type paperclips to attach to whatever hood I'm using. Cheap, relatively light, flameproof.Draped the leather from the back of the hood over the front, smoothside down. Applied bulldog clips. Draped the leather back over the clips so it is folded over the clips. It's not glamorous or photogenic but it does the trick, should last a long time, and is portable.YMMVDillon/Henrob/Cobra 2000, Victor 100FC, Meco-N-Midget, Hobart HH187, Miller Thunderbolt 225AC, Razorweld Vipercut 30A Plasma, and lots of grinders
Reply:Thank you. I like that idea. A week ago I got a black 100% cotton shirt from Goodwill and basically did the same thing. Just used electrical tape to hold it on. Makes a HUGE difference. But I like your idea better so I think I'll go back over there and look for some thin leather. |
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发表于 2021-8-31 22:43:11