Anyone else have trouble with Home Depot 6011 on Lincoln AC/DC box?

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Bought a box of 3/32 for sheet metal 11 ga (1/8") for some smaw practice on my Lincoln AC/DC 225/125. With tapped amps it was impossible to find a spot between too hi amps causing a flat bead (including burn through) and too low amps where the rod would stick repeatedly making it very hard to hold a short arc.  I was running at various amps from 55 up to 85 on DC+ and AC with no appreciable difference.  Lots of porosity on the surface, terrible slag... blech!  By contrast, the HD 7018 AC rods ran pretty nicely on both AC and DC+.  At the right amperage, the slag came off easily... but if my arc got a hair long, it was obvious because the slag was harder to remove.  All in all not a bad rod even on millscale and somewhat rusty 1/8" angle.Oh, and btw, this was all in the flat position just running beads.  I'd show them to you, but I didn't take pics.  Just wondering if anyone has had luck or similar experience with the HD 6011?Any recommendations for a better rod on this little machine? Thanks!
Reply:Originally Posted by RodJ Lots of porosity on the surface, terrible slag... blech!
Reply:Are you talking about the Lincoln brand of 6011 at HD? I think I heard someone grouse about the Lincoln 6011 - he preferred the old AIRCO Easy Arc, which I think is now the Murex rod (by Lincoln?). Here:  http://www.shopfloortalk.com/forums/...ad.php?t=33337"USMCPOP" First-born son: KIA  Iraq 1/26/05Syncrowave 250 w/ Coolmate 3Dialarc 250, Idealarc 250SP-175 +Firepower TIG 160S (gave the TA 161 STL to the son)Lincwelder AC180C (1952)Victor & Smith O/A torchesMiller spot welder
Reply:Fleetweld 37 is what they sell ,should run DC- on sheet metal or AC .
Reply:Fleetweld 180 is 6011.  Fleetweld 37 is 6013.  HD has both."USMCPOP" First-born son: KIA  Iraq 1/26/05Syncrowave 250 w/ Coolmate 3Dialarc 250, Idealarc 250SP-175 +Firepower TIG 160S (gave the TA 161 STL to the son)Lincwelder AC180C (1952)Victor & Smith O/A torchesMiller spot welder
Reply:Thanks all.  I'll run some more beads and take photos both on 11 ga and 3/16 at various settings.DSW, I'm familiar with the 6010/11 whip rods from CC courses I took. They didn't really have us use 7018 much.  It was all 6010 / 6011 till we had it flat, horizontal, vert and overhead.  That was several 8 week evening classes some years back, not the real degree classes, so I admit I was never pipeline quality LOL  But I did start approaching "serviceable" and "non-butt-ugly" at times.  These little 6011 rods though are causing me grief.  I really appreciate your help and read a lot of your posts critiquing and offering advice to others. A lot of us would be lost without it. Btw, the rods are Lincoln 180's which is their 6011 which they say to run on DC+ or AC... the other rods are "Lincoln 7018AC" and don't stick.
Reply:I struggle with 6011's, but working on ole rusty junk like I do then they are certainly a necessary rod for me to have on hand.  I by far like Hobart 6011 (335A) best when it comes to 6011's.  The Hobart's will run well on AC or (DC electrode +) equally well. I have also run some US Forge 6011 (Messer).  They dig more aggressively than the Hobart's, but I would not necessarily say they are easy to run.  My Miller Thunderbolt will only run them on AC.  The Thunderbolt will not run them on DC at all which I admit is quite odd.  My Everlast PA300 will run them on DC though no problem, but again I would not say those US Forge 6011's are easy to run.Have not bought any Lincoln 6011's in years and have not tried them at all on either of my current stick welders.  Did try em on my old Lincoln AC225 which was an AC only machine (sold several years ago)  and could never weld worth spit on that machine with Lincoln 6011's.  It ran the Hobart 6011's just fine though.Lastly, until you get your skills dialed in on running 6011's again, then I find it is much easier to use 1/8" diameter 6011 compared to 3/32" rod diameter 6011.  Less rod flex and a little more leeway tolerance with the user maintaining the proper rod to work arc gap with the 1/8 over the 3/32.  Course if you welding thinner stuff then you may need the 3/32 but it is harder for me to run 3/32 6011compared to 1/8 6011 as more skill is required to maintain that proper rod gap (proper rod gap with 6011 is usually half whatever the rod diameter is).Last edited by rankrank1; 12-14-2014 at 01:45 PM.
Reply:6011s are the wrong rod for the job.Try 6013 or 7014.I have welded exhaust pipe with 308 stainless,Wouldnt try it with 6011.
Reply:the problem may be the machine. you should be abe to get close with tapped settings.. i can use 3/32 6011 all day on 1/8 steel ...are you whipping or making circles? cold definitely wont work..if its too hot circles may let you move fast and  deposit some bead without burning through..
Reply:I bought a box a few months back at HD. THEY were crap. Seemed like really old stock, they were gray in color. Wouldn't strike an arc for crap. Took the unused portion back. Bought some fresh ones at the LWS and it was night and day.
Reply:just the words " home depot" spells trouble.    When I'm speaking w/ a potential customer about making something, if they so much as utter the words "home depot", i usually try to politely end the talks, and say goodbye
Reply:Originally Posted by 123weldjust the words " home depot" spells trouble.    When I'm speaking w/ a potential customer about making something, if they so much as utter the words "home depot", i usually try to politely end the talks, and say goodbye
Reply:Try dipping them in water and wringing them out or wiping them off. They may have dried out too much. 6010/6011 need about 5% moisture in the coating. If they still don't weld properly, take them back.