Need help with starting a bead with with AC-225

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Having trouble getting the puddle to fuse near the start of the bead on a fillet weld.  Running 75 amps on 7014 3/32.  Tried holding longer but then the finished weld is too large in that area.  Tried running 90 amps but then it's too hot at the end of the weld.  Went back to 75 amps and tried long arcing for a few second at the start to get some heat going.  This seems to be better but I'm looking for other techniques or suggestions.
Reply:I would start in the middle of the amp range (90 amps?), and be sure you have very clean metal to start with. Also, 7014 is a contact rod. If you are not lightly dragging the tip of the flux on the metal, then you are in fact long arcing it. I find that I always tend to move to fast with 7014, so slow down a bit too. I usually do a couple of circles to establish the starting point of my bead, ala Steve BleileMiller Multimatic 255
Reply:Lincoln lists the AC range for that rod at 80-100.  What thickness of metal?  Is this practice coupons or a large project?Fillet welds generally run better with higher amps than flat welds.Up the amps to your next tap (90) and stick that 7014 rod in with both sides of the flux lightly dragging.Adjust travel speed as the metal heats up.  If it's too thin, stop and finish after a minute or so - or use a back-step technique.Good luck Dave J.Last edited by MinnesotaDave; 09-01-2013 at 11:01 AM.Dave J.Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~ Syncro 350Invertec v250-sThermal Arc 161 and 300MM210DialarcTried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Reply:1/4 inch plate to a tube with maybe 1/8 inch wall.  This is a pic of a better one but about 1/4 of them I had to grind out and re-weld.As always, thanks to all for help and comments! Attached Images
Reply:90 amps should not be an issue for that project.  You may be moving too slow if heat was an issue - the bead looks pretty wide for 3/32 rod (from the picture anyway). This is a good reminder to dial in settings and technique on scrap before welding on the project.  Even if dialing in takes you an hour, at least you won't be grinding and re-welding btw - Are you making steps on a tree?Dave J.Dave J.Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~ Syncro 350Invertec v250-sThermal Arc 161 and 300MM210DialarcTried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Reply:I ran two practice beads and both came out fine so I plowed ahead :-(  I'll try some like that with the 90 amps and make sure to keep the arc close and speed up.It's a close up of my latest hammerschlagen stand.  Thanks for your help!http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=298561 Attached Images
Reply:Originally Posted by burnt09 I am not sure I canexplain it properly, but sometimes I sort of start the arc right at/off  the edgeand bring it onto the joint.
Reply:Here's 7014 3/32 at 90 amps.  Tried to keep arc short.  There's a restart about 2/3 the way across.Thanks for the help!
Reply:Try filling in the crater before you break off.
Reply:I held for a second on the one above but it just seemed to make it wider?  The one below I kept the arc as short as possible so it was easier to hold at the end.  The pic below is a fillet on a shelf bracket run with 7014 3/32 90 amps on 3/16 steel.  The shiny looks is a clear coat.  Thanks again to all for the help!