Wellsaw model 600 bandsaw

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I've been looking in the local craigs list in search of a decent metal bandsaw and saw a listing a few weeks ago under the business section  with a picture of some welding accesories welding table, metal storage rack and the bandsaw.No description or price so I email the person and we made plans to meet this morning so after a 2.5 hr drive we load the saw onto my trailer and I'm back on the road heading home with my new old saw.After unloading it off the trailer luckly (I didn't need my tractor )  since it had wheel casters on each leg and was able to wheel it down the trailer ramp.It looks to be in good shape other than needing a need blade and I noticed the auto shut-off doesn't stop the blade after the cut is finished.The older gentleman I got it from said he didn't use it much and just sat in his garage.I've seen a few posts about the older wellsaw and wondered if anyone knows the correct blade length and width I was able to get some info from the wellsaw support page and for my serial # 10956 looks like I need a 98 1/2 x 5/8 x 032 but that seems like and odd size would the lenox 3/4 X 035 inch bi metal blade work also would a 98 inch blade work?I cut a few pieces of 3/8" 6 inch flat plate and even with the old blade it still did a very good job.Now I can give my makita cold saw a break and use the band saw for the heavy stuff. Here's a few pictures Attached Images
Reply:Nice looking saw]Lincoln PT 225 Tig
Reply:The best part about that saw is it was first designed in 1937 and guess what, they still build the same saw.  You can still get every part for it from wellsaw.  I have a smaller 58B wellsaw from 1968.  The 2008 parts I order for it fit right on.Lincoln 300 Vantage 2008300 Commander 1999SA250 1999SA200 1968Miller Syncrowave 200XMT350MPA/S-52E/xr-15Xtreme 12vs Millermatic 251 w/30A  Millermatic 251 Dialarc 250 Hypertherm 1250 GEKA & Bantom Ironwokers
Reply:Looks like a well-built saw.America Needs AMERICA'S Oil!!!"Global warming is the greatest scam in history ...There is no run away climate change. The impact of humans on climate is not catastrophic. Our planet is not in peril."--John Coleman, Founder of The Weather Channel
Reply:To solve the not cutting off problem, you could try the bolt trick...  drill and tap a small hole for a bolt and nut with lock washer on the horizontal part of the cutoff switch at the front of the saw (the piece the left-hand wheel lands on when the cut is finished, pushes the rod through the bottom of the saw, actuates the switch in the back...) put the nut on the bolt, then the washer, then thread it into the hole - set the height of the bolt head to just clip the bottom of the wheel housing at rest, and tighten the nut and lock washer against the original cutoff tab -  it makes a sort of adjustable depth stop for the saw.  I've got one on mine, I'll try to get a picture if this doesn't make any sense.
Reply:1-blade width 5/8" ??......sounds highly odd. Measure the existing blade's width2-Total length 98.5.......you've got a whole bunch of adjustment for blade length on that sawvia the tensioner knob.3-I've had a 1938 Wells 9 x12 in my shop, for 21 years and it came with the shop.                                       71 years old!There's some tricks, tips, etc. on making these live and cut accurately---just likeany other saw.4-I'll check tomorrow on the blade length I order for it.5-The WellsSaw with its pinion gear drive and rigid 'C' frame construction, is one of the longest lasting machine tools--I've ever seen. There's still thousands of these things cutting---after 40+ years.http://weldingweb.com/attachment.php...1&d=1259815006 Attached ImagesBlackbird
Reply:LMSyrus if you could post a picture of the saw cut-off bolt & washer adjustment stop I'd appreciate the help.....I've removed the power switch cover and took a quick look inside and I can see the shut-off switch rod that comes into the electrical box but it doesn't make contact with anything.I'll take it apart when i get some free time and get a better look at the electrical switch looks like its made by culter hammer.I contacted wellsaw support and sent them a picture of the electrical power switch & cut-off and their suppose to get back with me if they can find a replacement part.dave powelson nice to know these old saws are still in use today.......According to wellsaw my saw was manufactured in 1968,  I've checked the model 600 manual on the wellsaw support page and the blade size is correct 98 1/2 x 5/8 x 032  I measured the blade that came with saw and it's 3/4 width so it looks like the 3/4" x 035 will work also.I've ordered a couple different blades to try out the mk morse bi-metal matrix  and the lenox rx+  both 98 1/2 " x 5/8 x 032  I've also got new roller guide bearings and a blade brush to installed when I get the new blade.
Reply:Originally Posted by mcckkeydave powelson nice to know these old saws are still in use today.......According to wellsaw my saw was manufactured in 1968,  I've checked the model 600 manual on the wellsaw support page and the blade size is correct 98 1/2 x 5/8 x 032  I measured the blade that came with saw and it's 3/4 width so it looks like the 3/4" x 035 will work also.I've ordered a couple different blades to try out the mk morse bi-metal matrix  and the lenox rx+  both 98 1/2 " x 5/8 x 032  I've also got new roller guide bearings and a blade brush to installed when I get the new blade.
Reply:Ok - sorry the pictures took so long.  The first one is just the side of the little right-angle stop switch.  The second is the best picture I could get of the inside of the electrical box.  The rod doesn't actually connect to anything, I think it's just positioned to push the contactors off the terminals when the saw bottoms out.  The third picture is the bolt addition to the stop switch, showing how you can adjust how far down the saw goes before cutting the power. This was the initial problem with my saw, not the part in the electrical box.  The upper bearings were so worn that the blade rode in a groove, and was positioned too high relative to the wheels and frame to complete a cut before the wheel housing tripped the switch off.  The bolt thing allows this timing to be altered.    Hope these help. Attached Images
Reply:LMSyrus thanks for taking the time to post the pictures I understand now.I think I found the automatic stop problem it looks like the stop rod had broken where it's suppose to  engage the contacts in the switch.I'll try to find a replacement rod that I can heat up and bend into shape.The electrical on/off power switch is in better shape then I thought the off button was sticking and hard to engage but after cleaning the contacts it's working good and one less thing I have to replace.I replaced the roller guide bearings and installed the new morse 5/8 x .032 x 98" 1/2  bi-metal blade and blade brushes fired the saw up and made a few test cuts on some 1 x 16 ga tubing everything works and nice straight cuts.