New to Tig, need help

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I just got a Lincoln Precision 225 and am having a hard time getting it to start a bead on 1/8" 6061. I am using 3/32 2% Thoriate tungsten, 3/32" 4043 filler rod and 100% argon. I have had it up to 175 amps and can't even get the aluminum to start to melt. I have also wire brushed with a stainless brush and cleaned with acetone. Im getting frustrated and don't know what else to try. How many amps should its start to melt at? Ive read about 125. Any suggestions? Thanks
Reply:125 amps would be for steel. With alum, generic rule of thumb is 1 amp per .001" plus at least 20% to get the puddle going fast. On 1/8" alum we have the students set the machines for 150 amps AC minimum. When they have trouble, I'll often bump them up to 165 amps.  I use 180-200 amps AC because I can back down off the pedal  faster, but my puddle forms almost instantly vs the students having to wait a short bit.Keep in mind alum is a great heat sink. You can't creep up on your amperage like you can with steel. Floor the pedal and max out your amps to get the puddle to form NOW, then back down and move fast, to out run the heat build up in the material..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Does everything else seem like I have the right set up other than amps?
Reply:Tungsten may be a bit small. I like to use Lanthanated or ceriated because they hold up to higher amps better. My amperage falls some where between 3/32" and 1/8" tungstens. Which I use depends many times on what I'm doing. 1/8" holds a point a bit better and doesn't ball as much. 3/32" gives me more control, but I have to regrind more often. I'm not a big fan of completely balled tungstens. I just don't get as much fine control as I'd prefer, though at the tech school we use 1/8" pure with a ball for 1/8" alum. At the point you are at, I doubt any of this makes a huge difference. You'll probably foul the tungsten before you'd loose a point or whatever and need to regrind anyways.Filler size looks right. Filler type, either 4043 or 5356. At your point either will work just as good..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:I think a Precision TIG 225 is a transformer machine and you wouldn't normally use thoriated tungsten's for aluminum. You can use pure, zirconiated or one of the newer tungsten's but you have a ball on the tungsten. Inverter machines use a pointed tungsten and can use thoriated tungsten's on aluminum. Inverters change everything you thought you knew about aluminum welding and if you're a newbie it's confusing as hell. It's hard to keep track even you aren't new to welding. Do you have it on AC with continuous High frequency?
Reply:That is my current settings that I was trying to use with the amps on 125. Also, when you ground out the tungsten on the aluminum, is is junk or can you cut off the end and reuse it?
Reply:If your piece is directly on the table you are trying to heat the table at the same time...Even 1/8" of space between the two will have a major difference in how long it takes to get hot...It will be much much faster so get ready.......zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:Did you attach the ground clamp?Is this a new machine? If there is a problem it can be fixed under warranty. Call your local Linclone LWS for advise.Weld like a "WELDOR", not a wel-"DERR" MillerDynasty700DX,Dynasty350DX4ea,Dynasty200DX,Li  ncolnSW200-2ea.,MillerMatic350P,MillerMatic200w/spoolgun,MKCobraMig260,Lincoln SP-170T,PlasmaCam/Hypertherm1250,HFProTig2ea,MigMax1ea.
Reply:Originally Posted by Cpope84I just got a Lincoln Precision 225 and am having a hard time getting it to start a bead on 1/8" 6061. I am using 3/32 2% Thoriate tungsten, 3/32" 4043 filler rod and 100% argon. I have had it up to 175 amps and can't even get the aluminum to start to melt. I have also wire brushed with a stainless brush and cleaned with acetone. Im getting frustrated and don't know what else to try. How many amps should its start to melt at? Ive read about 125. Any suggestions? Thanks
Reply:How many seconds are you holding it trying to get a puddle going? Does it work on DC!AL is a crazy heat sink somtimes you gota be patient
Reply:I have the pieces elevated also had the ground clamp attached. I have been able to make a bead on some scrap aluminum that I had laying around, not sure of the compound. Just puzzled why I can't get it to work. When I turn the outage to 175, the breaker kicks after 10 or 15 sec so today I am installing heavier wire and 60 amp breaker. I also ordered pure tungsten to try that out.
Reply:I have held the pedal wide open for 30 seconds on 125 and no puddle.
Reply:Originally Posted by Cpope84I have held the pedal wide open for 30 seconds on 125 and no puddle.
Reply:That's pure sucks. I've been using 1.5 lanthanated it's gold. Ya sounds like you got a problem. Does the area look like bird crap and black when you let off?
Reply:Pure tungsten is for the old non squarewave tigs, like those made in the 80's. You can pickup 2% lanthanated(blue) or E3(purple) for alum and they do ok for steel as well. Honestly Red works just fine but will splinter and spit more. However it does start very well because of the splintering. Can you take the balance off of auto and see if that helps?Weld like a "WELDOR", not a wel-"DERR" MillerDynasty700DX,Dynasty350DX4ea,Dynasty200DX,Li  ncolnSW200-2ea.,MillerMatic350P,MillerMatic200w/spoolgun,MKCobraMig260,Lincoln SP-170T,PlasmaCam/Hypertherm1250,HFProTig2ea,MigMax1ea.
Reply:On a small piece like 6x6 x1/8 30 seconds should be enough but if its a big piece of AL it might not
Reply:I am about to put in heavier wire and breaker and will try the higher amps and go from there. I'll get some blue and purple tungstens also and give it a try. Thanks for help.
Reply:After I get rewired and still have issues, ill post a pic of what it looks like after holding the pedal wide open.
Reply:Get the 1/8 tungsten
Reply:Originally Posted by Cpope84I have the pieces elevated also had the ground clamp attached. I have been able to make a bead on some scrap aluminum that I had laying around, not sure of the compound. Just puzzled why I can't get it to work. When I turn the outage to 175, the breaker kicks after 10 or 15 sec so today I am installing heavier wire and 60 amp breaker. I also ordered pure tungsten to try that out.
Reply:I finally got it going. Was just lacking juice. Now I just need to get consistent with it. What makes the filler rod just ball up and make a mess instead of liquify into the weld. How do I prevent it? Also, with amps around 200, it will just melt the tungsten before I even get started, whats the issue there? Thanks.
Reply:Originally Posted by Cpope84I finally got it going. Was just lacking juice. Now I just need to get consistent with it. What makes the filler rod just ball up and make a mess instead of liquify into the weld. How do I prevent it? Also, with amps around 200, it will just melt the tungsten before I even get started, whats the issue there? Thanks.
Reply:Thanks Dave, I am very new at this. Just need to know the tips and tricks to get me going. I see you are from Bemidji. I was just up in your neighborhood working and went spearing with some friends on lake winni and got a 37" northern. I work in Hibbing/Duluth at least a couple of times a year.
Reply:Originally Posted by Cpope84Thanks Dave, I am very new at this. Just need to know the tips and tricks to get me going. I see you are from Bemidji. I was just up in your neighborhood working and went spearing with some friends on lake winni and got a 37" northern. I work in Hibbing/Duluth at least a couple of times a year.
Reply:I may take you up on that. I need all of the help that I can get. ThanksFor the balance, do you think auto works pretty good or should shy away from it. Where does the pulse frequency come in handy?
Reply:My machine is a 1963 Airco - no balance control of any kind.But I'd try yours manually and see if you can dial it in.Pulse mostly for thin steel I have been told - but I don't have that either - not really necessary but might be cool to have Dave J.Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~ Syncro 350Invertec v250-sThermal Arc 161 and 300MM210DialarcTried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.