Quick Connections On HF-251D-1

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My goal was to be able to change out tig torches quickly so I decided to try to utilize quick connections on the power, argon and coolant lines. Well now I need some help to try and figure out how to make this possible. I tried to test it out and it doesn't work. I imagine now after I installed everything I need to utilize the power cable adapter somehow or is there another way I can do this? Thank You
Reply:Without more context in the pic its a little hard to follow - but did you hook your tig power cable to the end of that red water line?Dave J.Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~ Syncro 350Invertec v250-sThermal Arc 161 and 300MM210DialarcTried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Reply:Ya the black weld craft line is coming off the water cooler to the red line.
Reply:Before I had the power cable from the tig torch going to the power cable adapter and at the other end of the power adapter I hooked up the coolant line. Now the power cable from the tig torch is going to that dinse style connection and the red line is going to the black coolant line from the water cooler. I thought a power cable adapter was basically like a coupler so the only difference in the new set up is I'm not using the power cable adapter, instead I have the red line coming from the tig torch connected to the black weld craft line using a coupler and quick disconnects.
Reply:Makes sense to me - not sure why that wouldn't work What specifically doesn't work?  No power or the water doesn't flow?Dave J.Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~ Syncro 350Invertec v250-sThermal Arc 161 and 300MM210DialarcTried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Reply:No arc ignition. So I wasn't sure if I did something wrong or how important the power cable adapter actually is?
Reply:No HF if I try to scratch start it will act like it wants to works for a second basically just sparks and try's to stick the tungsten.
Reply:That power cable adapter just did the same job as the dinse adapter you replaced it with.I'm assuming it did work before you changed it over though.Any chance you put one of the lines in the wrong place?  Like accidentally switched the power cable and return water line from the torch?(not sure if that's actually possible, just wondering)Dave J.Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~ Syncro 350Invertec v250-sThermal Arc 161 and 300MM210DialarcTried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Reply:Take a pic where we can see where things are going.Dave J.Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~ Syncro 350Invertec v250-sThermal Arc 161 and 300MM210DialarcTried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Reply:Ok, I'll be post another picture in a few minutes. I just have a head ache so I figured I would ask on here. And yes before it worked great.
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Reply:The power cable nut on my tig torch is bigger than the other water and gas nut so I couldn't accidentally switch them.
Reply:Originally Posted by royalblue302The power cable nut on my tig torch is bigger than the other water and gas nut so I couldn't accidentally switch them.
Reply:Did you possibly hit the remote switch when hooking everything up? Take a close look at the panel and make sure. It's easy to do.I didn't see a pedal, so I'm guessing you may be running directly off whatever you have it connected to. If the remote switch is activated and no remote is connected, you'll get nothing in most cases. What exactly do you have it connected to? Even with a pedal connected, the switch still needs to be set to panel if you do not have the HF box connected to a remote supported machine. Obviously if you had a pedal connected to it before, you already know this. You should be getting continuity to the torch and ground, you can test it with a meter, just SHUT THE HF OFF before doing so. Remove the torch and check it with a meter. Sometimes, you get a dud. I'm assuming the torch is new, or did you just connect it to the new Miller end? Check it anyways.If you have solid connections, and the switch didn't get bumped, it should work OK. Since you're not even getting current at the tungsten, I would look at the torch and lead back to the box itself as suspect, especially considering the HF unit worked before and you haven't changed anything on the welder end of it. The water routing means nothing, and all the power block you had previously connected with the other torch does is allow coolant to flow thru the torch leads while connected to a traditional stud type terminal.I would start at the torch. Check continuity at the torch itself, between lead connections and head, then from head to leads, back to the HF box. You may not be getting a solid connection at the quick connects you installed. I was thinking at first the torch you put on it is different, but after reading your post again and looking at the pix, it could be the same one. Hard to tell. If you put a different one on it, definitely check it.Start at the top and work your way back, just to eliminate anything suspect. Then mess with the QC connections. Could be they're not making a clean connection.That's where I would startIMHO of courseExpert Garage Hack....https://www.facebook.com/steven.webber.948