What would be the easiest way to cut this apart and make it bolt back together.

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Ok so this is something I recently built and intend to sell.  Have some guys on another forum interested in buying it.  It's a stand that a miata seat bolts directly to turning your extra seat into a practical mancave or garage chair.  The problem is that with it's size shipping costs too much.  If I cut all four legs in half shipping will be reduced by 2/3 and that is satisfactory.  But they need to bolt back together.  I think I know how I want to do it.  But just curious as to any ideas you might have.  The legs are 14 gauge 3/4" tubing.  The four braces are 1/2" tubing.
Reply:If I was making this to sell and ship, I'd do a redesign. I'd weld all thread or bolts in the cross members and drill holes thru where the meet the main frames. That way it would all pack flat for shipping.Option 2 would be to add tabs to each end and use screws or bolts there instead of all thread.Last option #3, would be to split the thing in the center and make some sort of inner and outer tubes that side inside the large tube and outside the smaller ones. I'd weld one side, and then screw or bolt the other. This would make for a bigger package than if you broke it down though..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Just cut and fit all of the pieces and put them in a sch 80 pvc tube and let him deal with the welding part. It's not an airplane engine. The dork at the local muffler ship can glue it together with a mig in five minutes.Bubble gumTooth pixDuct tapeBlack glueGBMF hammerScrew gun --bad battery (see above)
Reply:Yeah but like DSW was saying that I wasn't clear about.  I'm intending to build and sell these.  As a consumer product.  Just hoping to sell a few on another forum for fun.  The idea is bolt this onto your spare seat and you have a practical chair for around the garage or the house.  Also I'm pretty dead set on cutting the legs in half as my shipping reduction method.  Just not exactly dead set on how I will have it bolt back together. I was thinking maybe the inner pipe couple thing you were saying and have it bolt back together.  Problem there is my tubes are loose fitting inside of each other. Reason I want to cut it at the legs is because if you leave half the legs off it sits real low to the ground and would make for a great gaming chair.  It still retains full recline functionality.  I intend to put on a cup holder as well.  There will be a raw steel version and a painted with felt foot pads version.
Reply:Front and rear pieces welded up separately and drilled for connector barsThe two bottom bars need the ends cut to match the angles and drilled to bolt into the front and back units.The top connecting bar simply could have a piece of flat bar making a T on both ends, welded to the and cross bar and bolted in.  Make your cuts accurate on the angles, and all of this should only take a little more time to put together.Measure you angles from your prototype, and cut material for two or three at the same time and it should fly together.
Reply:cut small angles the width of your square tubing and drill a hole in each leg. drill holes in your seat frame so it can be bolted together at each joint. for the joints that aren't 90 deg make an angle to suit out of flat plate and drill them the same way. now your seat can be shipped in kd condition and bolted on delivery.i.u.o.e. # 15queens, ny and sunny fla
Reply:angle iron 3/4 x 3/4 x 1/8 on each ends of tubings linking front and rear legs.  2 hole each self tap screws  if tubings are thicker than 0.100 in. otherwise use 1/4 bolts.  Personnaly i would consider re-design with  bended frame and less parts to cut and weld but considering the potential sales, you are the one who knows best , good luck.
Reply:Originally Posted by snowbirdangle iron 3/4 x 3/4 x 1/8 on each ends of tubings linking front and rear legs.  2 hole each self tap screws  if tubings are thicker than 0.100 in. otherwise use 1/4 bolts.  Personnaly i would consider re-design with  bended frame and less parts to cut and weld but considering the potential sales, you are the one who knows best , good luck.
Reply:Many options. Like snowbird said using angle. It may be easier to weld flat stock with holes to the horizontals to match angle slope and bolt together.Dozen bolts, washers, and nuts. Or you could sell it as a ''weldable kit'' too.
Reply:Snowbird is on the right track but you're better off with equal size tube and "ears" with through bolts for strength. Let the buyer get their own bolts.Think > in miniatureBubble gumTooth pixDuct tapeBlack glueGBMF hammerScrew gun --bad battery (see above)
Reply:You could weld one end so only one bolt is needed. The next thing is figuring which shipping box will work ( UPS or USPS)Bubble gumTooth pixDuct tapeBlack glueGBMF hammerScrew gun --bad battery (see above)
Reply:Make a new one and call it a day. Jeesh! How much easier can it get. I hate being bi-polar it's awsomeMy Heroes Have Always Been Cowboys
Reply:You're on a Miata forum? Might have to revoke your Welding Web membership.:}Ed Conleyhttp://www.screamingbroccoli.com/MM252MM211 (Sold)Passport Plus & Spool gunLincoln SP135 Plus- (Gone to a good home)Klutch 120v Plasma cutterSO 2020 benderBeer in the fridge
Reply:Originally Posted by Broccoli1You're on a Miata forum? Might have to revoke your Welding Web membership.:}
Reply:While you have this one and you want to start production, make a jig using this one as the template.  Make sure it will hold the front and rear pieces in place, cut out the three connecting links (make sure you made the jig so it will put them back in place where they need to be.  Weld plates onto them and drill them, put them back in your jig, use the plates to mark where you drill the front and rear pieces.  Bolt it up to make sure you're happy with fit and you feel it's structurally sound.  Unbolt and ship.  When you sell another one you have a jig to whip one up.
Reply:I would cut the cross bars (front to back), flush at the front and back pieces.  weld tabs on each end of the cross bars and drill them for bolts.  When the guy gets the flat-pack seat base, he can just bolt it together.KevKevin / Machine_Punk from The Aerodrome Studio - Lincoln PowerMIG 210 MP - Meco N Midget w/custom welding station - Vintage Victor 100Current Projects: The Aerodrome Studio
Reply:I'd weld all thread or bolts in the cross members and drill holes thru where the meet the main frames.
Reply:I'm with those who suggest making the front-to-back tubes removable.The frames and connectors would knock down and nest to ship at picture frame rates.Connect via cross-bolt, flange, tube-N-socket, ears, whatever.Send the hardware too, don't make the customer shop for anything else.Last edited by denrep; 12-16-2013 at 12:05 AM.
Reply:Originally Posted by AntiblingWhile you have this one and you want to start production, make a jig using this one as the template. ....When you sell another one you have a jig to whip one up.
Reply:Here is the solution I came up with.  It seemed less labor intensive than the welding on angle idea.  And the idea with the picture of the brackets, I didn't understand exactly what you were saying.  I replaced the 14ga 3/4" square tubing with 11ga 3/4" square tube for the leg.  That left just over a half inch left in the inside of the tube.  Then with a couple of plug welds, nuts and bolts, I was able to use the 1/2" square tubing to make the legs couple back together.  This cut shipping from Northern Indiana to 90210 from the 60-65 dollar range to the 25-30 dollar range.I'm a horrible painter btw.  Will have that taken care of shortly though.