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I found a motor for 114$ I think and the pro con pump was like 160$. I'm sure I can get a better deal! Should i get 1/3 hp or 1/4 or 1/2 hp? Anyone know?thanksLast edited by motolife313; 03-10-2015 at 10:59 PM.
Reply:I bought a new-old-stock complete carbonator unit w/tank for $125 shipped.Found it on ebay.Dave J.Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~ Syncro 350Invertec v250-sThermal Arc 161 and 300MM210DialarcTried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Reply:I've bought procon pumps on eBay for under $50/ea. you may not always end up with one that puts out the correct pressure, but if you buy one with an adjustment, you can get it in the ballpark. I know it's supposed to be a but I've done it multiple times and have never had any issues with one.Also keep in mind, if you're going to build an actual cooler, you'll need a radiator and fan. Carbonator motors are NOT double shafted. If you're going to allow for a large enough tank to hold volume to absorb the heat, you'll be ok. If not, that's when you go with a fan and small radiator.If you need a double shafted motor, I have a local supplier that I deal with that can get an OEM spec replacement for a very reasonable price.Expert Garage Hack....https://www.facebook.com/steven.webber.948
Reply:You can use an electric fan from a computerMiller Multimatic 255
Reply:Procon distributor and repair center Edco Distributing has Series 1 pumps brand new for $95: http://www.edcodistributing.com/pumppricing.phpYou can ask them to include the proper pressure spring for the pump to get the pressure range you need.
Reply:Originally Posted by 7A749I've bought procon pumps on eBay for under $50/ea. you may not always end up with one that puts out the correct pressure, but if you buy one with an adjustment, you can get it in the ballpark. I know it's supposed to be a but I've done it multiple times and have never had any issues with one.Also keep in mind, if you're going to build an actual cooler, you'll need a radiator and fan. Carbonator motors are NOT double shafted. If you're going to allow for a large enough tank to hold volume to absorb the heat, you'll be ok. If not, that's when you go with a fan and small radiator.If you need a double shafted motor, I have a local supplier that I deal with that can get an OEM spec replacement for a very reasonable price.
Reply:Thanks guys! I have a 3 gallon 1/8 AL tank so I really don't think I need the fan on the end of the motor I think that will be loud too. I'm going to run a heat exchanger and have a electric fan on it with just a on off switch or one that turns on by itself at like 140 degrees.
Reply:does this mean it 250 gph and 99psi? Is that way to much volume or does it not matter. I think I'll only use under 1 gpm. What's wrong with turning down the pressure on the pump?its hard to tell but it says 250 to the right of the arrow pointing up
Reply:I really think I would rather just get new and spend a couple extra bucks. More like 75$ but I wouldn't have to ever worry about it. Is 1/3 hp plenty. Could I go with 1/4 hp?ill check amazon.
Reply:Originally Posted by shovelonThis and Amazon has matched sets of pump and motor for a reasonable price. I have had a hard time finding pump/motor/fan combos though. This one has an excellent hard to find 1/hp motor.http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-2-HP-GE-Mo...item51ccec4ac5
Reply:this one is cheap. It says its 55psi but not sure of the flow rate per hour
Reply:Yeah, that should work no sweat.Price is right too.Expert Garage Hack....https://www.facebook.com/steven.webber.948
Reply:If its only 1 gpm that's should be enough right?
Reply:Not completely sure on the specs at the moment.Expert Garage Hack....https://www.facebook.com/steven.webber.948
Reply:You would be better served by getting the integral screen on the side if you are just going to buy the pump. Amazon has new ones for $62 and change. http://www.amazon.com/Procon-111A060...T07YNJWD5PSNYW As far as the pressure rating, that is the preset from the factory. You can adjust to suit by the screw on the side to flow some 1 to 1.5 quarts per minute through the torch, not just a hose.Last edited by shovelon; 03-11-2015 at 03:14 PM.Weld like a "WELDOR", not a wel-"DERR" MillerDynasty700DX,Dynasty350DX4ea,Dynasty200DX,Li ncolnSW200-2ea.,MillerMatic350P,MillerMatic200w/spoolgun,MKCobraMig260,Lincoln SP-170T,PlasmaCam/Hypertherm1250,HFProTig2ea,MigMax1ea.
Reply:That one is 151-250 psi. Not sure how much you can turn it down?think it can be turned down to 50psi?Last edited by motolife313; 03-11-2015 at 04:16 PM.
Reply:If in doubt on the particular model, call Procon for advice. My son did and they were helpful. They know what their pumps are used for."USMCPOP" First-born son: KIA Iraq 1/26/05Syncrowave 250 w/ Coolmate 3Dialarc 250, Idealarc 250SP-175 +Firepower TIG 160S (gave the TA 161 STL to the son)Lincwelder AC180C (1952)Victor & Smith O/A torchesMiller spot welder
Reply:I found a refurb procon series one on ebay set to 60 psi for 60$, I found a half horse 48y frame motor on ebay for 60$. All you need is a 5$ collar (off ebay) and your good for the motor/pump. I also bought a (locally) 5 gallon Cornelius keg that im using for the reservoir. I am NOT using a radiator or fan. I feel 5 gallons is enough to not need to worry. I will post pics as soon as I get the tank plumbed up. Right now im using a 3 gallon bucket that is doing just fine! I should mention I am using a 220 volt motor that plugs directly to my welder. So im into it 160$ so far. A lot better than buying one premade!
Reply:http://www.ebay.com/itm/Emerson-25-H...item259f43feafhttp://www.ebay.com/itm/Procon-Pump-...item43d8175d3d the people selling the pump will set the right pressure for you. That's how they did mine. I haven't checked how much flow per minute. Whatever the flow is seems to work great that they set.http://www.ebay.com/itm/170593930041...%3AMEBIDX%3AIThttp://www.ebay.com/itm/CORNELIUS-KE...item25a195d6c5My keg is like this.good luck.
Reply:Sounds like a nice setup shaynoak. I orderd one from the place mr.moose recommended it was 88$ plus 15$ and a 2 week minumum wait. So I took it back and I think I'm just gona order the one off eBay for 53$ that's in post #11. I'll call procon before I order this time. Those kinds with out the acorn nut that angle down to the side I think you can set the pressure yourself. Not sure how I would lower the psi tho?
Reply:Originally Posted by shaynoakhttp://www.ebay.com/itm/Emerson-25-H...item259f43feafhttp://www.ebay.com/itm/Procon-Pump-...item43d8175d3d the people selling the pump will set the right pressure for you. That's how they did mine. I haven't checked how much flow per minute. Whatever the flow is seems to work great that they set.http://www.ebay.com/itm/170593930041...%3AMEBIDX%3AIThttp://www.ebay.com/itm/CORNELIUS-KE...item25a195d6c5My keg is like this.good luck.
Reply:when I ordered my pump from those people I told them it was for a tig cooler, they saud they set it at 60 psi. I will do a flow per minute later when I have time. It is plenty of flow though. fwiw, the people I ordered the pump from sent it in a timely fashion, good ebayers!
Reply:Ok thanks I heard you shouldn't go much over 45psi tho. You bought that same one? Have you been using it?
Reply:I bought all of my Procon Pumps and matching drive motors and couplings on eBay. They are on there all of the time. Some are new and some are used but generally there are good prices. Most of them are suitable for welding coolers. The ones I have put out 45-50 psi and work very nicely. I have a Home-built cooler and also a Bernard 2500. I replaced the motors on both with eBay buys. I paid about $40 apiece for the motors new and $30-$35 for the pumps but that was about ten years ago. This link shows the various types of Procon pumps.http://50.244.15.10/techlib/Procon/P...l_cat_D603.pdfMiller Millermatic 252Miller Syncrowave 200Liincoln AC-DC 225Victor O-A Set
Reply:Originally Posted by motolife313Ok thanks I heard you shouldn't go much over 45psi tho. You bought that same one? Have you been using it?Originally Posted by shaynoakyeah I have been using it. Like I said its just plumbed into a bucket until I get my new ck20 torch. the ebay seller I listed said they set it for 60 psi, which seems to work fine in the everlast 17 torch I have now. If I had to guess its a least a half gallon to gallon a minute. plenty enough to cool the torch I believe. I got to thinking, if anyone was really concerned with the no fan deal, you could find a tiny 220 electric fan and splice it into the cord for the motor. Kinda redneck but it would work.
Reply:Ok I will most likely buy the setup you posted shaynoak. I heard the guy that owns arczone.com say you should never run over 45psi. I just don't wanna break my torch!
Reply:Cool. Let us know when you get it. If you have questions let me know. I'm basically new at it but I might be able to help.
Reply:You think I can turn down the pressure on it or is 60psi about minumum?
Reply:I just rebuilt a Coolmate 1 and used a 100 GPH Procon pump. I did a lot of research on what pump to buy before purchasing but in the end had to make an educated guess. I also went against everyone's advice, which was to just back off the adjustment screw to get 50 psi output, and used a pressure gauge and needle valve on the output side to get the correct psi in the line side of the system. I was a little wary of just backing off the screw off because of how the Procon pump works. The Coolmate 1 was originally equipped with and Oberdorfer pump, which sends the excess water to the tank if it goes over the adjustment psi, but the Procon sends the water back to the input side of the pump when it goes over the psi adjustment. I read in a few places that continuously cycling the water back to the input side of the pump would reduce the service life of the pump. I used a four port fitting right off of the output side of the pump, one hole is the input, 180 degrees from that is the output to the torch, the third hole has a psi gauge, and the fourth hole is the needle valve that goes back to the tank. I backed off the needle valve and started the pump and just screwed it in until I got to 50 psi and then it's set. I did a test afterward, to see how much water was actually flowing through the torch, and the 100 GPH is a touch on the low side at 50 psi. I had to bump it up to 55 psi to get to 1 quart per minute which seems to be the standard recommendation for keeping the torch cool. If I were to do it over again I would buy a pump in the 120 GPH range.
Reply:I bought this one at the end of Feb. --http://www.ebay.com/itm/171692974350?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageNa me=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT -- Forgot to mention --$75 to my doorIt's a 100 GPH pump and a 1/4 horse motor -- as delivered from ebay it took 1 minute 43 seconds to fill a 1 gallon container from the bottom output on the tank -- the input to the tank had a huge restriction in it -- the hole was way small, designed that way, just under a 5/64th drill bit -- I drilled it out to 11/64ths to get some flow into the tankI'm still waiting on some fittings, but I'll do some real world testing on my new CK flexloc torch -- Can't really get an accurate working pressure without the whole system ready to runI did pull the check valve on the output side, replaced with a brass nipple -- I also installed a pressure gauge on the top of the tank, in that square block which is the high water shut off for the tankI took out the electrical panel, and direct wired the motor to run when plugged in -- High water shut off, and whatever that electrical gizmo on the output side of pump is are also outTank holds 2.5 gallons when filled completely -- all air bled out -- I do not plan on running any type of fan/radiator combo but could easily be installed between torch return and pump input I do plan on leaving the pump to pressurize the tank and then pulling water from the tank to the torch, with the return from torch going to input side of pump -- ISO B quick disconnect fittings are here, just waiting on the LH thread to 1/2 MPT adapters to get up and running for a real flow testAs it sits, with the modifications the tank does not pressurize with a 3/8 hose going from output of tank to input of pump -- and it shouldn't with no restrictions -- the torch will be the restrictionLast edited by Heavyopp; 03-13-2015 at 11:50 PM.
Reply:Originally Posted by burnsI just rebuilt a Coolmate 1 and used a 100 GPH Procon pump. I did a lot of research on what pump to buy before purchasing but in the end had to make an educated guess. I also went against everyone's advice, which was to just back off the adjustment screw to get 50 psi output, and used a pressure gauge and needle valve on the output side to get the correct psi in the line side of the system. I was a little wary of just backing off the screw off because of how the Procon pump works. The Coolmate 1 was originally equipped with and Oberdorfer pump, which sends the excess water to the tank if it goes over the adjustment psi, but the Procon sends the water back to the input side of the pump when it goes over the psi adjustment. I read in a few places that continuously cycling the water back to the input side of the pump would reduce the service life of the pump. I used a four port fitting right off of the output side of the pump, one hole is the input, 180 degrees from that is the output to the torch, the third hole has a psi gauge, and the fourth hole is the needle valve that goes back to the tank. I backed off the needle valve and started the pump and just screwed it in until I got to 50 psi and then it's set. I did a test afterward, to see how much water was actually flowing through the torch, and the 100 GPH is a touch on the low side at 50 psi. I had to bump it up to 55 psi to get to 1 quart per minute which seems to be the standard recommendation for keeping the torch cool. If I were to do it over again I would buy a pump in the 120 GPH range.
Reply:Originally Posted by HeavyoppI bought this one at the end of Feb. --http://www.ebay.com/itm/171692974350?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageNa me=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AITIt's a 100 GPH pump and a 1/4 horse motor -- as delivered from ebay it took 1 minute 43 seconds to fill a 1 gallon container from the bottom output on the tank -- the input to the tank had a huge restriction in it -- the hole was way small, designed that way, just under a 5/64th drill bit -- I drilled it out to 11/64ths to get some flow into the tankI'm still waiting on some fittings, but I'll do some real world testing on my new CK flexloc torch -- Can't really get an accurate working pressure without the whole system ready to runI did pull the check valve on the output side, replaced with a brass nipple -- I also installed a pressure gauge on the top of the tank, in that square block which is the high water shut off for the tankI took out the electrical panel, and direct wired the motor to run when plugged in -- High water shut off, and whatever that electrical gizmo on the output side of pump is are also outTank holds 2.5 gallons when filled completely -- all air bled out -- I do not plan on running any type of fan/radiator combo but could easily be installed between torch return and pump input I do plan on leaving the pump to pressurize the tank and then pulling water from the tank to the torch, with the return from torch going to input side of pump -- ISO B quick disconnect fittings are here, just waiting on the LH thread to 1/2 MPT adapters to get up and running for a real flow testAs it sits, with the modifications the tank does not pressurize with a 3/8 hose going from output of tank to input of pump -- and it shouldn't with no restrictions -- the torch will be the restriction
Reply:I ordered the Procon pump from Grainger and their part number is #6XE83. I did a little bit of work on it today and cut the coolant with about a cup of water and it flowed a little over 1qt/min. I set the needle valve to produce 50 psi. I didn't mess with the factory relief valve but may set it to 60 psi tomorrow. The only reason I am going to set the factory pump is in case the flow were to be cut off for some reason in the torch lines, like if it gets smashed by a stool or something, that way I have a bit of a safety instead of blowing off the hoses. If I were to buy another pump I would probably go with a slightly larger pump, maybe around 125 GPH, that way I can run the coolant straight from the factory instead of having to cut it with a bit of water.
Reply:Originally Posted by burnsI ordered the Procon pump from Grainger and their part number is #6XE83. I did a little bit of work on it today and cut the coolant with about a cup of water and it flowed a little over 1qt/min. I set the needle valve to produce 50 psi. I didn't mess with the factory relief valve but may set it to 60 psi tomorrow. The only reason I am going to set the factory pump is in case the flow were to be cut off for some reason in the torch lines, like if it gets smashed by a stool or something, that way I have a bit of a safety instead of blowing off the hoses. If I were to buy another pump I would probably go with a slightly larger pump, maybe around 125 GPH, that way I can run the coolant straight from the factory instead of having to cut it with a bit of water.
Reply:Originally Posted by burnsI just rebuilt a Coolmate 1 and used a 100 GPH Procon pump. I did a lot of research on what pump to buy before purchasing but in the end had to make an educated guess. I also went against everyone's advice, which was to just back off the adjustment screw to get 50 psi output, and used a pressure gauge and needle valve on the output side to get the correct psi in the line side of the system. I was a little wary of just backing off the screw off because of how the Procon pump works. The Coolmate 1 was originally equipped with and Oberdorfer pump, which sends the excess water to the tank if it goes over the adjustment psi, but the Procon sends the water back to the input side of the pump when it goes over the psi adjustment. I read in a few places that continuously cycling the water back to the input side of the pump would reduce the service life of the pump. I used a four port fitting right off of the output side of the pump, one hole is the input, 180 degrees from that is the output to the torch, the third hole has a psi gauge, and the fourth hole is the needle valve that goes back to the tank. I backed off the needle valve and started the pump and just screwed it in until I got to 50 psi and then it's set. I did a test afterward, to see how much water was actually flowing through the torch, and the 100 GPH is a touch on the low side at 50 psi. I had to bump it up to 55 psi to get to 1 quart per minute which seems to be the standard recommendation for keeping the torch cool. If I were to do it over again I would buy a pump in the 120 GPH range.
Reply:Originally Posted by gnm109I'm not sure which coolant you might use. I once had some Miller coolant and found out that it was only about 20% white ethylene glycol. For the past 15 years since I've had a TIG welder, I have used 50/50 GM Dex-Cool and distilled water. It's never caused a problem. My pump is a Procon that puts out 45-50 psi. The torch is always nice and cool and I've never had a single issue with it. You really shouldn't have to worry about pressure differentials when using proprietary coolant since the difference in viscosity is negligible. I'm pretty sure that you won't blow off a hose either.
Reply:ShovelonYes, I pulled off the hose that's leaving the power block and going back to the radiator and got slightly over a quart. The pressure is measured with everything installed like it would be for welding and the gauge is located between the pump and the torch
Reply:Originally Posted by burnsI ordered coolant from McMaster Carr, coolant specific for welding, and there was a huge difference between the viscosity of different coolants depending of the ethylene glycol content. I've used one of them rated to -60, which came out like syrup, and the other was rated to 19 F, which is what I used for my cooler . I used Dex-Cool in my old cooler for 5 or 6 years, changed one time through the years, and when I changed out the old coolant before selling the welder I discovered that the old coolant had left a significant amount of sludge in the bottom of the pan. I never actually had any problems with it but since it's not a huge cost, and I just went through the entire machine cleaning everything up and adding a brand new pump, I just went with the cooler specific coolant. As for setting the pump to 60 psi, the current relief valve comes preset for 200 psi and since I have a needle valve controlling the output side pressure I believe that if the flow gets cut off completely there is going to be a huge pressure spike. I'm no hydraulics expert but figure since I already have the thing sitting on my bench I might as well give myself a little margin for error. When I bought my first tig welder I had a pressure line come off at the pump and it's something I never want to experience again. Simply turning out a screw a couple of turns is a much easier job than trying to get two gallons of coolant off of the walls, lathes, mills, and all the other expensive machinery contained within a small machine shop.
Reply:Originally Posted by shovelonWhy a larger volumn pump?
Reply:Tech support at Procon can tell you exactly which pump and options/settings you need for a TIG cooler. They are well aware of the application."USMCPOP" First-born son: KIA Iraq 1/26/05Syncrowave 250 w/ Coolmate 3Dialarc 250, Idealarc 250SP-175 +Firepower TIG 160S (gave the TA 161 STL to the son)Lincwelder AC180C (1952)Victor & Smith O/A torchesMiller spot welder |
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发表于 2021-8-31 22:41:15