can somebody help me chuck a chuck?

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I bought this Rockwell drill press, old but very solid, problem is i'm now sure how to mount a chuck in it. The quill has no cutout on the side for a drift key. I don't think it is on a morse taper configuration, but may be wrong, In the picture, the 1" od threaded partion at the bottom of the quill has a 5/8 od smooth shaft about 1" long and that,s it....any ideas? S/N of the press is #1376819 Attached Images
Reply:If you have a dial gauge micrometer measure the end of the shaft to see if it’s tapered.
Reply:If you have a dial gauge micrometer measure the end of the shaft to see if it’s tapered.. Or if you have a machinists rule, set it on the shaft to see if there is a gap at the end of the shaft which indicates if it’s tapered.
Reply:Yes, there is a slight taper, .05 from largest (at top) to bottom O.D.  So , i know some chucks have a tapered hole for the drive shaft. HHHMMMMM. Two chucks came with the drill, both are Jacobs super chucks, @ 3/4" one has a R5 shaft on it and the other has a #4 or #5 morse taper, do you think these shafts will come ont of the chuck? or are they permanently in there????
Reply:I know that there are taper numbers, don’t know how there are rated. Try looking up tapered drill press shifts or chucks on Google.
Reply:O.K. Now how do i get the shaft out of the chuck?  I tried to push it out from the "jaw" end, are they screwed in? or permanent molded in....
Reply:That is called a JT33 taper. It is very common for a drill press to use a #2 or #3 Morse taper. Most chucks do not come solid to it, they have a JT33 tape. What is in your drill pres is an arbor. My guess is that the arbor is a #2 Morse to JT33. If the arbor is not bent, you can most likely get a chuck with a JT33 taper and just install it.Bill LambertArgon WeldingABQ NMSic gorgiamus allos subjectatos nunc
Reply:Is it possible to push that Ardor out of the quill???? How?
Reply:You may need to weld some steel to it and get your hammer. It all depends on how long it has been in there. I sent you a PM, I miss getting them sometimes too. I will be in the chat room for a little while in case you wanted to ask more questions.Bill LambertArgon WeldingABQ NMSic gorgiamus allos subjectatos nunc
Reply:You may have to take a heavy hand to it. Remove the quill from the press and have it pushed out at a auto shop. If you decide to bang it out your self, use a brass drift pin as not to mushroom the taper shaft.
Reply:I usually can't keep them in the drill press. If you are having trouble getting the shaft out of the chuck you wish to put into the drill press. You might try getting an old pair of vise grips. Lock the flat of the tapper, in the vise grips. Put the chuck on top of the vise with the shaft going between the loose jaws of the vise. Then whack the vise grips.        Sincerely,             William McCormick
Reply:Thanks, I will get a better look at it tomorrow..........
Reply:Is it remotely possible that you simply have a Jacobs turned onto the drill spindle itself rather than a Morse & Jacobs arbor insert?
Reply:I used this site and a couple others quite a few years ago while working on an an old screwed up drill press. There are a couple of links on this page that are also important. Took a while to find this thing. I'd hoped it was still in existance. http://www.beautifuliron.com/mttaper.htm
Reply:Originally Posted by SandyIs it remotely possible that you simply have a Jacobs turned onto the drill spindle itself rather than a Morse & Jacobs arbor insert?
Reply:Interesting article. I guess i have to figure out if the arbor shaft is pressed (JT) into the chuck or if it is screwed in. Not sure how i will do that though.......being a high quality jacobs chuck i don't think the arbor shaft is milled with the chuck, that is "one unit"  HMMMMMMM I know i will have nightmares on this.... I have hit it pretty hard in the vice, and nothing moved at all...
Reply:Originally Posted by 1awert1Interesting article. I guess i have to figure out if the arbor shaft is pressed (JT) into the chuck or if it is screwed in. Not sure how i will do that though.......being a high quality jacobs chuck i don't think the arbor shaft is milled with the chuck, that is "one unit"  HMMMMMMM I know i will have nightmares on this.... I have hit it pretty hard in the vice, and nothing moved at all...
Reply:Yup, I have the drill press figured out, only thing left to do is get the arbor out of the jacob chuck, It is a #16? but it says J4 - M4....meaning (I think) the chuck has a jacob #4 receiver hole for the #4 morse taper arbor. Now the big problem is, my lathe has a MT #3 and i can't get that Dang arbor out of the chuck, I would like to put a #3 MT on the chuck and use it in my lathe, I pounded and pounded, no luck, would it be better to find someone to try and press it out????? any tricks i should know about??? i think it has been in there for a long time.....right now it is soaking in "BLASTER" fluid....
Reply:Originally Posted by 1awert1Now the big problem is, my lathe has a MT #3 and i can't get that Dang arbor out of the chuck, I would like to put a #3 MT on the chuck and use it in my lathe, I pounded and pounded, no luck, would it be better to find someone to try and press it out????? any tricks i should know about??? i think it has been in there for a long time.....right now it is soaking in "BLASTER" fluid....
Reply:That configuration takes a chuck with a 33 jacobs taper back, and a captive 1.062-20 threaded locking collar.  The locking collar prevents the chuck from coming off the taper when slight side forces are applied.  These drillpresses could be fitted with wood shaping cutters.  This doesn't make it suitable as a milling machine though!  Do not try to remove from quill.  This is the actual spindle, and you really need to get the right chuck.RegardsBob
Reply:Thanks bjmh46, I have that figured out pretty much, I have bought a J33 1/2" chuck and will use that, I really wanted to use one of the 3/4 Jacob chucks, but that's o.k. I still want to use the jacob chuck on my lathe, but the MT has to be a #3 and the arbor in it now is a #4 and i can't get the thing out...might try 43fed's idea. I don't really care about the arbor that is in there now..........
Reply:If you have access to a hydraulic press you can usually remove the arbor by doing the following:-open the chuck to capacity-drill thru the back of the chuck, into the arbor hole.  When you break thru the chuck body, stop.    Don't continue into the arbor.  On a 3/4 chuck, I'd drill 1/2 inch or 33/64 for a 1/2 inch pusher pin.-use something like a hardened dowel pin thru the hole you just drilled to push the arbor out in the press.Other ways to remove include chuck wedges, drilling and tapping the back (tang end) of the arbor and using a tubular sleeve and heavy washer and bolt to "pull" the arbor.  I've successfully pulled lots of arbors, and pushed them out after drilling the chuck, but not much success with the wedges.If you meant R8 instead of R5, the Bridgeport R8 is already tapped 7/16-20, so you would only need a sleeve (pipe?) and a 7/16-20 bolt or stud.good luck!BobLast edited by bjmh46; 11-24-2009 at 03:11 PM.Reason: thought of something else
Reply:Thanks bjmh46.... You win the prize......I drilled a 1/2" hole thru the back of the chuck took a harden bolt used biggest hammer i had and 4 or 5 whacks it popped out....., I have been beating on that thing for two days. The bigger hole i drilled was the clue.....SUCCESS!
Reply:Originally Posted by 1awert1Thanks bjmh46.... You win the prize......I drilled a 1/2" hole thru the back of the chuck took a harden bolt used biggest hammer i had and 4 or 5 whacks it popped out....., I have been beating on that thing for two days. The bigger hole i drilled was the clue.....SUCCESS!
Reply:WE NEED PICS, or i need pics! Dumb noob here.If it is a tapered shaft/ chuck you need to use wedge to remove the chuckhttp://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg...ge&N=0&sst=All