Another logsplitter build

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Tacked up the base end today.  I'm trying to get this built out of material I've got laying around and it taking more time to flapdisc it clean than to fit and weld.  The stop plate is 3/4", middle gusset is 5/8x6 flat stock cut to run down the web of the beam, outside gussets are 1/2x 31/2 flat stock. Tacked it with my lil blue MM 135 and will start up the Bobcat tomorrow to get the serious stuff done. Probably will need to do some preheating before running the 7018. The pic of my hoist will make some of you laugh and maybe cringe, but it works for my purposes (mainly to hang elk/deer on for skinning) and it helped get this thing up on my table. It's a 2500 lb atv winch on a receiver tube bolted to a steel structural column, powered by a lawn mower battery that is charged by the working bank of a 2 bank charger that was taken out my my bassboat and replaced. The cable runs thru (2) snatch blocks to the center of my work area and hangs from a 3"sch 40 pipe with a truss arrangement to prevent sag over the 10' span. Attached Images
Reply:tekstar...That wall board is a MESS!  How in the world do you ever find your tools...??Neat splitter job, BTW
Reply:Originally Posted by tekstarI'm trying to get this built out of material I've got laying around and it taking more time to flapdisc it clean than to fit and weld.
Reply:Originally Posted by shortfusetekstar...That wall board is a MESS!  How in the world do you ever find your tools...??Neat splitter job, BTW
Reply:Originally Posted by CEPI know what you mean, I built this one for my brother-n-law out of my scrap pile.
Reply:No it was a chuck of 16-inch pipe I had. Built him a counterweight too. Filled the pipe with concrete. Attached ImagesDon’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:lmao.... Now that's what I call a serious counterweight !
Reply:Great Idea on counterweight. I'm going. To copy it.  Richey
Reply:Are you going to be splitting some of that AZ petrified wood?  John
Reply:Originally Posted by iffida20Are you going to be splitting some of that AZ petrified wood?  John
Reply:Originally Posted by richeyGreat Idea on counterweight. I'm going. To copy it.  Richey
Reply:Originally Posted by CEPI know what you mean, I built this one for my brother-n-law out of my scrap pile.
Reply:Originally Posted by k45I wish I had your scrap pile!!!
Reply:Did you have another beam to choose from in your scrap pile?
Reply:Originally Posted by woodtick007Did you have another beam to choose from in your scrap pile?
Reply:Looks great.  I'm curious, what is the winch mounted on the wall used for?*************************************Mike AccardiHenderson, [email protected] 250XLincoln Weldpack HDMiller Syncrowave 180 SD*************************************
Reply:it looks like it can lock into either a three point hitch, or a 2" tube.Dynasty 200DXPassport plus w/ spoolmate 100victor 315c oxy/(act and prop)Miller digital elitemilwaukee power tools
Reply:Originally Posted by accardmiLooks great.  I'm curious, what is the winch mounted on the wall used for?
Reply:Borrowed my neighbor's Miller Bobcat today to finish up one end. Dang.....I'd forgotten how long it has been since I stick welded !  Looks like a flock of pigeons (or farmersam's seagulls) flew over some of these welds.  Been 15 yrs since I last struck an arc, but I think they'll hold. Any advice on how to clean them up would be appreciated.  I used 1/8" lincoln 7018 at about 180 amps. Most of the welds were run horizontally because i don't trust my vertical skills again yet. Attached ImagesLast edited by tekstar; 10-21-2013 at 08:57 PM.Reason: forgot the pics...lol
Reply:The welds don't look bad but.. I think you need to check that amperage adjustment knob, 180 amps is allot for 1/8" 7018 Airco Ac/Dc 300 HeliwelderMillerMatic 200 (stolen)Miller Maxstar 150STLMiller AEAD200LE (welding and generating power) Hobart MIG
Reply:Originally Posted by SquirmyPugThe welds don't look bad but.. I think you need to check that amperage adjustment knob, 180 amps is allot for 1/8" 7018
Reply:Originally Posted by tekstarThanks, Squirmy...... I didn't even look at the settings, just told him what I was welding and to set it before I tow it away.  He said "180 oughta do it !" and I left with his machine.   Guess ya just can't trust a crusty 'ol retired pipeliner...  LOL... us old farts gotta be watched constantly !
Reply:Originally Posted by BistineauCan ya post a pic of the face of the machine where the settings are? That way we can see what amperage you are actually running, that is if they haven't been changed already.
Reply:You'll want to pre-heat both pieces when you weld high carbon steel to a 1" thick mild steel plate.  I would just weld it with 7018 that is fresh from the can or properly baked in an oven.  6010 would be a bad choice because it can contribute a lot of hydrogen to the weld; this encourages cracking.  Your high carbon wedge will bring enough potential cracking problems to the table as is.  You can also weld this with 309 stainless; even though it's not dissimilar metal.  The stainless will tolerate the carbon that moves from the high carbon steel better than most mild steel electrodes.Whichever way you go, pre heat both pieces to 300 to 400F.  Weld out the joint without stopping.  Then pack the joint in some fireproof insulation or even warm sand and let it cool slowly to room temperature.  The high carbon side of the weld, and the weld bead itself, will want to crack or become very brittle if it's cooled to quickly.Do you know what grade of high carbon steel the wedge is made of?  If you can give some more details, I might be able to offer some additional tips to successfully make that weld. Originally Posted by tekstarI already returned the machine back to him, but will be borrowing it again as soon as my cylinder and wedge get here. I'll get a pic then and will also get a short lesson from him on his machine settings because I'll be welding 1" plate to high carbon steel wedge and will need to change some settings when I go back to the smaller stuff.  Am I correct on assuming that to weld the high carbon wedge to the 1" mild steel plate that I should do the stringer with 5p+ and then finish up with 7018 ?
Reply:Originally Posted by tekstarI already returned the machine back to him, but will be borrowing it again as soon as my cylinder and wedge get here. I'll get a pic then and will also get a short lesson from him on his machine settingsHere's the page from the manual explaining it. This is for a BC 225 G, but is the same for all the BCsBobcat settings.pdf.
Reply:Originally Posted by BistineauHere's the page from the manual explaining it. This is for a BC 225 G, but is the same for all the BCsBobcat settings.pdf.
Reply:Originally Posted by CEPNo I didn't, I was afraid it was going to be too small. But he has been splitting oak for two seasons now with out any problems.
Reply:Originally Posted by A_DAB_will_doYou'll want to pre-heat both pieces when you weld high carbon steel to a 1" thick mild steel plate.  I would just weld it with 7018 that is fresh from the can or properly baked in an oven.  6010 would be a bad choice because it can contribute a lot of hydrogen to the weld; this encourages cracking.  Your high carbon wedge will bring enough potential cracking problems to the table as is.  You can also weld this with 309 stainless; even though it's not dissimilar metal.  The stainless will tolerate the carbon that moves from the high carbon steel better than most mild steel electrodes.Whichever way you go, pre heat both pieces to 300 to 400F.  Weld out the joint without stopping.  Then pack the joint in some fireproof insulation or even warm sand and let it cool slowly to room temperature.  The high carbon side of the weld, and the weld bead itself, will want to crack or become very brittle if it's cooled to quickly.Do you know what grade of high carbon steel the wedge is made of?  If you can give some more details, I might be able to offer some additional tips to successfully make that weld.
Reply:Finally got a chance to put in a couple of hrs. on the build today. I decided to make my own wedge since I had a nice chunk of 1"x8" plate that I scrounged off a job a few years back. Wasn't too difficult to put a double bevel on it and I'll case harden the leading edge tomorrow.  I cut and fitted the slide and the rear cylinder mount and got the pilot holes drilled for the yoke pins and then discovered that my 1" bit is missing. Should be able to weld it all up tomorrow and I'll post some progress pics.  QUESTION for someone with experience: Can I use old hydraulic fluid for a quench when I harden the wedge ????
Reply:You can, but if you use standard plate and you're going to harden by flame, it won't harden due to lack of carbon in the steel.I don't know your baackground of hardening, so I can either write 20 pages about it or you can ask more specific questions and I'll do my best answering them.
Reply:I'm not sure that I would worry about hardening.  I made mine out of just MS plate that I beveled and it seems to hold an edge fine.
Reply:Originally Posted by cd19I'm not sure that I would worry about hardening.
Reply:Originally Posted by CEPMe either, it's wood for God sakes, not rock!
Reply:I dont understand the need/requirement/want for a hardened splitting wedge. What exactly is a hardened steel wedge going to do for the average splitter?  I have split hundreds of cords of wood on 3 homebuilt  splitters and never had any problem with 3/4-1 inch plate steel that was used.
Reply:well.... guess y'all answered that question !!!!   I won't be hardening the wedge !    Hey, that's why this is such a good forum..... good answers from experienced people !  Thanks for the input !
Reply:Originally Posted by kingneroYou can, but if you use standard plate and you're going to harden by flame, it won't harden due to lack of carbon in the steel.I don't know your baackground of hardening, so I can either write 20 pages about it or you can ask more specific questions and I'll do my best answering them.
Reply:So this one is on my list of things to build one day. Best design I think I've ever seen.Brian
Reply:Originally Posted by musickbcSo this one is on my list of things to build one day. Best design I think I've eBrian
Reply:Got the wedge/slide and rear cylinder mount all ready to go today and welded in 1" suction and return ports on my oil tank. Air tested the tank @ 25psi with no leaks. Lol.... kinda slow since I'm building this with scrap and no experience... but it's fun learning. Any input is welcome ! ( lol.... like I really had to say that)  You guys have been great with the advice and I appreciate it. Last edited by tekstar; 10-28-2013 at 09:22 PM.
Reply:Originally Posted by musickbcSo this one is on my list of things to build one day. Best design I think I've ever seen.Brian
Reply:To the OP, the only advice I will offer at this time is to make sure you have enough hydro fluid to keep it cool and have the return tube go down into the tank so you don't induce air into the system. All in all it looks great so far.What are your specs for pump, cylinder and motor?Last edited by dave_dj1; 10-28-2013 at 10:10 PM.
Reply:Originally Posted by woodtick007The "best"?  the old geezer has to dodder around like a fumbling fool to load and function the loglift.... I guess if your just looking for something to build have at it.....but the best?  Just sayin.
Reply:Lookin' good so far! Can't wait to see it finished!I have a store bought 26-ton log-splitter. . . When I get time, I'm planning to use some of the parts off it and build my own!I built a 4-way wedge for mine and it really saves time!Keep posting pictures!Hobart Handler 190Hobart Spool-Gun 100Lincoln 225 ACMiller & Pipeliner HoodDewalt 14" Chopsaw, GrindersHarris O/AVictor TorchCustom Built O/A CartCustom Welding CartHeavy Duty 16 Speed Floor Drill PressPipe-BenderDrill Doctor
Reply:As mentioned you must have your return line submerged in your tank. I used a 11 gallon air tank and I put the return almost 2/3-3/4 of the way down. If you don't you will have problems with pump cavitation and foaming of your hydraulic oil.  I would also put a fitting in with a ball valve on the bottom to control oil flow if you need to change or drain some oil. Personally I would not put a strainer in the suction port of the tank.   Million different opinions on that.....I do not want to restrict oil flow to the pump in any way.  I found putting the suction fitting at the opposite end of the tank from the return line coming off the bottom of the side and not the bottom of the tank worked best for me.   I assume your tank will not have any baffles..... so make your return like as large as possible....3/4 min. 1" would be better.   Don't forget to add a 1/2" port for a breather and 2-3" port for your filler pipe.  I just used  3" schedule 40 pipe and put a pipe cap on it to seal off the filler pipe.  Oh, and BTW there is nothing worse than not having a ball valve on the bottom of the tank for control of the oil flow during service
Reply:Originally Posted by dave_dj1To the OP, the only advice I will offer at this time is to make sure you have enough hydro fluid to keep it cool and have the return tube go down into the tank so you don't induce air into the system. All in all it looks great so far.What are your specs for pump, cylinder and motor?
Reply:Originally Posted by woodtick007As mentioned you must have your return line submerged in your tank. I used a 11 gallon air tank and I put the return almost 2/3-3/4 of the way down. If you don't you will have problems with pump cavitation and foaming of your hydraulic oil.  I would also put a fitting in with a ball valve on the bottom to control oil flow if you need to change or drain some oil. Personally I would not put a strainer in the suction port of the tank.   Million different opinions on that.....I do not want to restrict oil flow to the pump in any way.  I found putting the suction fitting at the opposite end of the tank from the return line coming off the bottom of the side and not the bottom of the tank worked best for me.   I assume your tank will not have any baffles..... so make your return like as large as possible....3/4 min. 1" would be better.   Don't forget to add a 1/2" port for a breather and 2-3" port for your filler pipe.  I just used  3" schedule 40 pipe and put a pipe cap on it to seal off the filler pipe.  Oh, and BTW there is nothing worse than not having a ball valve on the bottom of the tank for control of the oil flow during service
Reply:You should have a cycle time of 12-14 seconds   My last splitter I used an autocycle valve and it is awesome. They are about $300 and require a couple extra fittings and hoses.... Well worth the money.  Try Baileys Hydraulics for your fittings and hoses..... you will save a TON My last splitter I made a tank that holds 30 gallons.Last edited by woodtick007; 10-29-2013 at 08:43 PM.
Reply:Reservoir should be 3 times the pump flow 11 gpm x 3= 33 gallon tank.
Reply:I think you will be fine with a 5 gal. tank as long as you aren't running it night and day. Breaks are a good thing, rest the body and rest the machine! LOLDid you consider the venting of the tank? Also as the oil heats up it will expand so don't over fill it.I can attest to not having a ball valve drain on my tank, I have to pump it all out and it sucks. I have a slight drip at the pump and I have to drain the tank and tighten fittings and I'm going to install the drain then.Keep up the good work!