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As I posted recently, I just picked up a turn key Syncro 351 setup to replace my old SMAW setup and expand my capabilities into the GTAW realm. I also recently picked up a very old and well worked smallish/portable concrete mixer. This is old school with a cast aluminum dome shaped bottom with integrated bearing spindle and massive rack around the circumference. A sheet steel barrel wall and blades are then added. Main problem is the blades are riveted to the cast bell. And over the decades of hard service, that casting has acquired some pretty nasty stress cracks up to about 10" long, but no pieces missing yet. Unfortunately, the cast quality doesn't look great to start with, and it's certainly contaminated with concrete. And just to make it more interesting, the PO "repaired" it with JB weld, which of course is also now cracked.In my past life, I would cleared the concrete scabs adhered here and there, ground out the epoxy, ground a bit to "V" the crack, stop drilled just past the end of the cracks, fluxed the crap out of it, and then brazed up the cracks. But hey, I now have a TIG, but no real skills. I know this is certainly not an ideal beginner project, but should I try a TIG weld (with generous preheat of course)? Or, if not a good idea now, assuming I had suitable skill, would this ever be better done with TIG than brazing? Just something that crossed my mind as I walked past it (and a dozen other pending projects) tonight.
Reply:I don't think AL brazes but I could be wrong.Dynasty 200DXPassport plus w/ spoolmate 100victor 315c oxy/(act and prop)Miller digital elitemilwaukee power tools
Reply:Turk. They do sell alum "brazing rods". Typically the rods aren't really alum, but some lower melting material like zinc. In reality they are more like soldering rods.Your Syncrowave has enough power that preheat wouldn't be needed. That said tig welding alum isn't easy and I wouldn't recommend this as a 1st project without a moderate amount of basic practice 1st. On top of that cast alum often is questionable as to if it's weldable or not due to contaminants in the material. Some cast welds beautiful. Others all you do is keep bringing up crud as the material disintegrates around you.Good news is concrete doesn't get in the pours of the alum like oil does. I'd probably abrasive blast it 1st to remove as much oxide layer and hardened concrete as possible if I was trying to prep this sight unseen. Given a choice I'd probably opt for mig as my best chance at a repair, especially if done with minimal skills at welding alum..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Post a few pics, I'm sure some of the pros here can help ya out.Edit: DSW jumped I before me.TA Arcmaster 300CM3XMT 304S22P12 suitcase feederX-Treme 12VSOptima pulserTA161SMaxstar 150STLHypertherm PM45OP setupStihl 020AVP, 039, 066 Magnum
Reply:Hilco makes A/O use rods that work good.Po boyz can't afford TIG units so that is the go-to around my area for all sorts of ALU. #'s Hi5 and 12, I think. It's not really like brazing. The AL flows a tad. Best with #3 shade to see it.Matter of fact if I didn't know any better I'd think Hilco was a Costa Rican company ! Them, American filler, Morse and Metabo are as prevalent as the birds and orchids.Bubble gumTooth pixDuct tapeBlack glueGBMF hammerScrew gun --bad battery (see above)
Reply:Sounds like the AL "brazing" (soldering, whatever) rod I used in the past. Something I got at the local welding supply store, and it worked pretty well.I'll see if I can get a pic tomorrow. With my limited skill/experience, and the questionable material, I suspect I'll do the A/O braze/solder/whatever again... |
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发表于 2021-8-31 22:40:54