Milk Steamer!

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We'll its not fully done, and had to get 3 different main water chamber ideas going before deciding on what I have here. I've machined all the brass pieces myself, and polished off all the copper and brass to get rid of the silver solder and have better aesthetics. I'm still waiting on the joystick valve and wand to decide on position of the water fill and everything else. The part on the opposite side of the gauge is the pressure relief valve. Inside of it, there's a stainless steel spring and ball, the screw on the end adjust the pressure on the spring, in turn adjusting the pressure of the tank. It'll be set at about 25 psi to relieve at. It'll also actually be turned down to point down when the steam opens, and it'll collect in a tank thats going on the side of it. Attached ImagesOwner at: www.re-speed.comLike us on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/respeed
Reply:One more picture :POwner at: www.re-speed.comLike us on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/respeed
Reply:Looks awesome so far, Very pro nice work! I hate being bi-polar it's awsomeMy Heroes Have Always Been Cowboys
Reply:Thanks Mike. Btw, this is the joystick handle I'm waiting on. Owner at: www.re-speed.comLike us on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/respeed
Reply:The fittings you are using are only good for 15psig steam service. looks nice, but steam burns can be a awfully painful. Especially for an item that is fairly cheap and readily available.
Reply:Originally Posted by walkerThe fittings you are using are only good for 15psig steam service. looks nice, but steam burns can be a awfully painful. Especially for an item that is fairly cheap and readily available.
Reply:nevermind ... I just looked up a few things, and looks like the issue is soldering the ends with silver solder. But if I had them brazed, the pressure can go up to 120psig .... well that sucks!Can I just braze over what I have now?Owner at: www.re-speed.comLike us on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/respeed
Reply:this may be a stupid question but why do you steam milk?Lincoln 225 ac (my first machine)farmhand 115vac 70amp mig/fc toymiller aead 200le (my main machine)
Reply:Originally Posted by fdude64this may be a stupid question but why do you steam milk?
Reply:That is looking awesome. Did you kill that rat yet? Your not gonna give him that steamed milk are you?......... haha. Looks good. What did you use for the tank?Arcon Workhorse 300MSPowcon 400SMTPowcon SM400 x 2Powcon SM3001968 SA200 Redface1978 SA250 DieselMiller Super 32P FeederPre 1927 American 14" High Duty LatheK&T Milwaukee 2H Horizontal MillBryan
Reply:I used 2 stainless steel pots, that I tigwelded together.Owner at: www.re-speed.comLike us on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/respeed
Reply:What kind of pressure will you be running in the tank and what is your heat source.  I would hydro test and verify your relief valve setting.  Is there a chance you will be putting cold water in the tank while hot.  If so you will also need a good sized vacuum relief valve or it will crush like a pop can.Good looking quality work.Dan D.Last edited by DanD78; 01-01-2014 at 07:28 AM.
Reply:This is how i welded the pots together. There is probably only about 30 thou of thickness there judging from the amount amps I had to put in there. There will only be a maximum of 25 psi (or atleast thats what I'll be setting it to). I tested the relief valve settings by connecting an air line to it, and kept on screwing it in till I reached that pressure. And I did test all the fitting till 50psi of air, but that isn't taking into account the hot steam (which supposedly can reach to 250 degrees where as i guess the solder joints are only about 300 degrees rated. Thats only at the 15psig that was referred to earlier. Anyone's though of  brazing right over the soldered joints though?Owner at: www.re-speed.comLike us on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/respeed
Reply:Wow!!!!Now I lay me down to sleep, by the bed a Colt I do keep.Should I wake and find you inside, a coroner van is your next ride.
Reply:These are the parts inside the relief valve. 1) A small brass piece machined with a seat to hold and seal the ball in. 2) The ball seated in its spot3) Spring seated on top of the ball (btw both ball and spring are stainless steel)4) Here you can see the seat for the spring, and relief hole that goes to the other side5) All back together Owner at: www.re-speed.comLike us on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/respeed