Help building intercooler end tanks?

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Friend of mine has a intercooler that is cracked and asked if I could make some aluminum end tanks. Never did anything like this but I'm up for the challenge. I'm sure I'll have lots of hours and little pay, but hey that's how we learn right.So I got the one side off and put a flat piece in there and started to weld it to the ends of the tabs shows below. Welds like complete crap. Looking for other ideas, or ways to make this simple and not take up too much of my time.Should I weld it to these tabs or cut them off completely or down the middle?And yes the previous owner filled it with lots of rtv.I don't have a brake to bend aluminum and even if I did all I have is a few sheets of 6061. Torchmate 2x2 CNC with Flashcut CNC controlsHypertherm Powermax45 Esab ET220i Razorweld 195 MigRazorweld 200ac/dc TigTormach 770, Tormach xstechRazorweld, Vipercut/Vipermig, SSC Foot Pedal Dealer
Reply:The first thing you need to figure out is how the core is assembled.  IIRC, it could be epoxied, brazed, or welded.  The RTV residue will give you trouble.  If the core is epoxied, you just as well quit now.My name's not Jim....
Reply:You've got to remove any oil residue also... take it to the car wash with a pressure washer and use simple green and hot water to degrease it.I'd cut all the tabs off too.Welding/Fab Pics: www.UtahWeld.com
Reply:When I did some sheet metal end tanks on a tube and fin intercooler core like this that used to have the crimped on plastic end tanks, I thoroughly degreased it (with gasoline followed by brake parts cleaner, non-chlorinated of course) tin-snipped off the crimped surfaces but left the flat header flange, fabricated the end tanks to fit snug, then did a tight weld of the header flange to the end tank sheetmetal.  Scotchbrite-cleaned all the old oxides from any surfaces being welded (front and back sides). It didn't take much filler because it was practically autogenous welding, melting the header flange together with the end tank sheet metal.I used 5052 sheet metal, although it takes a pretty good effort to bend; it does weld very nicely with high strength deposit.  The 'cooler has reliably been taking close to 30psi since.  The end tanks are .065" sheet metal, so the cooler is light as a feather.  That would probably be too thin if it used large flat surfaces ( as ate common to see in sheet metal end tanks, probably due to ease of fabrication), but using some curvature in the surfaces gives it lots of strength.  It's used in a racing application.  I also flared the tubing openings for better airflow.The end rank design I used leaves little desired in terms of airflow - no sharp edges in the airflow -  all smooth transition from the boost tube inlet and outlet.  If interested I'll find some pics.  It did take considerable time to fabricate, though.  I used manilla folder material, taped together to mock-up the design and get templates to cut out the sheet metal pieces from.Bur also take a look at hammer-formed F1 intercooler end tanks for some inspiration.Last edited by jakeru; 09-10-2013 at 04:09 AM.
Reply:Well this was a learning experience for sure. The one side came out ok. The other side I started to do square and realized I needed a different shape. And being late at night, I only had a cheap plasma with no extra consumables, and too late to fire up the porta band or the sander.So I am happy with how half of it came out the other half not so much.All I had was 6061 .100 so there was no bending it and I needed a few little pieces here and there.Going to fill it with water and pressure test it. Add a bracket and I never want to see it again. LolThanks for the help.Oh ya I cut all the tabs off with a cutting wheel. And then wire brush, and heated with the torch and wire brushed some more to get rid of all the rtv someone packed in there. Attached ImagesTorchmate 2x2 CNC with Flashcut CNC controlsHypertherm Powermax45 Esab ET220i Razorweld 195 MigRazorweld 200ac/dc TigTormach 770, Tormach xstechRazorweld, Vipercut/Vipermig, SSC Foot Pedal Dealer
Reply:Originally Posted by jakeruWhen I did some sheet metal end tanks on a tube and fin intercooler core like this that used to have the crimped on plastic end tanks, I thoroughly degreased it (with gasoline followed by brake parts cleaner, non-chlorinated of course) tin-snipped off the crimped surfaces but left the flat header flange, fabricated the end tanks to fit snug, then did a tight weld of the header flange to the end tank sheetmetal.  Scotchbrite-cleaned all the old oxides from any surfaces being welded (front and back sides). It didn't take much filler because it was practically autogenous welding, melting the header flange together with the end tank sheet metal.I used 5052 sheet metal, although it takes a pretty good effort to bend; it does weld very nicely with high strength deposit.  The 'cooler has reliably been taking close to 30psi since.  The end tanks are .065" sheet metal, so the cooler is light as a feather.  That would probably be too thin if it used large flat surfaces ( as ate common to see in sheet metal end tanks, probably due to ease of fabrication), but using some curvature in the surfaces gives it lots of strength.  It's used in a racing application.  I also flared the tubing openings for better airflow.The end rank design I used leaves little desired in terms of airflow - no sharp edges in the airflow -  all smooth transition from the boost tube inlet and outlet.  If interested I'll find some pics.  It did take considerable time to fabricate, though.  I used manilla folder material, taped together to mock-up the design and get templates to cut out the sheet metal pieces from.Bur also take a look at hammer-formed F1 intercooler end tanks for some inspiration.
Reply:I hate to bag on a project that you put so much time and effort into but your end tank design is about as bad as it can get. You have likely reduced the efficiency of the IC considerably compared to the old end tank. The old tanks flowed in from the ends and taper to the end of the IC. This forces more laminar flow and even distribution of air through the whole tank. Square end tanks are a bad design and yours being so short is only going to exacerbate the problem. At the very least you would want something like this. Even that isn't ideal. Something like this would be much better. Lincoln precision TIG 275Millermatic 140 MIG
Reply:You are right, I realized that when I was done. Like I said it was more of a learning project than anything. The other side I did more of a triangle shape because the pipe came out the top. It's for a 200-225hp fwd car so it's not needing to be anything crazy.Torchmate 2x2 CNC with Flashcut CNC controlsHypertherm Powermax45 Esab ET220i Razorweld 195 MigRazorweld 200ac/dc TigTormach 770, Tormach xstechRazorweld, Vipercut/Vipermig, SSC Foot Pedal Dealer
Reply:I prefer not to sack on a venture that you put so much time and exertion into however your close tank outline is about as awful as it can get. You have likely diminished the effectiveness of the Ic respectably contrasted with the old end tank.steel fabricators Queensland
Reply:Originally Posted by WenchDealI prefer not to sack on a venture that you put so much time and exertion into however your close tank outline is about as awful as it can get. You have likely diminished the effectiveness of the Ic respectably contrasted with the old end tank.