Another fixture to silver solder bandsaw blades

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I just clamp it in a vise when I use it. I use a small oxy/act torch and normally have so little excess solder that I just use a file to get the joint flat. A blade that I had already cleaned up is in it. I grind a 22 degree angle on the ends before soldering. Attached Images
Reply:Mike;your jig looks pretty good.  have you used the blade much? I thought about Silver solder. That guy on E-bay sells kits. The article I read at the Beaumont Iron works sight seemed pretty positive, and I've heard some negatives about the E-bay kit. So I decided to braze. I don't do enough brazing to be neat enough not to have to grind excess filler. I used a Dremel tool with a small drum sander attachment. So far I've cut a bunch of aluminum, and some 1/4"x2"x2" tube and the blade seems to be holding up ok.I plan to use the same blade stock in my "Porta-band" it uses a 44 7/8" blade. The Factory blades are .020" thick, and My stock is .025" thick I hope it will work ok.
Reply:Use the 50% silver solder. It flows much better and is very strong. I put a dab of flux on the joint and heat the bottom side. I then move to the top and when the flux is liquid, I add the solder. It only takes a few seconds from start to finish. I make up 5 or 6 blades at a time so I always have a spare ready to go. I use Starret carbon steel. Since I changed from a 45 to a 22 degree lap joint, it is rare to have a joint fail.The fixture insures that the blade is not out of alignment.
Reply:Maybe not the place for this but has anyone used the HF blade welder?  I used a blade welder when working in the tool room, but it was an industrial unit.  If the HF works half as well, at about $120, and with the cost of silver solder, I think it would pay off quickly. Thanks
Reply:Anyone know what bulk blade stock costs?  Say 3/4 by 18 tooth?