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Ok guys, I am a newbie to the welding world, but have started taking a class. Anyways, I am going to be building some pipe stands for some deer feeders. Just a piece of pipe cemented in the ground, with a piece welded onto the the top at 90 degrees. Kind of like an upside down L. So anyways, I am trying to figure out the easiest way to cut the notch in the pipe that the top pipe will sit in. I know it is done on fences all the time. I am assuming you just take your torch and cut a little notch on each end, but there has got to be some kind of real way to do it. Also, if anybody has made any deer feeder hangers, I would love to hear how you did them. Thanks for your helpFluffDriftwood, Texas
Reply:Sorry about the category, should have been in general welding Q's.
Reply:There are all kinds of cool tools to do this, and they can cost a whole lot of money. Some use sanding belts, some use end mills, some use hole saws. But most of them are for applications that need to be a whole lot more precise than yours- things like stainless steel or chromealloy tubing that is going to be tig welded together, and needs to fit perfectly before welding. First thing is drawing the curve you want to cut- at any good welding supply store, you can buy a nifty tool called a contour marker that has a bunch of sliding stainless pins in a plastic ring- It allows you to exactly measure the curve you want at any angle. But for 90 degrees, just take a little scrap of pipe, hold it up to the pipe you want to notch, and trace it with a soapstone or a silver pencil. Then cut the notch, with a torch, a plasma cutter, a saw, a punch, or a cut off disc on a grinder. Touch it up if you need with a grinder, tack, and weld.If you want perfection, another approach is to use these nifty weld in notches-http://www.wagnercompanies.com/conne...connectors.htmthe 90 degree t welds in, and then you weld the cross bar on. Pretty cheap, in quantity, and quicker than notching for production work.
Reply:I'd guess you're looking at one inch pipe, right?For that I usually just use a grinder.It's really quite simple. Butt your pipe to your pipe. Measure the distance from outer edge to outer edge. On one inch it's probably be three eighths to a half inch max.You can use a cut off saw, a grinder, a bandsaw, or a portaband. At your measurement start your cut aiming to hit the end of the pipe about a third down. Turn you pipe over and repeat the process.Ideally your notched piece should look like a chisel someone broke where the point is gone.Like Ries said, there are different methods and most of them cost some bucks. The junk stores carry Lil' Jigger knockoffs. That's a jig that takes a hole saw. You clamp in your pipe at the angle you want to cut and the hole saw part comes down like it's in a drill press.William's Low Buck, probably the smartest one man to ever walk the face of the earth, sells a neat pipe notcher for different sizes. I've used and abused the one he sold me almost twenty years ago and it still does what it's supposed to do without complaining. I think a standard set is now just over three hundred for his.I carry a Vogel on my truck. It's set up just for two inch schedule forty and makes cutting notches nothing but a thing. But it's about twelve hundred dollars now.Commercial gate manufacturers use a trick tool. It's got three slots, one and three eighths, one and five eighths, and one and seven eighths. The dies are constantly moving up and down. So whatever size you're coping you just stick it in and it's coped without you pushing a button or nothing. And you don't have change dies when you change sizes either. It's neat for production.Mittler Bros makes one for the race car shops that's basically a milling head. You adjust the guide for your pipe for the angle you want and let it come in and eat everything you don't want for dinner yourself. Cubic dollars.There are a lot of notchers out there that use sanding belts too.But if you're doing something small don't make a big deal out of coping (notching). It isn't really that difficult.life is good
Reply:Yup, what they said. One thing I might add is this. If you are unsure about your notching skill, cut the pipe long enough to make several attempts at it. That way you won't be too short once you get a good saddle. Do the measuring thing, draw it out and cut with your axe of choice. If it doesn't fit right the first time, just fix it with a grinder, re-cut or start over. It isn't hard to do, just takes practice and patience.Don
Reply:Thanks for the info. I am trying to get some old drill pipe, something like 3" or so, I need ot strong enough to hold 300+ pounds of deer corn. Again, thanks for the info, I will give it my best shot.
Reply:Originally Posted by fluffThanks for the info. I am trying to get some old drill pipe, something like 3" or so, I need ot strong enough to hold 300+ pounds of deer corn. Again, thanks for the info, I will give it my best shot.
Reply:Harv, I will be using 55 gallon drums, so you are saying that I can hang a 55 gallon drum 6 feet in the air with 300+ pounds of corn, with 1" pipe?????
Reply:Harv, this is similar to what I am thinking.
Reply:Yup. You need more than one inch pipe for that concept.The way I've made feeders for the locals is with one inch but they've been tripods. These guys have been on leases and didn't want to invest in something permanent.If you're talking fenceman, three inch is two and seven eighths aka two and a half inch pipe you welding supply might carry Sure-cuts. They're made to be a guide for your torch. You just lay your torch against the sure-cut and follow it. You'll have a perfect saddle. There's also little yellow jobbers made for tracing around. They're cheaper. But the sure cut is better.You are aware that most folks reading this will think Texas isn't kewel allowing baiting of a game animal?life is good
Reply:They allow one form of baiting here in NJ. Roads. Deer just love em! (mumbling) stinkin' disease infested giant rats jumpin in front of my truck
Reply:Why dont you just hang it from a tree?
Reply:Originally Posted by fluffOk guys, I am a newbie to the welding world, but have started taking a class. Anyways, I am going to be building some pipe stands for some deer feeders. Just a piece of pipe cemented in the ground, with a piece welded onto the the top at 90 degrees. Kind of like an upside down L. So anyways, I am trying to figure out the easiest way to cut the notch in the pipe that the top pipe will sit in. I know it is done on fences all the time. I am assuming you just take your torch and cut a little notch on each end, but there has got to be some kind of real way to do it. Also, if anybody has made any deer feeder hangers, I would love to hear how you did them. Thanks for your helpFluffDriftwood, Texas
Reply:This is schedule forty galvanized pipe. Here's the first cut Attached Imageslife is good
Reply:The pipe is flipped over and a matching cut is made.You then have a joint Ray Charles could have sewn up. Attached Imageslife is good
Reply:Well then I could do the same thing with my Dewalt cut off saw set at a 45 angle then. I knew it paid to sit here. I'd eventually learn something!Thank you.
Reply:Well, maybe not a 45, but an angle found thru experimentaion.
Reply:Originally Posted by gl1200aWell, maybe not a 45, but an angle found thru experimentaion.
Reply:HarvYour tips and info are great.Here in the Great White NorthMosquitoes can't fly at 40 below
Reply:Why notch the pipe at all?From your diagram and what you're doing, why not just cut the ends at 45 degrees and weld it together to form your L shape. The diagram has a support bracket for strength, wich you could use half inch or three quarter pipe for, and not have to notch that either.You could weld some flat stock over the end you will attach your pully to and not have to cover the hole on the other side either.
Reply:The following is what I use to notch tube/pipe.This was taken froma post in another forum."The chop saw method, if understood, is a science. With known tube size and joint angle, tube can be notched with great accuracy. The notch is achieved by cutting two opposing angles on one end of a piece of tube, to form a point. The cross-section of this cut will be an elliptical cut due to the shape of the tube. Changes in both of the two angled cuts must be made for the intersection angle and the size of the two tubes being joined. The only real limitation is the max angle of the chop saw.You start with what I call the base angle. This is the angle of both cuts if the joint was 90*. For an example, I am fitting Two tubes together that are both 1.75", at an 90* joint. The base angle, or the angle of both cuts is 28*. These two cuts must meet at a point, and the point must also be centered on the tube.Remember your base angle will change with the tube being cut and the tube that you are fitting to.Here are a few examples of base angles...2.0" to 2.0" tube, base angle of 30*1.75" to 1.75" tube, base angle of 28*1.5" to 1.5" tube, base angle of 26*1.25" to 1.25" tube, base angle of 22.5*1" to 1" tube, Base angle of 20*Now to fit different size tubes together1.75" to 2" tube, base angle of 25*1.75" to 1.25" tube, base angle of 45*1.25" to 1.75 tube, base angle of 20*1" to 2" tube, base angle of 12*What if instead of a "T" joint, I want the notched tube at a 15* angle with my first 1.75" tube???? You must start with your base angle, which was 28* for 1.75"(remember above), and subtract 15* from one cut, and add 15* to the other cut to form a perfect notch. So now I must make a 13* cut and an 43* cut with the point centered on the tube. Perfect coped joint, with no grinding."Now knowing these base angles you can cut any angle desired. What ever angle difference there is from 90 you must subtract from one side and add to the other. so if you were to cut a 70* angle for 1.5 on 1.5 tube your cuts would be 6* and 46*.Hope this helps.WildcatLast edited by Wildcat; 02-27-2007 at 09:29 PM.
Reply:ok 2 things with your diagram,you definatly need to use apully system with that much weight and WHY would your boat crank be 8 foot from the ground...lol really though that thing with 3 " pipe would really handle the weather where i live,but is there no way to make it more moble??
Reply:I'm probably going to print this out and hang it on the wall Originally Posted by WildcatThe following is what I use to notch tube/pipe.This was taken froma post in another forum."The chop saw method, if understood, is a science. With known tube size and joint angle, tube can be notched with great accuracy. The notch is achieved by cutting two opposing angles on one end of a piece of tube, to form a point. The cross-section of this cut will be an elliptical cut due to the shape of the tube. Changes in both of the two angled cuts must be made for the intersection angle and the size of the two tubes being joined. The only real limitation is the max angle of the chop saw.You start with what I call the base angle. This is the angle of both cuts if the joint was 90*. For an example, I am fitting Two tubes together that are both 1.75", at an 90* joint. The base angle, or the angle of both cuts is 28*. These two cuts must meet at a point, and the point must also be centered on the tube.Remember your base angle will change with the tube being cut and the tube that you are fitting to.Here are a few examples of base angles...2.0" to 2.0" tube, base angle of 30*1.75" to 1.75" tube, base angle of 28*1.5" to 1.5" tube, base angle of 26*1.25" to 1.25" tube, base angle of 22.5*1" to 1" tube, Base angle of 20*Now to fit different size tubes together1.75" to 2" tube, base angle of 25*1.75" to 1.25" tube, base angle of 45*1.25" to 1.75 tube, base angle of 20*1" to 2" tube, base angle of 12*What if instead of a "T" joint, I want the notched tube at a 15* angle with my first 1.75" tube???? You must start with your base angle, which was 28* for 1.75"(remember above), and subtract 15* from one cut, and add 15* to the other cut to form a perfect notch. So now I must make a 13* cut and an 43* cut with the point centered on the tube. Perfect coped joint, with no grinding."Now knowing these base angles you can cut any angle desired. What ever angle difference there is from 90 you must subtract from one side and add to the other. so if you were to cut a 70* angle for 1.5 on 1.5 tube your cuts would be 6* and 46*.Hope this helps.Wildcat
Reply:there is a neat and free calculator program ..snip.awardspace.comsnip being sawing notch in pipe..it lets you notch any size pipe to saddle any size pipe at any angle.. 2 straight cuts..no grinder, no hole saw.. works very well..
Reply:thanks weldbead! I'm outside cutting pipe right now!I love the cleverness of the people on this website.If I can help you out with a JMR Notcher let me know. It can also be used to drill holes into tube out in the field. The JMR notcher can go up to 2.5" ODhttp://www.jmrmfg.com/featured-tools...-pipe-notcher/"I Build Stuff"www.jmrmfg.comwww.509media.com
Reply:If you want to make a template or draw the layout on the pipe, check out www.pipesaddlelayout.com. |
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发表于 2021-8-31 22:39:49