|
|
I went to look at a cutting torch I found on craigslist and ended up dragging home a Grizzly knee mill instead. I got it unloaded and it is in the position I'd like to set it in. It is currently resting on 1.5" square tubing passing under the fork lift pockets. The tubing is setting on stacks of (3) 2x4s so I could get the pallet jack out from under it.Now comes the fun part - How do I get it down?I don't have anything above it to hook my chain fall to..Thanks in advance for any help!!Miller Syncrowave 180SD
Reply:Build a frame over top of it and hook you chainfall to that. Then cut up the frame afterward. I've had to do that in the past to stack two car trailers. I've also considered doing just that to remove the counter weight from my forklift.My name's not Jim....
Reply:I was in the very same situation about 10 years ago with my mill. I cutup a selection of different thickness wood, and plywood. Used my sleever bar and a block of wood as a fulcrum. Pried up the front of the mill removed the blocking, replaced it with blocking 1/2 less in thickness, moved to the back, and did the same thing, moved back to the front, did the same. Back and forth until the mill was sitting on the concrete floor. Mind you I did this all by myself. Would have been a lot easier with a helper or two! If you can get a couple buddies to help. One on the bar and fulcrum, one to change out the blocking, and the most important position..........................Balance the top of the mill! Dont pay any attention to meIm just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:Get a smaller piece of tubing 3' or so long that will fit inside the ones under the mill. Weld a smaller piece 'bout 3" long across one end, slip the longer end into the tube 12"± and use a small bottle jack under the other end to pick it up. The short piece of tubing is to stop the jack from slipping out. Remove the blocking one piece at a time so you don't end up dumping the mill over.If you have help, you can use CEP's method as well.....Mike
Reply:Hi, You could try using leverage! use a large lever or pry bar, the front part is easy, the back a bit more fiddly as you will have to go from side to side because of the backwall, put a suitable sized block of wood or RHS in front of the mill about the same or slightly higher than the supporting timbers, put the lever over the top of it and under the edge of the mill, press down and raise the front of the mill slightly, get someone to remove a level of wood and lower down, do the same on the back but from one side only at a time, eventually you will be left with one piece of wood left all around, as you remove the last bit you can wriggle the lever out by moving it sideways. These pics are of the one I used to lift off my 2 tonne lathe off the skates when I got it home, however any large decent lever bar should do, I should emphasise "large" because unless it is large you may not get the leverage required to lift it or do it safely. This tool I made is actually a tree root and bamboo cutter but doubles up as a great levering tool. It is in two parts and the solid shaft slides inside the middle tube, when extra leverage is required I just slide the inner shaft out a couple of feet, however a 6ft pry bar would also probably work. The second pic is the unit assembled.When I got to the last level my lathe just slid off the flat end with a small thump and that was it. Looking closely at the pics you supplied you seem to have a small gap at the front between the 2 front corners which would allow you to gently put the mill down and give you enough room just to pull a pry bar out without difficulty. So do the sides at the back first and the front will be a piece of cake to do. Attached ImagesLast edited by Ed.; 06-05-2010 at 07:21 AM.Miller Auto Invision 456 + S-62 wire feederC6240B1 Gap bed lathe16 ft3 air compressor16 speed pedestal drillHafco BS-912 Bandsaw
Reply:Simply use a prybar as suggested, lift up one end at a time remove one of the 3 stacked blocks, lower and repeat on the other side, until it's on the floor. I also used a prybar to position my mill after getting it into the garage and leveling it. The bar I have was a standard 3 foot crowbar and my mill weights quite a bit more than yours...Last edited by BruceTS; 06-05-2010 at 08:38 AM.Synchowave 180SD Bernard 3500SS water coolerMillermatic 200Parker Plasma Tec 40dvOperating Engineers Local 12
Reply:This probably won't help since if you had one, you'd have used it- but I'll mention it anyway in case you have a buddy with one and hadn't considerd it: an engine hoist will often be high enough. When I brought my mill home I had the same issue- I just set the hoist at the lowest weight setting (longest boom-extension) and used a couple of nylon slings, 4 hooks and shackles and the job was simple. One more time that my "little crane" has saved the day. Lincoln AC225 & MigPak 140, Lincoln Magnum SpoolGun, Miller Spectrum 375-X Plasma, Syncrowave 200 TIG, Millermatic 252 MIG, Miller Digital Elite, General 7x12" horiz/vert bandsaw, 3' box/pan brake, 20 ton press, milling machine, 12x28 lathe, etc.
Reply:Cut four wedges the thickness of the gap between floor and mill.Lever up each corner,one at a time,and insert wedges to replace the dunnage.then lever up the mill and pull each wedge a little at a time. That way you don't get the mill tipped off balance.Save the wedges,you will find another use for them.tractor,loader.dozer,backhoe,and all the tools to keep em movin
Reply:The older I get the more I appriciate leverage.tractor,loader.dozer,backhoe,and all the tools to keep em movin
Reply:I used the pry bar method mentioned above. Thank you all for your help!!Miller Syncrowave 180SD
Reply:[QUOTE=7A749;398052]Yea, the pry bar & block by block method works well & can be done solo.I have moved a 5000# lathe off it's blocks the same way. Getting it in the garage on two pallet jacks is something I wouldn't recommend tho. QUOTE]Hi 7A749, that must be one huge lathe you got there!!! Miller Auto Invision 456 + S-62 wire feederC6240B1 Gap bed lathe16 ft3 air compressor16 speed pedestal drillHafco BS-912 Bandsaw
Reply:I used the same method to lift my lathe and put the legs/chip pan under it.I think it was 28".Took me several hours and I cut alot of good lumber into small pieces (three stacks, two to support the lathe,one for a fulcrum)but I got it done alone.Miller a/c-d/c Thunderbolt XLMillermatic 180 Purox O/ASmith Littletorch O/AHobart Champion Elite |
|
发表于 2021-8-31 22:38:54