Advice on these stick weld

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Advice how to make then better looking using 7018 Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I897 using Tapatalk 2 Attached ImagesLincoln 140 Pak MIG Everlast powerarc 140 STLincoln Tombstone
Reply:Rod size, material thickness, amps used...?Travel speed looks a bit fast on the outer two. Center one looks more consistent, but seems a tad tall. Tough to tell much from that angle.The more info we have ( and picts) the better we can help.For 7018, we usually have the students set the machine at 125 amps DC+ and drag the rod on 1/4" or 3/8" material..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:I'm using 1/4 I think I just grabbed it out of pile u used DC+ with 90 amps Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I897 using Tapatalk 2 Attached ImagesLincoln 140 Pak MIG Everlast powerarc 140 STLincoln Tombstone
Reply:What size electrode? 90 amps would be about right for 3/32" but low for 1/8".Airco Ac/Dc 300 HeliwelderMillerMatic 200 (stolen)Miller Maxstar 150STLMiller AEAD200LE (welding and generating power) Hobart MIG
Reply:Weld 2 pieces of metal together. This "pad" stuff is idiotic.Bubble gumTooth pixDuct tapeBlack glueGBMF hammerScrew gun --bad battery (see above)
Reply:It is 3/32 Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I897 using Tapatalk 2Lincoln 140 Pak MIG Everlast powerarc 140 STLincoln Tombstone
Reply:I'm no inspector but the first welds I saw looked good bead width looks good it looks like when it was hot someone dropped it in cold water because its a dull grey color.Lincoln pro core 125 14''chop saw7 inch grinder,2-4.5 inch grinders,electric die grinder.Half inch drillAnd alot of hand tools
Reply:Yah I put it in water right after I weld on it Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I897 using Tapatalk 2Lincoln 140 Pak MIG Everlast powerarc 140 STLincoln Tombstone
Reply:it is a 3/32 rodLincoln 140 Pak MIG Everlast powerarc 140 STLincoln Tombstone
Reply:Don't quench your welds in cold water right after welding. It cools everything too fast and can cause metallurgy issues. Your amps are right on for 3/32 rod. I see porosity at the start of your middle bead. To remedy that, strike your arc 1/2 inch ahead of where you want the bead to start, then move back to where you want to start, shorten the arc and start laying down metal. You have ugly craters at the end of each bead. To remedy that, shorten your arc and pause a second at the end of the bead, then break your arc. That will fill in hose ugly craters.JasonLincoln Idealarc 250 stick/tigThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 52Miller Bobcat 250Torchmate CNC tableThermal Arc Hefty 2Ironworkers Local 720
Reply:There's nothing wrong with running beads on a "pad" to learn. Fill your plate complete with beads. Then flip the plate and cover the other side with beads. Try running your beads right beside each other. Wash each bead 50% into the one beside it. When you get each side filled with one layer of weld, turn the plate 90 degrees and run another layer of weld over the entire plate running across the first layer. Keep doing this for several layers. This technique makes very good use of your material. It makes much better use of your material than welding 2 different pieces of metal together, then throwing them out.If you want to quench your plate with water to cool it, do it after you lay a complete layer of weld on one side.Last edited by snoeproe; 12-10-2013 at 02:15 PM.JasonLincoln Idealarc 250 stick/tigThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 52Miller Bobcat 250Torchmate CNC tableThermal Arc Hefty 2Ironworkers Local 720
Reply:Originally Posted by snoeproeThere's nothing wrong with running beads on a "pad" to learn. Fill your plate complete with beads. Then flip the plate and cover the other side with beads. Try running your beads right beside each other. Wash each bead 50% into the one beside it. When you get each side filled with one layer of weld, turn the plate 90 degrees and run another layer of weld over the entire plate running across the first layer. Keep doing this for several layers. This technique makes very good use of your material. It makes much better use of your material than welding 2 different pieces of metal together, then throwing them out.If you want to quench your plate with water to cool it, do it after you lay a complete layer of weld on one side.
Reply:Originally Posted by snoeproeThere's nothing wrong with running beads on a "pad" to learn. Fill your plate complete with beads. Then flip the plate and cover the other side with beads. Try running your beads right beside each other. Wash each bead 50% into the one beside it. When you get each side filled with one layer of weld, turn the plate 90 degrees and run another layer of weld over the entire plate running across the first layer. Keep doing this for several layers. This technique makes very good use of your material. It makes much better use of your material than welding 2 different pieces of metal together, then throwing them out.If you want to quench your plate with water to cool it, do it after you lay a complete layer of weld on one side.
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWThat's the only part I might disagree with. On a small plate it's not a big deal to run several beads, but on bigger pieces, the plate heats up too much after a few beads. I see this over and over again at the tech school. Guys won't cool their pieces. They'll do some really nice beads, but then can't replicate them on a cold plate. The reason is the extra heat in the plate acts like they cranked up the amps. It really F's with guys when they get to horizontal, vertical and overhead where those extra "amps" will make things uncontrollable.I like to tell them if they can handle the plate with their bare hands, it's cool enough to run another pass. If not, they either need to set it aside to cool and weld on another piece, or  they need to dunk it in the quench tank.
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWThat's the only part I might disagree with. On a small plate it's not a big deal to run several beads, but on bigger pieces, the plate heats up too much after a few beads. I see this over and over again at the tech school. Guys won't cool their pieces. They'll do some really nice beads, but then can't replicate them on a cold plate. The reason is the extra heat in the plate acts like they cranked up the amps. It really F's with guys when they get to horizontal, vertical and overhead where those extra "amps" will make things uncontrollable.I like to tell them if they can handle the plate with their bare hands, it's cool enough to run another pass. If not, they either need to set it aside to cool and weld on another piece, or  they need to dunk it in the quench tank.