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An example of a bad torque tube design in a commercial trailer

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发表于 2021-8-31 22:38:45 | 显示全部楼层 |阅读模式
I didn't want to get too far off the path on some of the other trailer threads so I'll put what I found today here. This guy was parked near me today and as I'm always interested in trailers I walked over for a look. This trailer had several things that I thought were of bad design but I only took pics of the torque tube because I thought it showed what I was saying when I said that a poor job of putting one in was worse than none. According to the guy driving this trailer is about 6 month old. They use it to haul bundles of lumber, that is why they went with one with the torque tube. They had some trouble when putting a bundle on one side in the front with the trailer twisting enough to make it tough to get the other side on with a forklift. The fist pic is the brand of trailer. The second is the whole torque tube. The last ones show the cracks already starting. This is a particularly bad design because it is just not mounted to the main rails good enough. That is what I said, nothing wrong with the tube, you just need to make sure everything is strong enough to take the extra stress.
Reply:AHHH you're just teasing us    Trailers of this size, i know nothing about but from your pics i agree for 6 month of use it's aging rapidly.What are you proposing as proper torque tube design?
Reply:I fully agree there. That's no where near enough strength to handle the tube. The trailer I did had several 10"-12" I beams run across the main frame rails. I caught at least 4 of them maybe another (it's been a number of years since I did it) with I think it was a 6" pipe. I had to cut a hole in the front rail by the goose neck to get the pipe through as well as all of the I-beam cross members I went through. I'm pretty sure I just butted it up against the last cross member. I'm sure I worked pretty hard getting a good sound weld at every joint.  I wish that trailer was still around so I could check it and get pics.Millermatic 252XMT 304'sDynasty 280DXHypertherm PowerMax 1250Miller Trailblazer 302 EFIOptima PulserXR feeder and XR Edge gun and more athttp://members.dslextreme.com/users/waynecook/index.htm
Reply:Originally Posted by snowbirdAHHH you're just teasing us    Trailers of this size, i know nothing about but from your pics i agree for 6 month of use it's aging rapidly.What are you proposing as proper torque tube design?
Reply:That's the reason I don't buy a store bought trailer like that. You should see some of the welds on the new junk going down the road. And still overpriced.Arcon Workhorse 300MSPowcon 400SMTPowcon SM400 x 2Powcon SM3001968 SA200 Redface1978 SA250 DieselMiller Super 32P FeederPre 1927 American 14" High Duty LatheK&T Milwaukee 2H Horizontal MillBryan
Reply:I have wondered about a torque tube for a 40' float.  My floats are more like oilfield trailers, with a swing down type landing gear instead of crank down, and a lifting plate on the front.  We used to use them not only to haul pipe, but also to haul multiple pieces of equipment from jobsite to jobsite.  I have a dock at the shop that you can back up to for loading or unloading, but in the field you us a winch mounted on your tractor to lower the front of the float to the ground for loading or unloading.  usually, you can balance the load from side to side pretty well, but sometimes you would have more weight on one side of the trailer than the other.  You always want to be on as level of ground as possible, but I have had loads that as soon as the trailer went off the tailboard, where only the winch cable was holding it, one corner of the float would drop a foot or more because of an un-balanced load...  I've also had a chain break holding equipment on the trailer, from crossing a ditch at an angle and the trailer twisting.Last edited by handtpipeline; 02-03-2014 at 11:06 PM.-------------------------Chemetron AC/DC 300 HFSnap-On MM300L Lincoln SP140 Lincoln AC/DC 225g Lincoln SA200 Lincoln SA200 Miller Bobcat 225GVictor torchesH&M and Mathey beveling machinesMcElroy Plastic pipe fusion
Reply:I think what you're seeing here is a HAZ failure in a moment area.By placing the tube in the crossmember full height it made for a weld that completely bisects the web from top to bottom.  Because this area is subject to torsional load it's constantly flexing next to the weld.  The weld made the base metal brittle in the HAZ, and it cracked next to the weld.  The ends of the crossmember where it meets the frame rail doesn't seem to have suffered though.Had there been either a smaller tube, or a deeper channel, this probably wouldn't have happened.  Again, you're seeing the dangers brought on by welding in any area but the neutral axis of the web.  The closer you get to the web the more problems you create.  You've messed with the ductility designed into the structural shape.Any plating/gusseting on the frame rail end of the crossmember would also have to be carefully considered.  A full height crossmember would also tend to bisect the web.  And any plating between the crossmember and the frame rail would have to be held to a minimum, or at least designed to prevent a buildup of stress across the web.  A diamond shaped plate would probably work best as it makes for more of a horizontal weld between the neutral axis, and the area near the flange.  Same principle as a fishplate that's tapered on both ends.  I still think a full depth crossmember would be a mistake though, and a waste of material.I would imagine that more crossmembers along the length of the tube would be beneficial too.  Remember though, that each time the tube pierces a crossmember there's a weld around the circumference of the tube which weakens the tube.Bottom line is..........the gooseneck is a wonderful design in general, but I think that manufacturers, and consumers, have exceeded it's design capabilities.  You simply can't work around the tripod support which limits it's usefulness. The same problems occur with fifth wheel trailers too.  When I jackknife my 45' float it can become real wobbly when the tractor is at a right angle to the trailer.  This happens because the fifth wheel is hinged to flex fore and aft.  It is real stable when the truck/trailer are in a straight line, but it's hinged just like a gooseneck trailer ball when jackknifing, and the trailer wants to tip to the side in the fifth wheel area.  I've never liked that tendency,,,,,especially with a high centered load."Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
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