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Hi everyone,This is my first welder, and first time ever to attempt to arc weld. The deal was sweetened with plenty of cups, tungstan, flow meter, 2 foot pedals, coolant tank and pump, argon tank , and other items I do not know. I am hoping I can get some guidance. It came with a hood with a fixed plastic lens. It came with some new E7018, so i started with that. It took a few attempts to just strike and arc and not have it light. Then I got oriented to the black shiwing the arc when the electrode is lit. On the third or fourth try I got it lit an was able to lay some beads. I was amazed how fast the electrode burned. could easily go thru more than a dozen in a half hour or so. One question is about the setting of amps on this machine. I started on medium position, DCEP, and about It took a few stopband walk to the machine and turn the big knob in front. Finally at 96%, it lit and stayed lit. We went thru 4 in a short time, and according to the setting, it seemed high and that is what the owner of the welder said also, he tried it first. Does that seem like it was too high. My buddy, the owner layed down some really nice beads. Stacked dime look. I only got a very small amount of a 6" long weld on .5" A36.I know it is just practice, but should I continue to practice with this fixed lens hood, or get a decent auto darkening?What is the contactor control for?Each foot pedal , one is blue and one is green, with a three pronged and a two pronged for the contactor control. I know this is just fo tig, but does the pedal do more than just change the amperage. Thank You very Much for any help and advice Raf
Reply:Seems high to me. assuming you were using 1/8 inch 7018 electrodes, you should be at about 125-130 amps, maybe a tad higher or lower depending on conditions. in mid range at 96% I would assume you were getting pretty close to 180 amps, which is too much for an 1/8th rod. If you were running a 5/32 rod, then maybe that is in the right ball park. 7018 shouldn't have the stacked dimes look however, it should be smooth with fine ripples.WRT the hood, I like a fixed hood better as it gives me more clarity. That said an AD hood is good for learning I think. I couldn't have learned (self taught) without one. The contactor initiates the arc/kicks in the power (think of it as an on/off swith) and the other plug controls the amps. You are correct it is mostly used for TIG. For stick I would set the contactor switch and the amperage control to "standard" and HF to off, and current to DC reverseMiller Multimatic 255
Reply:Y Originally Posted by Louie1961Seems high to me. assuming you were using 1/8 inch 7018 electrodes, you should be at about 125-130 amps, maybe a tad higher or lower depending on conditions. in mid range at 96% I would assume you were getting pretty close to 180 amps, which is too much for an 1/8th rod. If you were running a 5/32 rod, then maybe that is in the right ball park. 7018 shouldn't have the stacked dimes look however, it should be smooth with fine ripples.WRT the hood, I like a fixed hood better as it gives me more clarity. That said an AD hood is good for learning I think. I couldn't have learned (self taught) without one. The contactor initiates the arc/kicks in the power (think of it as an on/off swith) and the other plug controls the amps. You are correct it is mostly used for TIG. For stick I would set the contactor switch and the amperage control to "standard" and HF to off, and current to DC reverse
Reply:straight polarity means DC electrode negative (DCEN). Reverse polarity means electrode positive (DCEP). If you had the lever in the up position, I believe that is straight polarity or DCEN. I think for most 7018, you will want the polarity selector in the down position for DCEP. That could explain some of your issues, yes.Miller Multimatic 255
Reply:Thank you so much, i will change the position and lower the dial to 50%, and start from there. Raf
Reply:DC Straight (DCEN) will give you a higher electrode melt off rate, lower penetration on most rods. Pull the lever down to "reverse" (DCEP). Welding on AC is somewhere between straight and reverse as far as deposition, for those rods that will run AC or DC.A bit confusing, but there is some good info here : http://www.hobartwelders.com/weldtal...P-GET-IT-RIGHT!Last edited by Oldendum; 04-19-2015 at 04:47 PM."USMCPOP" First-born son: KIA Iraq 1/26/05Syncrowave 250 w/ Coolmate 3Dialarc 250, Idealarc 250SP-175 +Firepower TIG 160S (gave the TA 161 STL to the son)Lincwelder AC180C (1952)Victor & Smith O/A torchesMiller spot welder |
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发表于 2021-8-31 22:38:42