Thinking about building a wood burning heater for shop....

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I searched the forum thinking somebody might have done this before but couldn't find nothing.  I've been thinking about a wood burning heater for my shop being I got plenty of wood to supply it for free.  I have'nt been able to locate one for sale locally though.  Has anybody built one before my boss at my old work built one I'm thinking about modeling it after.  I'm thinking I can buy 1 4x8 sheet of 1/4" steel and make the heater 2x2x3 and maybe framing with 1" square tubing to help keep from bowing.  Any thoughts ideas or pics from ya'll on some you may have built maybe pics.
Reply:This one here was one of the best I've seen on the forum. There are a bunch of others as well. Search for things like "wood stove" or "camp stove." There are a few good ideas with pictures from members.Lincoln Precision Tig 185Lincoln Power Mig 256Hypertherm PM 45Everlast 140STSmith O/A
Reply:If I were going to build one I would model it after a Fisher wood heater.  Just do a Google search and there will be plenty.  Good solid stove with 1/4 in plate.  Pay special attention to the air control to regulate heat and add firebrick.
Reply:I'd think again about building a wood stove for your shop. You must inform your insurance company when you install a wood burning stove in your home or shop. If you don't inform the insurance company about it and your shop or home burns down, they will not pay you for your loss. That being said, most insurance companies will require your wood burning stove to be UL or CSA certified before they will insure you for loss. If you want to do it all under the table and not inform the insurance company, your taking a big chance.Menards, Fleet Farm, Lowes etc all sell wood burning stoves.Last edited by snoeproe; 12-18-2013 at 05:13 PM.JasonLincoln Idealarc 250 stick/tigThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 52Miller Bobcat 250Torchmate CNC tableThermal Arc Hefty 2Ironworkers Local 720
Reply:Originally Posted by snoeproeI'd think again about building a wood stove for your shop. You must inform your insurance company when you install a wood burning stove in your home or shop. If you don't inform the insurance company about it and your shop or home burns down, they will not pay you for your loss. That being said, most insurance companies will require your wood burning stove to be UL or CSA certified before they will insure you for loss. If you want to do it all under the table and not inform the insurance company, your taking a big chance.Menards, Fleet Farm, Lowes etc all sell wood burning stoves.
Reply:I went through all this when I installed a wood pellet burning stove in my house. It is in the same class as a wood burning stove and is treated the same way by the insurance companies.JasonLincoln Idealarc 250 stick/tigThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 52Miller Bobcat 250Torchmate CNC tableThermal Arc Hefty 2Ironworkers Local 720
Reply:Here ya go. Stuff a big stick in her to stay warm.55 gallon drum stoves all across the Net...
Reply:How big is your shop? How cold do you anticipate outdoor temperature? Is it insulated? Do you have a pedestrian door or will you need to open an overhead door? Have you priced a metal chimney?I'm in the process of putting a chimney and furnace in my garage. I needed 20 feet of Selkirk 8" stainless chimney. The cost is staggering! With a $200 used wood furnace included it will total $3000. A ceiling hung through the wall gas heater would cost a third of that.That said, I have a cellar stove that begs to be copied. It is 1/4" hot rolled 16-1/2" wide,26-1/2" high, 27-1/2" long, The corners are 1/4" x 2" angle extending about 12" below the firebox as legs. A 1/4" x 7" diameter stove pipe collar passes out the back, below it a horizontal shelf extends about 16 inches from the back forming a baffle. The door on mine is cast iron, this would be a challenge for me to build. I would build one from 1/2" plate, with the front panel surrounding it of the same plate. It could be faced with two 1/4 x 1" square frames one enough larger than the other to fit 3/4" fiberglass rope between. Glue it in with pure silicone RTV high temp as a door seal. Line the sides with one row of 1" thick fire bricks stood on end. Bind the top of them with 1-1/4" angle. Bind the bottom by laying more 1" firebricks on the bottom. Mine produces about 45000BTUIf you have an interest let me know. I'll get pictures and more detail.
Reply:Originally Posted by sky hy ironmanHere ya go. Stuff a big stick in her to stay warm.55 gallon drum stoves all across the Net...
Reply:Good topic!I'd say 1/4 is too thin unless lined.If you can make the fire-box large enough to accept an old mattress, that'd be handy. Seriously though...There are lots of theories on burn paths and smoke re-burning and such that you'll have to pick from.But one  key to any efficient stove is that it should be practically air tight except for what the operator lets in. And a big part of being air-tight is having good door design. So I'll pick at door design a minute.A door should seal well and not warp. A door design that I like is a double-wall with air space in its core. Of course a hollow door can be built light and strong, but with a flow-through design, where incoming combustion air is drawn in through the door's top, to flow down through the door and out low into the fire-box, it's better yet.  The air flow-through keeps the door cool and not prone to warp and at the same time combustion air is pre-heated. You probably could start building a door before all of your stove's other design details are gelled.Next up: handles, latches and hinges. Who's got what?Anxious to see it.(insert popcorn-eating emoticon here)Good LuckLast edited by denrep; 12-18-2013 at 09:23 PM.
Reply:Look up rocket stoves, I believe there was a thread on here somewhere recently that delved into the building of one.
Reply:I thought this design was pretty clever http://alt-nrg.org/rocket.html
Reply:This is also an option if you want to go with pellets.  Very clever design:
Reply:I'm going to have to watch the video above tomorrow and study the rocket heaters some.  Been busy the last couple of days and have'nt had time to get on here.  Right now I'm still looking for a used heater, if that don't work out here in the next couple of days I'm about to go buy the supplys and start building.  My shop is solid foam insulation on doors and walls and is a 30x40, plans for now if I build 1 is to make it 2x2x3 so I only have to buy one 4x8 sheet of metal and vent it though a sealed board through the window and have it on caster wheels so I can move it out of the way in the summer.  I'm just wanting to get it done cheap as I can but have a good heater in the process.
Reply:Originally Posted by MinnesotaDaveHeck yeah - used to have one until the insurance company got tight on that stuff Heated my 26' x 32' shop even at  -20F Have a normal, boring one now, and it's a little too small for the space....Willie B - building block chimneys with a flue liner is much cheaper. Did your local codes prevent this?I think my total for blocks, liner tiles, and mortar was under $200 (in about 1996)
Reply:Originally Posted by serious_leeThis is also an option if you want to go with pellets.  Very clever design:
Reply:Originally Posted by Willie B1974 I built a block chimney for my first shop, cycling between cold and hot destroyed it in 6 or 7 years . The new one is 20 feet, (two story building + steep roof).In that building I built a double barrel stove, used it several years, gave it to someone 50 miles away, who later sold his house. I later had occasion to enter a camp a few miles from home, there was my stove! Its new owner worked with the new owner of the house where I last saw it. Small world! That would make heat!
Reply:Originally Posted by MinnesotaDaveDouble barrel 55 gal drums must give off crazy heat My block chimmney is doing pretty good so far, this summer I'll have to replace the upper 5 blocks. Not too bad I guess.
Reply:Originally Posted by M J DBetter have an endless supply of wood for those barrel stoves. I think more heat goes up the chimney than in the shop.
Reply:Originally Posted by SuperArcTrue, but if you add a chimney baffle and control the air intake + exhaust! the fire burns slower with great efficiency.  Also, a baffle keeps the heat within the barrel and doesn't escape of the chimney as easily.
Reply:Originally Posted by MinnesotaDaveUnfortunately true based on my experiences with my insurance company.The inspections included pics of the UL tag. He explained it the same way - without an approved stove, losses may not be covered.
Reply:Originally Posted by Luke87I'm going to have to watch the video above tomorrow and study the rocket heaters some.  Been busy the last couple of days and have'nt had time to get on here.  Right now I'm still looking for a used heater, if that don't work out here in the next couple of days I'm about to go buy the supplys and start building.  My shop is solid foam insulation on doors and walls and is a 30x40, plans for now if I build 1 is to make it 2x2x3 so I only have to buy one 4x8 sheet of metal and vent it though a sealed board through the window and have it on caster wheels so I can move it out of the way in the summer.  I'm just wanting to get it done cheap as I can but have a good heater in the process.
Reply:Originally Posted by BurpeeMan. The fact that this is even a topic confirms me leaving that pathetic joke of a country. Nazi, fascist, satanic empire ( look up fascist---it has nothing to do with Barry)I need to go barf and put out food for our air force(toucans).
Reply:I've got a big modine LP hanging heater that we took out of a school auto shop. at -30 I can have my garage up to 60 in under 30 minutes. Insurance company didn't even batt an eye at it. It is big though.
Reply:Originally Posted by MinnesotaDaveGood lord - do you have any post without your annoying anti-American bull$hit?Hey, you don't live here, you don't like it here, everyone knows - stfu....and have a good day.Originally Posted by snoeproeYour going to vent the stove through a board in a window?I hope you will be using what's called a wall thimble. This device allows a 3 " air gap between your chimney pipe and the wood. You should also be using double walled and insulated stainless Selkirk chimney when going through a wall of roof. That's code for wood burning heaters where I live This ensures nothing gets hot and no chance of fire.
Reply:Originally Posted by MinnesotaDaveDouble barrel 55 gal drums must give off crazy heat My block chimmney is doing pretty good so far, this summer I'll have to replace the upper 5 blocks. Not too bad I guess.