Yes it's another welder cart

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Well it's only taken 5 years and 3 interrupted attempts but I've finally built my TIG cart. I was always going to build one for my Dynasty 200DX since the day I bought it. But every time I've started building it trying to take my time and getting everything the way I wanted work always got in the way. I finally gave up and decided to throw one together the way I've done all my other carts.  Of course it figures that I'll get this done just before selling my 200DX but that's ok I built it to handle the 280DX that's on it's way.   Still some finish work to do as well as painting but for about 1 1/2 days of build I think it's come out ok. Millermatic 252XMT 304'sDynasty 280DXHypertherm PowerMax 1250Miller Trailblazer 302 EFIOptima PulserXR feeder and XR Edge gun and more athttp://members.dslextreme.com/users/waynecook/index.htm
Reply:I like the drawers too.     Today must cart day. I posted one for my 211.
Reply:Originally Posted by tackitI like the drawers, tall wheels the way you mounted the cooler and store the torch hose, good job irish.
Reply:Very nice setup . I like the drawer ideas so when i make my cart again i will incorporate some myself. Hope you don't mind me stealing some of your ideas mate.
Reply:Few years back I purchased Cart Model K520 from Lincoln Electric for $79.00 at Home Depot. This days is a better idea to built it. Yours look great.
Reply:Originally Posted by tackitI know what you mean about flats spots,  same thing happened to me with the wheels I had on my 180 SD Syncro's cart.  Both are nice builds irish.  Maybe you could mount a cash register on the Dynasty cart.
Reply:What the hell do you pull some of those with? Peterbilt? I Like your drawers and especially the large rear wheels. My shop floor has cracks and small wheels no worky well. Did you put drawer guides in? Nice job.Arcon Workhorse 300MSPowcon 400SMTPowcon SM400 x 2Powcon SM3001968 SA200 Redface1978 SA250 DieselMiller Super 32P FeederPre 1927 American 14" High Duty LatheK&T Milwaukee 2H Horizontal MillBryan
Reply:Originally Posted by blawlessWhat the hell do you pull some of those with? Peterbilt? I Like your drawers and especially the large rear wheels. My shop floor has cracks and small wheels no worky well. Did you put drawer guides in? Nice job.
Reply:Easier to double as a tool tray without guides.Arcon Workhorse 300MSPowcon 400SMTPowcon SM400 x 2Powcon SM3001968 SA200 Redface1978 SA250 DieselMiller Super 32P FeederPre 1927 American 14" High Duty LatheK&T Milwaukee 2H Horizontal MillBryan
Reply:Originally Posted by blawlessEasier to double as a tool tray without guides.
Reply:Got a little more work done on the cart. When we redid the cooler I added a 30psi pressure switch on the output. Today I finally got it wired so now if the cooler isn't on or working I can't turn the welder on with the foot pedal or hand control. Cost a little money but it's cheap compared to what I've had to pay for melted cables in the past.   Also added some rod storage. Attached ImagesMillermatic 252XMT 304'sDynasty 280DXHypertherm PowerMax 1250Miller Trailblazer 302 EFIOptima PulserXR feeder and XR Edge gun and more athttp://members.dslextreme.com/users/waynecook/index.htm
Reply:It's for my fail safe pressure switch on my cooler. If I plug my water cooled torches into that plug then the welder won't come on unless I've got 30 psi pressure coming out of the cooler. No more melted down power cables.If I use a air cooled torch I can just go straight to the welder.Millermatic 252XMT 304'sDynasty 280DXHypertherm PowerMax 1250Miller Trailblazer 302 EFIOptima PulserXR feeder and XR Edge gun and more athttp://members.dslextreme.com/users/waynecook/index.htm
Reply:Thanks.  Yeah I've been wavering on the color to paint it. Might need to get out the air brush on this one.Millermatic 252XMT 304'sDynasty 280DXHypertherm PowerMax 1250Miller Trailblazer 302 EFIOptima PulserXR feeder and XR Edge gun and more athttp://members.dslextreme.com/users/waynecook/index.htm
Reply:That turned out nice. You should look into getting started in welding. Prolly have to buy some "good" equipment. Haha.Arcon Workhorse 300MSPowcon 400SMTPowcon SM400 x 2Powcon SM3001968 SA200 Redface1978 SA250 DieselMiller Super 32P FeederPre 1927 American 14" High Duty LatheK&T Milwaukee 2H Horizontal MillBryan
Reply:Thanks. I'm still figuring on some more mods before I call it finished and paint. Yeah I know I need to get rid of all these junk tools.Millermatic 252XMT 304'sDynasty 280DXHypertherm PowerMax 1250Miller Trailblazer 302 EFIOptima PulserXR feeder and XR Edge gun and more athttp://members.dslextreme.com/users/waynecook/index.htm
Reply:Outstanding build irish
Reply:Originally Posted by richeyOutstanding build irish
Reply:Here's some more shots of the safety setup on my cooler.  and some shots of the quick connect I modified for the gas.Millermatic 252XMT 304'sDynasty 280DXHypertherm PowerMax 1250Miller Trailblazer 302 EFIOptima PulserXR feeder and XR Edge gun and more athttp://members.dslextreme.com/users/waynecook/index.htm
Reply:Awesome idea and job on the safety pressure switch.  Cart too. Not sure how I missed this thread.MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:Thanks.  I'm bad about getting interrupted and turning off the cooler because it's so noisy then going back and forgetting to turn it on. I've done that enough times to easily pay for the parts to build the safety.  Talking about the cooler when we had it apart cleaning it up I added some sound deadening material inside the box. It's helped with the noise. I'm still planning on adding some more and boxing it in with louvers for air flow to help even more.Millermatic 252XMT 304'sDynasty 280DXHypertherm PowerMax 1250Miller Trailblazer 302 EFIOptima PulserXR feeder and XR Edge gun and more athttp://members.dslextreme.com/users/waynecook/index.htm
Reply:Most of the noise that I object to is the fan noise. I hate noisy fans and constant wind noise. The pump sometimes makes a little noise but nothing like the fan. As for the mounts the whole thing is sitting on rubber strips stuck to the cart frame.  There's no provision for powering with this welder and I'm not paying what Miller wants for the option. Besides the fact that I might not always be using it with a water cooled torch.Millermatic 252XMT 304'sDynasty 280DXHypertherm PowerMax 1250Miller Trailblazer 302 EFIOptima PulserXR feeder and XR Edge gun and more athttp://members.dslextreme.com/users/waynecook/index.htm
Reply:I'm sure the CM3 is a great cooler and I do like the wheel. I was looking into incorporating something like that on mine but backed out when I saw the prices at McMaster-Carr. I considered other options but didn't really have time for them. I also considered a flow switch instead of a pressure switch but finally settled on the pressure.  I've got one of those 115v bypass rated diaphragm pumps brand new sitting around here somewhere. There's also a relief valve and there's a pile of stainless panels half welded together in the corner for a tank from where I was going to build a pump to get away from the noise and size of the Bernard in one of my earlier attempts at a cart. But like I said at the start I've attempted to do this before and get all the details the way I wanted but always got side tracked by paying work.  It all boiled down to the fact that I have the Bernard and it didn't take much to clean it up and make it ready to use. Thus that's what I used so I wouldn't end up with a fourth failed cart attempt.  I even considered getting the CM1.3 that goes with the 280 for a little bit but decided I would rather put that money in other directions.Millermatic 252XMT 304'sDynasty 280DXHypertherm PowerMax 1250Miller Trailblazer 302 EFIOptima PulserXR feeder and XR Edge gun and more athttp://members.dslextreme.com/users/waynecook/index.htm
Reply:Originally Posted by 7A749Ok, that makes sense. i was wondering where it was Great idea. Of course, great ideas are everyday at your shop man. You need to paint it pink & put pretty flowers on it now. That way it will blend right in with all your other equipment You know I'm just kidding Wayne.
Reply:Originally Posted by irish fixitI'm sure the CM3 is a great cooler and I do like the wheel. I was looking into incorporating something like that on mine but backed out when I saw the prices at McMaster-Carr. I considered other options but didn't really have time for them. I also considered a flow switch instead of a pressure switch but finally settled on the pressure.  I've got one of those 115v bypass rated diaphragm pumps brand new sitting around here somewhere. There's also a relief valve and there's a pile of stainless panels half welded together in the corner for a tank from where I was going to build a pump to get away from the noise and size of the Bernard in one of my earlier attempts at a cart. But like I said at the start I've attempted to do this before and get all the details the way I wanted but always got side tracked by paying work.  It all boiled down to the fact that I have the Bernard and it didn't take much to clean it up and make it ready to use. Thus that's what I used so I wouldn't end up with a fourth failed cart attempt.  I even considered getting the CM1.3 that goes with the 280 for a little bit but decided I would rather put that money in other directions.
Reply:Originally Posted by Silicon-basedI was also considering the CM1.3 but I talked to Miller this morning and they confirmed my suspicion that it has no power switch. Since I am not paying $600 for the CPS option either, I'm back to the CM3. I have a CM3 on another welder, and I agree with Steve it's the best cooler they make.BTW, you can get that paddle wheel flow indicator in the CM3 from miller4less.com for $25 or so. I was thinking about just building a cooler since I have a couple of Procon pumps but right now I would just rather buy one and weld. If I don't see a good used one soon I will probably just get this:http://www.brweldingsupplies.com/mil...043810-043007/Seems hard to beat with free shipping.Also really like your pressure switch idea. Might have to steal that one myself. JohnYeah when you work for your self your time isn't your own.  I did manage to use mine a little today. I could of done them with MIG but decide to use the TIG.Millermatic 252XMT 304'sDynasty 280DXHypertherm PowerMax 1250Miller Trailblazer 302 EFIOptima PulserXR feeder and XR Edge gun and more athttp://members.dslextreme.com/users/waynecook/index.htm
Reply:A little more work on my cart today.  First three show the sound absorbing material I added to the cooler. The yellow is some high temp I already had and had put into the cooler earlier.The gray is some that I got in later and finally installed today. I also added a baffle on the front and put some material on it. The baffle helps a good bit and cleans up the look of the cart from the front. I also changed the position of the pressure switch and came up with a cover to go on it. It's a 3/4" pipe thread protector that I taped on. Millermatic 252XMT 304'sDynasty 280DXHypertherm PowerMax 1250Miller Trailblazer 302 EFIOptima PulserXR feeder and XR Edge gun and more athttp://members.dslextreme.com/users/waynecook/index.htm
Reply:AAAAAAAAAAAARG!!!!!!!!  Well after going to all the trouble to add the pressure gauge and switch to prevent trouble with my tig hoses I still had trouble this week.   I had a little job that required a good bit of amps (fairly hefty chunk of aluminum). I was having trouble with contamination so it was short hot bursts with clean up between them.  I got one side about done (all of 2" long) and felt this pop in my hand. I look down and see coolant leaking from the torch.   Not happy at all. Fortunately my new torches had come in so I quickly rigged the new CK300 onto the welder and finish the job.   Anyway yesterday about the end of the day I decide to take the torch apart and see the damage. Fortunately it looks like it just burst the input hose at the torch. Although I know the power hose got hot as well since the whole cable was warm after the blow out the day before.   I'm still not 100% certain what caused the problem. I figure one of two things. Either the torch got stopped up or the return quick coupling wasn't fully seated. I originally was sure it was the torch stopped up since last Sat I cleaned the screen on the pump while I was doing the sound deadening. Despite the fact that I recirculated the coolant for a while after that I figured I'd knocked some stuff loose while cleaning the screen and it had stopped the torch up (the screen was really bad when I pulled it out and it took a while to clean). But after talking to my help it turns out that one of them had leaned against the cart earlier and knocked the outlet quick coupling loose. They put it back but the return coupling might of been loosened and them not notice it. So I'm still not sure of the whole actual cause (I was in a bad mood and a hurry when I took them loose so didn't notice if the return was already loose).   Before learning of the quick coupling episode I was figuring trash so the first thing I did was check the flow through the old torch. It wasn't what it was supposed to be taking over 1 minute to put out a pint. Since I'd used this torch a lot with city water I figured it could of somewhat stopped up from that. But just to be sure I decided to check the new torch. It took about 42 seconds to get the pint. Still not as much as is really called for. While doing this I noticed that my once perfectly clear coolant was now yellow. Not happy about that I decide to rig up with a lawn mower filter and recirculate the coolant back to the tank. While that's going on I hook up the new torch to the hot water outlet and back flush it to get rid of any junk that might of gotten in it. I run it that way for a while and then take the pressure regulator I have on my adapter off and run it that way for a total of over 30 minutes. It was still turning the water coming out a little bit yellow when I finally quit. I flush the old torch the same way and actually get better flow through it than the new torch before I'm done with it.  In the mean time the water is still recirculating on the cooler. I look at the filter and find it black. Not being sure just where the black is coming from (I figured either the vanes or some crude that got flushed from the overheated torch hose). I decide the change to a new filter and run it for a while. It runs for 20 minute without getting much black on it so I then take the screen out of the pump and run it for about 1 1/2 hours through the filter. In the end that filter turns pretty black as well.   While doing the flushing one of my more savvy customer/friends shows up. We get to talking about putting a filter on the output of the pump. It needs to be there since to fine a filter on the suction will starve the pump and after the torch on the return line is to late. But it needs to be able to take some pressure. We finally hit upon a oil filter. It's rated for pressure and I've got several small ones in stock for my welder. Thus today I worked on building a stainless filter adapter for the oil filter and installing it.  I've also got a flow switch, flow indicator, and a new pump coming. Hopefully when I get through with this I'm going to have it bullet proof. Millermatic 252XMT 304'sDynasty 280DXHypertherm PowerMax 1250Miller Trailblazer 302 EFIOptima PulserXR feeder and XR Edge gun and more athttp://members.dslextreme.com/users/waynecook/index.htm
Reply:I've had a few issues in the past but most of them where my fault. This time I wasn't expecting it.   Thanks for the offer. So far I'm not in need. I just shortened the hose put it back. It's still to long anyway.Millermatic 252XMT 304'sDynasty 280DXHypertherm PowerMax 1250Miller Trailblazer 302 EFIOptima PulserXR feeder and XR Edge gun and more athttp://members.dslextreme.com/users/waynecook/index.htm
Reply:Looks great. Good idea to put the drawer on top!
Reply:Originally Posted by irish fixitAAAAAAAAAAAARG!!!!!!!!  Well after going to all the trouble to add the pressure gauge and switch to prevent trouble with my tig hoses I still had trouble this week.   I had a little job that required a good bit of amps (fairly hefty chunk of aluminum). I was having trouble with contamination so it was short hot bursts with clean up between them.  I got one side about done (all of 2" long) and felt this pop in my hand. I look down and see coolant leaking from the torch.   Not happy at all. Fortunately my new torches had come in so I quickly rigged the new CK300 onto the welder and finish the job.   Anyway yesterday about the end of the day I decide to take the torch apart and see the damage. Fortunately it looks like it just burst the input hose at the torch. Although I know the power hose got hot as well since the whole cable was warm after the blow out the day before.   I'm still not 100% certain what caused the problem. I figure one of two things. Either the torch got stopped up or the return quick coupling wasn't fully seated. I originally was sure it was the torch stopped up since last Sat I cleaned the screen on the pump while I was doing the sound deadening. Despite the fact that I recirculated the coolant for a while after that I figured I'd knocked some stuff loose while cleaning the screen and it had stopped the torch up (the screen was really bad when I pulled it out and it took a while to clean). But after talking to my help it turns out that one of them had leaned against the cart earlier and knocked the outlet quick coupling loose. They put it back but the return coupling might of been loosened and them not notice it. So I'm still not sure of the whole actual cause (I was in a bad mood and a hurry when I took them loose so didn't notice if the return was already loose).   Before learning of the quick coupling episode I was figuring trash so the first thing I did was check the flow through the old torch. It wasn't what it was supposed to be taking over 1 minute to put out a pint. Since I'd used this torch a lot with city water I figured it could of somewhat stopped up from that. But just to be sure I decided to check the new torch. It took about 42 seconds to get the pint. Still not as much as is really called for. While doing this I noticed that my once perfectly clear coolant was now yellow. Not happy about that I decide to rig up with a lawn mower filter and recirculate the coolant back to the tank. While that's going on I hook up the new torch to the hot water outlet and back flush it to get rid of any junk that might of gotten in it. I run it that way for a while and then take the pressure regulator I have on my adapter off and run it that way for a total of over 30 minutes. It was still turning the water coming out a little bit yellow when I finally quit. I flush the old torch the same way and actually get better flow through it than the new torch before I'm done with it.  In the mean time the water is still recirculating on the cooler. I look at the filter and find it black. Not being sure just where the black is coming from (I figured either the vanes or some crude that got flushed from the overheated torch hose). I decide the change to a new filter and run it for a while. It runs for 20 minute without getting much black on it so I then take the screen out of the pump and run it for about 1 1/2 hours through the filter. In the end that filter turns pretty black as well.   While doing the flushing one of my more savvy customer/friends shows up. We get to talking about putting a filter on the output of the pump. It needs to be there since to fine a filter on the suction will starve the pump and after the torch on the return line is to late. But it needs to be able to take some pressure. We finally hit upon a oil filter. It's rated for pressure and I've got several small ones in stock for my welder. Thus today I worked on building a stainless filter adapter for the oil filter and installing it.  I've also got a flow switch, flow indicator, and a new pump coming. Hopefully when I get through with this I'm going to have it bullet proof.
Reply:Originally Posted by MrBelvedereLooks great. Good idea to put the drawer on top!
Reply:I am copying your cart. Thanks for the pics.
Reply:Originally Posted by g-manI am copying your cart. Thanks for the pics.
Reply:good idea on the drawers. Looks great!
Reply:Originally Posted by jwelding70good idea on the drawers. Looks great!
Reply:A little more work done this weekend. I've managed most of the painting but more important I've finally got a flow switch on there.  It took a little looking but I finally found a flow switch on ebay that I thought I could make work for a reasonable price. I tried it yesterday and as expected it would work but just barely. There was just enough movement for it to switch but no more. I decided to try and improve it a little. So I took it apart and made a new tapered shaft for the center. It may not look like it but the rod on the left is tapered (barely, its 1/8" per foot). I calculated the change in area between the rod and washer. I then made it 1/4th the area of the original. The flow switch was rated at 2gpm and I needed to detect 0.25gpm. I knew there would be loses around the outside of the washer so pushed the rod to the limit to help with that. I then recalibrated it using a valve, measuring cup, and timer till I found the flows that where important to me. Before the 0.25gpm would of been about where the 0.125gpm is at now so I just about doubled the resolution. It's enough for it to work. I removed the pressure switch since I didn't see any need for both switches. The flow switch will be more reliable sensing something going wrong. Millermatic 252XMT 304'sDynasty 280DXHypertherm PowerMax 1250Miller Trailblazer 302 EFIOptima PulserXR feeder and XR Edge gun and more athttp://members.dslextreme.com/users/waynecook/index.htm