Basic Lathe Starting Points

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Hi--I'm interested in picking up a lathe, and don't know what exactly I should be looking for. I'm using it to make bicycle parts, as well as some other motorcycle and general projects. From what I can tell the tooling is the more expensive part.1) What are some things I should steer away from?2) Can you guys help steer me in the direction of  a nice lathe for under 1k that will do the trick?Thanks in advance.
Reply:Don't know where you are located so the "used " market will vary with geographic location. I have owned three lathes, the latest being a Clausing 6329, which is a 12" x 36" machine. Very solid, parts are available, will take 5C collets in the spindle. I paid $600 for it. I had a Logan 820, 10"x 24" before that. Bought for $550, sold after 5 yrs for $500.  I've never used one of the imports (Grizzly, Jet, Harbor Freight, etc) and never had to consider buying one either. From what I've read, your mileage may vary on these.  They are available new, which is something a domestic made unit can't offer, but I've had fine usage out of mine. You could find any number of American made South Bend, Logan, Sheldon, Clausing, Rockwell suitably equipped for around a grand.For reference, try www.plazamachinery.com (Joe Bergamo).For starters, see if you can envision what size work envelope you will need. The Logan I had was 24" between centers, but that gets eaten up fast.Hope this helps.
Reply:Newlincoln,Don't know where you live but here in Texas everyone thinks their used equipment should sell for virtually the same price as new.  Good deals are not easy to find around my area.  Shop around.The following link, produced by the U.S. Army, has some really good information and is titled, Fundamentals of Machine Tools.  Chapter 7 covers Lathes pretty thoroughly.  Link:  http://metalwebnews.com/machine-tools/fmt.html
Reply:Not sure but for "bicycle parts, as well as some other motorcycle and general projects" I'm guessing a 10" lathe would work.  No heavy oilfield or ag stuff...just small parts, right?Make sure you get one with a Quick Change Gear Box (QCGB) (Most lathes have this...but not all).  This will make threading much easier.  Also make facing and turning easier as you can quickly set the feed rates.When you're shopping for used lathes, look at the ways close to the spindle...this is where most of the wear is usually found on older machines. If you see ridges on the ways it's an indication of heavy wear.Bring a dial indicator with you when you go to look at one and check the play in the spindle...0.001" is (I think) about as much slop as you'd want.Also, I would be very wary of any lathe with a fresh paint job unless you know the person who rebuilt it.  There's a lot of junk out there with fresh coats of Krylon.  Ebay is full of them.You're right about the tooling...it's not cheap. A good 3-jaw chuck will run about $400.  (I said good as in Bison, not chicom stuff.)  A quick change tool post w/ indexable cutting tools will run about $300.  Don't forget the oil...there's three different grades specified for the South Bend...about $40 total.  And the list goes on...steady rest, follow rest, carriage stop, faceplates, dogs, blah, blah.  I figure when I'm done I'll have about $2,000 in this.I bought a 1979 10" South Bend Model 10K about 2 months ago for $800 and I love it.  This machine is practically brand new...original hand scraping across the entire bed length, less than 0.001" spindle play, shiny handles, nice original paint.  I'd been looking on the internet for about 6 months and this just popped up...guy lived not 3 miles from my house...he even delivered it at no charge.   Set a Google alert for "South Bend lathe" or whatever brand you decide to shop and wait for the responses.  One will turn up.Hope this helps.Miller 211 w/ spool gunMiller Dynasty 200DXLongevity 60i IGBT plasmaO/A w/ crappy chinese torch/gaugesSouth Bend 10K latheGrizzly 4029 10x54 millGrizzly 7x12 hor bandsawangle grnders, bench grnder, bench belt sndr7.5 hp 80gal cmprsor
Reply:Here's my short list of things to pay attention to/think about/get:Heavier is better.  Light lathes mean vibration, vibration is bad.One American made brand is now available again (South Bend) (www.southbendlathe.com).  These are extremely expensive.Having a separate power feed bar is a good thing and something you will probably wish you had on your lathe if you don't have it.This lathe doesn't have one [note the single lead screw]: http://southbendlathe.com/lathes/10K-Lathe.aspxThis lathe does have one [note the power feed bar under the lead screw]: http://southbendlathe.com/lathes/Heavy-13-Lathe.aspxBuy good bits (I prefer indexable tooling with carbide inserts [ceramic if I'm cutting hardened materials]).Get a QCTP it makes life alot easierFigure on two chucks, one 4 jaw independant and one three or preferably six jaw self-centering (these two items alone are going to be expensive)You may think you can get away with a little 9x20, but really, you'll be better off with a 12x36 or larger, so get the bigger one if you canMake sure whatever you get that it has a t-slot compound rest.  The ones that only have a tapped screw hole to attach your tool post to are annoying at best.Buy good measuring tools (do not skimp in this area, it'll cost you at least a grand overall to get the basics together, but without them you will make your own life miserable)Read Read Read Read Read...ad infinitum.  Learn about your machine, how a lathe works, how each operation is done, safety, cut depth, feed speeds, material variances, etc...  The more you know, the better off you'll be.Remember this: if you are about to do something and it seems like it may be unsafe, stop, don't do it.  The fact is that it probably is unsafe and a lathe will take a finger, hand, limb, etc... and break it, cut it, tear it off, etc... so fast that you won't have time to react.Before buying a piece of used equipment:Test the run-out (you can look up different ways to do this online)Check the ways (dented, dinged or otherwise damaged ways can make the machine worse than useless)After buying a new machine:Replace the gear oil...cheap insuranceClean everything off and spend ample time adjusting everything on the lathe to it's highest level of accuracy and usabilityPut it in a good accessible spot with good lighting, no flamable liquids/rags/etc... near by and keep a clear and organized work area around itWell, that's a start, if you need more advice, ask specifics and I'll jump in where I can along with everyone else here.--Wintermute"No man's knowledge here can go beyond his experience." - John Lockewww.improvised-engineering.comManufacturer Agnostic:Blood----------Sweat---------Tears----|------------------|----------------|----Lincoln Red, Miller Blue, Esab Yellow
Reply:If you will take a run by Yahoo groups and type in "lathe"  you will get a ton of hits.  I am a member of the 7X12 and milling groups and they have a plethora of valuable info on both of those sites.  The folks over there are really helpfull and will help you get going quick fast and in a hurry.  I got both of my older machines set up and zeroed in in about an hour using there instructions. and I have saved a ton of cash following there tooling links for inexpensive but good cutting bits and accessories.  Worth a look anyway.BobI'm spending my Kids inheritance, I dont like him that much anyway!!!!!!Enuff tools to do the job, enough sense to use em.Anybody got a spare set of kidneys?  Trade?
Reply:I couldn't find this link last night but here it is:http://www.mermac.com/advicenew.htmlI don't know about your level of expertise concerning lathes, but this along with advise given above should help. I was green when I bought my first lathe but there is an abundance of info available on line. You can educate yourself. If you see something and still have questions, take some pictures, post them and we'll go from there.
Reply:Follow this:  http://www.shopfloortalk.com/forums/...ad.php?t=25495MarkI haven't always been a nurse........Craftsman 12"x36" LatheEnco G-30B MillHobart Handler 175Lincoln WeldandPower 225 AC/DC G-7 CV/CCAdd a Foot Pedal to a Harbor Freight Chicago Electric 165A DC TIG PapaLion's Gate Build
Reply:Thank you all very much--as always I'm impressed by the answers and very appreciative of the time you all took to put them together. It is obvious you guys know what you are talking about, I am learning a lot from you folks. I wish I had something I could help you out with!again, thanks for the time you put in to the responses joedirtwintermute  BTD Rbeckettdunemetal  Rbeckett I live in NY, and the prices seem to be high--I'm trying to keep up with searches and reading--I will keep you all updated as I figure out what to do. I know I wasn't very specific before, but among other things I need to be able to set up for exact mitres on round and "aero" or teardrop/pear shaped tubing. Also, threading different items for bicycles, including bottom brackets.some people use vertical milling machines, but despite the fact I've only used a lathe during a short stint working for a fabricator, I'm set on a lathe for my next purchase.Anyway, thanks again everyone, I will update when I have more news or questions.