|
|
I plan to post this in the welding projects and pictures forum once I get this little project completed. But I'm sure once I do, several people will tell me how I could have done it much better, cheaper, faster, stronger, etc. So I figured I'd post it up first and see if there are any suggestions. I'm pretty confident what I have drawn up will be plenty strong, reasonably easy and fast (except hand drilling holes in .25" steel and my truck frame with a hand drill). Hopefully fairly cheap too.Anyway, I have this flatbed on this truck:The previous owner did a retartedly stupid job mounting the flatbed (as he did with the rest of the truck during the 15 years he owned it, but thats a long, other story). I need to remount it stronger, and higher so the headache rack matches the bed better (since the picture, I did a 1" body lift for the 12 valve Cummins I put under the hood, and it was too low before though the picture doesn't really show it). The bed is a CM factory bed, and the bed frame rails are 4.75" wider than my frame rails. So I have to mount out and up.My plan is to use 2.5x3.5x.1875 tubing bolted to the frame and supporting the rail, with 1/4" plate strapping the rail to the mount. I may not actually bust out the welder for this project, as I refuse to weld on my frame, and for ease of on/off don't want to weld to the bed either. The only place I could weld is the 1/4" strap to the tube, but alignment etc would be even easier if that was bolted as well.Any thoughts/suggestions? As the drawing shows, I don't plan to bolt at the front of the bed. I want it free for frame flex. Of course, this bed is built for hauling and I intend to. Stock trailer and 5th wheel, besides lots just on the bed from time to time. Nothing crazy heavy, but I want the mount to take whatever I throw at it.
Reply:All the heavy work beds I've seen all have rails lined up with the frame. I don't think I've ever seen one cantilevered off the side like that..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Ive built several flatbeds over the years, but they have all been dump beds. The bed I have now is a factory built aluminum flatbed. I mounted it somewhat like you have planned. Except I did not drill any holes in the frame. I used existing holes. The large flat bar it tall enough so I could use a wood softener between the truck frame and aluminum flatbed. Then bolt right to the aluminum C-channels of the bed. Attached ImagesDont pay any attention to meIm just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:I would not drill the frame either personally. How easy is it for you to handle the bed? First thing I would say is roll it over, cut the tacks, and move the frame rails to the right spot. Best I remember that truck has several places to mount using existing holes best I remember. I think if I did what you proposing I would run another piece of tubing or channel run cross ways between what you have. I run something like 1/4 to 3/8" flat plate that runs like tabs on the outside of frame to bolt to existing holes. I always make these plates with ribs or braces on each side so you effectively are building either an angle or a piece channel basically. I generally tie the gooseneck box in with a wider tab made of 1/2" or so. That is just what I like.SA-250 TMDSquarewave 200Thunderbolt AC/DC1951 G.E. welder
Reply:This is the along the lines of what I talking about although this one is only flat plate. The ones in front and behind this are the same way out of angle but covered by underbody boxes so I cannot show you a good picture.SA-250 TMDSquarewave 200Thunderbolt AC/DC1951 G.E. welder
Reply:Don't build straight up like that. It is ALOT of work and totally not necessary and will likely not be level or laterally rigid. I'll describe what is commonly done and what most all trailer equipment companies that sell and install the CM bed will tell you. The fact that your frame rails of your truck and flatbed dont line up is not an issue. Since the frame rails of your truck and flatbed run the same direction, you want to cut, drill and bolt down, with grade 8 hardware, 4 sticks of heavy wall tubing across your truck frame rails. Cut these pieces of tubing so that they are long enough to pickup the wider rails of your flatbed. Again, with these four sticks of tubing BOLTED to your truck bed, lower the flatbed onto your truck and slide the flatbed around until you have it aligned where you want it and then weld the flatbed frame rail to these four tubes. Good luck. I want a flatbed so bad. great looking truck. Good luck.Last edited by Jimmy_pop; 06-05-2015 at 08:45 AM.
Reply:This has been covered extensively before. I covered nearly all of it in these two threads.http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php...hlight=flatbedhttp://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php...hlight=flatbed I'll emphasize two things from those threads. Don't leave the front loose and don't cantilever the mounts like you're planning.Millermatic 252XMT 304'sDynasty 280DXHypertherm PowerMax 1250Miller Trailblazer 302 EFIOptima PulserXR feeder and XR Edge gun and more athttp://members.dslextreme.com/users/waynecook/index.htm
Reply:Thank you for the replies. I have read quite a few threads on here, including all 400+ posts on AKweldshop's flatbed build on the 06 F-550. Anyway, irish fixit, you've sold me on mounting it solid on all 4 corners. I want to make sure that I understand what you're talking about. Here's some shots. 2x2 x.25 wall tube. Bolt to original bed holes (I really like that it won't put my bolts in shear all the time). My frame has a hole through the rail, for bed mounts. No extra riveted on mount. I'll put a big washer out of flat bar to spread out the load on the frame. Does this look good?The extra little strap would just give me more weld surface area to hook the cross tube to the flatbed. Not sure that I want to do that, as I'll be closing the ends of the tube. Of course, its not like a lot of water would collect in there, and could drain out the holes for mounting to the frame. I couldn't see it filling up and splitting in the cold anyway.Any creative ideas on filler necks? Since this is a dually, and a wide bed, its hard to get much slope to it. I could fill the front tank at a few gas stations by creatively parking. Some gas stations I'd have to run both drivers side wheels up on boards to fill. I'll be 2" higher which will help, but maybe not enough.Also, when I think of a cantilever, I think of this:not this:But I no longer want to go that route anyway.
Reply:You've got it pretty good. I'm not a big fan of mounting with bolts through the top flange like some trucks have. I've seen it cause cracked frames down the road. However this is on haylift beds which put a lot of upward pull on the connection causing flex of the flange and eventual cracking at the hole. If you use some decent thickness strap (say 3/8" or so) to spread this load down the frame flange you should be fine on the type bed you have. If it was a hay bed then I would want something more. As for the plates on the end you can use them if you want but they're really not needed if you're a decent welder. It doesn't take as much as you think to hold those together. I've seen some pretty poor welds still holding in that area. While your original mounting plan doesn't cantilever the load out a lot it does a few inches. That with the limited resistance to twist of both the frame and the channel on the bed makes for some flex which could eventually cause problems down the road. Anyway the way I've worked out to mount beds is to place the cross tubes on the frame of the truck and mount them with the bolts. I then reach through the tubes and weld the nuts (or bolts) so that no backup is needed to remove them. I then sit the bed on the tubes moving it till everything is even with the cab and frame as much as possible. Reach under there and tack weld the tubes to the bed. Then remove the bolts and lift the bed up to finish welding the tubes to the bed. Bolt back on and you're done.Last edited by irish fixit; 06-06-2015 at 02:53 PM.Millermatic 252XMT 304'sDynasty 280DXHypertherm PowerMax 1250Miller Trailblazer 302 EFIOptima PulserXR feeder and XR Edge gun and more athttp://members.dslextreme.com/users/waynecook/index.htm
Reply:As for the filler neck my favorite method is like camjeep3 used on his. It works well for the front tank anyway. I don't always have that option though. http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php...ed!&highlight=Millermatic 252XMT 304'sDynasty 280DXHypertherm PowerMax 1250Miller Trailblazer 302 EFIOptima PulserXR feeder and XR Edge gun and more athttp://members.dslextreme.com/users/waynecook/index.htm |
|
发表于 2021-8-31 22:35:31