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Looking for a Lathe

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发表于 2021-8-31 22:35:28 | 显示全部楼层 |阅读模式
What would be a good lathe for the garage?I know nothing about lathes.I am looking to spend about $1,500.I have 220v in there as well.Can anyone point me in the right direction.I have been looking on Craigslist here and there.Can someone give me a good brand and what to look for.I am sure I will have to have it moved.What is the going price?
Reply:Here is a nice one right in your backyard..http://longisland.craigslist.org/tls/2047714306.html...zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:There is going to be a massive range of price on lathes, depending on the size and brand.  First off figure out how big you need, and then work from there.  Max diameter, max length of parts, etc.Jim
Reply:depends on what size you need and what you will do with it.  Are you just fixing things that don't need much high precision?  - Then any chinese lathe or worn-out American lathe will do. If you have a lot of room, big old Warner Swazy number 3's can be had for less than scrap value..  I saw a nice one for $400 a couple weeks ago.    Or you can buy a Smithy type mill drill and get a lot of capability in a small space - but not the same level of power or quality.  There are good old lathes that work fine from South Bend, Logan, Atlas and many others.   High precision toolroom lathes come from Hardinge or Monarch.  You might take a look around on the Practical Machinist board.
Reply:I would do some serious research before you purchase the lathe.Add up the cost of the following:1.  Cost of the lathe2.  Availablitlity of replacement parts (if an older and unfamiliar lathe)3.  Cost of the tooling you will need if not supplied with the lathe (Tool bits, Live/Dead centers, boring bars, center drills, collets, etc.)4.  Where to buy stock5.  Cost of stock6.  Size of projects you will be making (will determine what size lathe you need)7.  What type of measurement/layout tools you will need if you don’t already have them8.  Etc……….If you already know you have a fixed $1500.00 budget, you will be surprised how quickly you reach or exceed that budget when you add up all the ancillary stuff you need to actually make a nice project.  If you are patient and live in an area where there is an abundance of used equipment, you just might find a gem for a good price.  Happy hunting!
Reply:I would look at enco. They had brand new lathes for around 2800. I have a 15% coupon if you are interested.
Reply:The main thing you have to decide is what type of projects you will be doing, what type of accuracy you will require and what size lathe you can accommodate. No matter what machine you purchase you will still need tooling, stock and measuring instruments. Will an older machine that may be slightly worn and not super accurate be sufficient?  If so, there are plenty of older machines available. With a $1500 budget they may be your best bet. I would suggest getting as large of a machine that you can accommodate in your shop.  12" swing minimum, and that is pretty small. You will have a very difficult time turning a 12" piece in a 12" lathe. A 12" lathe will only turn 7 inches over the carriage. There will always be a job that is slightly larger than your lathe can handle.  I currently have 2 lathes.  A 1954 9" Southbend that is only good for making "tinker toys" and a ~1917 20" Flather that will cut anything.  I just sold a 1917 12"x5' Hendey a couple weeks ago that I had for sale here ( http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=45027 ).. Had some wear but a good garage lathe.  I also sold a 1924 18" Boye & Emmes lathe last August to make room for the Flather (http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb...he-sale-209393 ). Had a little more wear but could still hold .001".  Both were well within your price range. You won't be sorry purchasing a larger machine. ( http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=46798  )  The older machines are much more heavy duty.  Stick with old American made and stay away from the Chinese junk. They don't seem to put hardly any alloys in their iron.  The iron is too soft and wears quickly. Look on the Practical Machinist site also http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb...y-sale-wanted/  and  http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb...inery-history/  If you get an older machine, make sure it is complete without any broken or missing parts.  If you get a "conehead" machine like the one pictured below or the 2 lathes I sold, make sure the drive unit is complete and operational. Look for a turnkey machine. Attached ImagesLast edited by WFM; 11-27-2010 at 03:53 PM.
Reply:I wanted an older American lathe to learn on and have at the shop for those "needed" projects. I ended up with a 2 year old JET 13x40 geared head lathe for a grand. I've been very pleased with it. It's been a good learning tool, stepping stone to get my feet wet and make a $$ aswell.
Reply:you want either old american or german manual lathes.. they are still the best in the world..tackleexperts.comwww.necessityjigs.comhttps://www.facebook.com/groups/mach...dingequipment/
Reply:Originally Posted by zapsterHere is a nice one right in your backyard..http://longisland.craigslist.org/tls/2047714306.html...zap!
Reply:Originally Posted by WFMThe main thing you have to decide is what type of projects you will be doing, what type of accuracy you will require and what size lathe you can accommodate. No matter what machine you purchase you will still need tooling, stock and measuring instruments. Will an older machine that may be slightly worn and not super accurate be sufficient?  If so, there are plenty of older machines available. With a $1500 budget they may be your best bet. I would suggest getting as large of a machine that you can accommodate in your shop.  12" swing minimum, and that is pretty small. You will have a very difficult time turning a 12" piece in a 12" lathe. A 12" lathe will only turn 7 inches over the carriage. There will always be a job that is slightly larger than your lathe can handle.  I currently have 2 lathes.  A 1954 9" Southbend that is only good for making "tinker toys" and a ~1917 20" Flather that will cut anything.  I just sold a 1917 12"x5' Hendey a couple weeks ago that I had for sale here ( http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=45027 ).. Had some wear but a good garage lathe.  I also sold a 1924 18" Boye & Emmes lathe last August to make room for the Flather (http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb...he-sale-209393 ). Had a little more wear but could still hold .001".  Both were well within your price range. You won't be sorry purchasing a larger machine. ( http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=46798  )  The older machines are much more heavy duty.  Stick with old American made and stay away from the Chinese junk. They don't seem to put hardly any alloys in their iron.  The iron is too soft and wears quickly. Look on the Practical Machinist site also http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb...y-sale-wanted/  and  http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb...inery-history/  If you get an older machine, make sure it is complete without any broken or missing parts.  If you get a "conehead" machine like the one pictured below or the 2 lathes I sold, make sure the drive unit is complete and operational. Look for a turnkey machine.
Reply:Originally Posted by LIGoombaThat one is close to me.I may go take a look at it.How are the South Bends?
Reply:A couple of New Jersey business comes to mind… The first place carries a large selection of used industrial equipment.  IMHO, It would pay to crawl around the facility; there are many gems in all the nooks and crannies, a real mans cave.   http://www.cooktoolandmachine.comJust around the corner and down the road is Joseph Fazzio, Inc.    http://www.ordermetal.com/index.htmlThis place is like a candy store for men.   They have a lot of surplus equipment and hardware that sometime can be had for cheep.  It is also a great place for metal supplies.  Bring a flat bed trailer.  Yeah it’s New Jersey and it sucks.  I find it odd that New York doesn’t have man cave stores like the two that I mentioned.
Reply:I sold a 1940's Monarch 16CY 54"centers two years ago for around a thousand bucks and it was in good shape. Came with 3 jaw, taper, tool post and some tooling etc. I got it out of my garage and the person who got it got a good deal. Just remember that if you are looking at something in that size range, you are looking at a 6000 pound chunk of iron that you will have to move. A rollback wrecker does a good job of moving these machines. I had mine through bolted to two 4x6's and the driver was able to use the hydraulics to work the lathe to the ground in a very controlled manner in a short amount of time, having it bolted to the timbers helped a lot. A few things to look for would be a quick change gearbox and threading capabilities. You'll probably want a 3 jaw and 4 jaw chucks. A quick change toolpost is nice but not absolutely necessary. What are you wanting to do with it?
Reply:For a beginner I would look at a used LoganThey are still in business and have most parts available:  www.lathe.comThey also have a very active mailing list concerning their lathes, Scott Logan participates in the list to help answer questions."The reason we are here is that we are not all there"SA 200Idealarc TM 300 300MM 200MM 25130a SpoolgunPrecision Tig 375Invertec V350 ProSC-32 CS 12 Wire FeederOxweld/Purox O/AArcAirHypertherm Powermax 85LN25
Reply:Depending on the size of the lathe you need, I'd second anyone suggesting a South Bend or Logan Lathe. I have a South Bend Heavy 10 in my basement and have found it to be a great home lathe. I was able to move it myself, once I fully disassembled it. There is an abundance of used south bend parts on ebay, so even though South Bend is no longer in existance, spare parts are not a problem. A lot of the lathes that are out there come with three phase motors. Don't let this scare you away, Single phase to 3 phase VFDs are available for around $150 and give you the advantage of variable speed and reversing without having to move the drive belts or wire a drum switch. That is how I set my lathe , and I love the flexibility that the VFD gives me. Just remember to factor in the cost of the VFD and all of the other tooling you may require, as it adds up quickly. There are several very active South Bend and Logan groups on Yahoo that you may want to check out. I belong to the South Bend lathes and South Bend heavy 10 groups, and there is lots of good information and advise there.Another great sitr to look at ishttp://www.mermac.com/upIt gives a great write up on evaluating  lathes and anothe one in praise of  clunckersAnother great site, with lots of information on lathes is:http://www.lathes.co.uk/page21.html
Reply:I'm working on buying my first lathe as well.  I have a line on an 11" Logan with a ton of tooling and accessories, probably most of anything I would ever need.  Deals come along if you look for them.  I have been looking on Craigslist lately, but am considering going to some machinery auctions.  I'm guessing the older manual lathes and mills aren't all that desireable to most new shops.  Everyone wants CNC stuff.  I was a hair late on a Bridgeport mill with a DRO this morning for $900   Personally, I decided I wouldn't even look at anything smaller than a 10" swing and I think the Logan will be a good starter.  Most of my hobbies are automotive based, so I don't need to do anything huge at this point, but figured if I'm spending the time looking, I can turn smaller parts on a bigger lathe, but not the other way around.  The tabletops aren't really useful unless you know for sure you won't do anything larger.  Not really having much first hand knowledge, I think if I end up wanting/needing a bigger machine, then I should be able to get my money back out.For materials, I found a couple metal scrap shops around here where I can cutoff scrap from large machine shops for a song.  What is scrap to them is bigger than anything I would ever need.
Reply:that one zap showed was real nice
Reply:Are you near this one? http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb...g-soon-215150/ Attached Images
Reply:Here's one that might be a bit of a drive, but if it's in decent shape is a reasonable price. Looks to me to be a Heavy 10http://worcester.craigslist.org/tls/2086320575.html
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