soda blaster

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has anyone tried the soda blaster from HF? if so how is it and what kind of work does it do (go through thick to heavy rust, little to medium rust, light to very light rust, or just pull off paint, ect.)??? It just seems a little easier and cleaner to run than a media blaster. Thanks in advance, Ryan
Reply:no body has any input on this?? any info would help.
Reply:not sure about HF blaster i went with one from eastwood made in usaalso bought 300lbs of media from them half aggressive removal #11807and half rust removal media #50494 have not used it yet but will be soon Attached Images
Reply:* years ago I had the fortune (misfortune) to have my booth across the isle from a company that made huge industrial CO2 blasters. I got to watch their video about 100 times a day for 4 days. Seemed there was not much that it would not blast away.
Reply:I would stay away from the HF blaster. Unless you plan to use it only once. The Eastwood blaster is better made and can use different types of blasting media. The soda uses a different valve system, but is easily changed out. The soda works great for removing paint and light rust. Plus you do not have to block out your glass or trim pieces. You might have to use walnut shells to tackle the medium rust.BillMillermatic 2111960 Ford Ranchero1975 Dodge B200
Reply:soda  blasting will leave a residue that will cause paint failure unless you clean afterwards with special precleaners or a special vinegar water mix... unless you just love the xtra work , i'd say stay with  other medias        thermal arc 252i  -  millermatic 350P -   miller XMT, cp300ts, 30a 22a feeders, buttload of other millers, handfull of lincolns, couple of esabs  -   Hypertherm 1250 G3
Reply:The cheapo HF soda blaster, mentos and diet coke.
Reply:Originally Posted by woi2ldsoda  blasting will leave a residue that will cause paint failure unless you clean afterwards with special precleaners or a special vinegar water mix... unless you just love the xtra work , i'd say stay with  other medias
Reply:I tried one once on a boat to remove bottom paint... we wound up sanding it off.I use Black Beauty media on heavy rust/scale and it works fantastic.  A good sanblasting hood is key, add in a pair of Dickies coveralls, some welding gloves and duct tape over your pockets and it really isnt bad.  I used to sift and reuse the media but to be honest it really isnt worth it.SteveI'm not a welder, but I do sit next to one at the bar.
Reply:[QUOTE=billyons;446744]While this is true, the soda residue will also retards rust on bare steel for a short time. If you blasting a car, you are going to have to apply a thin coat of body filler any ways, so it really isn't creating that much extra work.[/QUOTEgo ahead , put polyester body filler  or  polyester primer , epoxy primer over it , what's the difference......F A I L !!!        thermal arc 252i  -  millermatic 350P -   miller XMT, cp300ts, 30a 22a feeders, buttload of other millers, handfull of lincolns, couple of esabs  -   Hypertherm 1250 G3
Reply:I would recommend an ALC blaster over the HF offerings.  While there's a bit of a price difference, the screw-on pour-in spout on the top of the HF is a lot more time consuming than the funnel style and pressure lock on the top of the ALC or eastwood blasters.
Reply:I bought one of the 10lb units from ACE and it works great for small parts. I wish they had a middle sized unit between the 2 they sell. I had my whole car soda blasted, gave it a good scrub before paint and no problems. I recently soda blasted a bunch of car parts for a customer. It is amazing how well and fast it cleans. I am now looking at buinding a cabinet to do soda blasting inside. http://www.ace-sandblasting.com/soda-blasting.html-DanOwnerDW Metalworks LLCMiller Trailblazer 302Miller 8RC FeederMiller Passport PlusMiller Dynasty 200 DX W/Coolmate 1Hobart Handler 135Hypertherm PowerMAX 30Smith O/A Torch SetPlus much much more