Cast Iron Vice Repair.

admin

Please go and read my link, and answer it here.Again, I'm to lazy to transfer everything over here.Thanks, ~Johnhttp://forum.weldingtipsandtricks.co...php?f=2&t=4458
Reply:Call me crazy...But My small cast iron milling attachment for my lath broke. (similar to a vice) and I ground out the joint and migged it... hot and fast.      (0.30 wire)It has been fine for a couple years now. I think the quick action / lower heat of the mig is the trick.Miller 211Hypertherm PM 451961 Lincoln Idealarc 250HTP 221  True Wisdom only comes from Pain.
Reply:I've used 309 for cast repairs and had decent results and I'm no pro.GravelThe difference between theory and practice is that in theory there is no difference.
Reply:Should I use 309 stick or 309 Tig? pre-post heat?
Reply:I used stick (a buddy of mine gave me about 15 pounds of 1/8 some time ago). I heated it up a little with MAPP gas, welded a little, whacked it with a small ball pien... wash-rinse-repeat... used MAPP to slow the cooling.GravelThe difference between theory and practice is that in theory there is no difference.
Reply:OK. If it were me I would use nickel. If not, I would braze it. If you don't have any temp sticks get some. The heating cooling process needs to be very close to tolerance/weld/jujitsu/paranormal levels. This is your bread and butter for your repair. I didn't see what brand vise you had. If something quality they used good material held to high standards in the process. Do the same if you want it to work. Preheat all cracks/add ons at the same time to get it done all at once. Find welding temp for that particular cast. Prolly between 700* to 1200* This is a big difference in temp. Braze accordingly, back your torch off a little at a time to prevent rapid cooling. Taking the temp down is a slow process. Peen around the area while cooling(your still controlling the cooling with your torch). When you've got it around 500ish then bury it in sand. I say sand because it and you are cheap.hehe. Lime and other non flammable powdery substances work better due to smaller particles getting closer together.....yea yea. If not sand put it in your oven or bbq pit and cool it that way over a few/several hours. adjusting the temp down so many degrees per hour. Now...there are several very knowledgeable folks on here regarding cast repairs. I've done 1/2 dozen cast repairs this week and numerous through a lifetime. This has always worked for me. I just put my spin/take on this because it's what I think would work in your situation. Now if you had to heat the part up in a hole with cow turds for fuel and barbed wire for filler metal I would prolly be more at home......o...hell yes it would work.Arcon Workhorse 300MSPowcon 400SMTPowcon SM400 x 2Powcon SM3001968 SA200 Redface1978 SA250 DieselMiller Super 32P FeederPre 1927 American 14" High Duty LatheK&T Milwaukee 2H Horizontal MillBryan
Reply:Are you sure your vice is cast iron? We had a lengthy discussion on this on another forum and found out that most are cast steel rather than iron. Not all, but more than 1/2.
Reply:Originally Posted by blawlessOK. If it were me I would use nickel. If not, I would braze it. If you don't have any temp sticks get some. The heating cooling process needs to be very close to tolerance/weld/jujitsu/paranormal levels. This is your bread and butter for your repair. I didn't see what brand vise you had. If something quality they used good material held to high standards in the process. Do the same if you want it to work. Preheat all cracks/add ons at the same time to get it done all at once. Find welding temp for that particular cast. Prolly between 700* to 1200* This is a big difference in temp. Braze accordingly, back your torch off a little at a time to prevent rapid cooling. Taking the temp down is a slow process. Peen around the area while cooling(your still controlling the cooling with your torch). When you've got it around 500ish then bury it in sand. I say sand because it and you are cheap.hehe. Lime and other non flammable powdery substances work better due to smaller particles getting closer together.....yea yea. If not sand put it in your oven or bbq pit and cool it that way over a few/several hours. adjusting the temp down so many degrees per hour. Now...there are several very knowledgeable folks on here regarding cast repairs. I've done 1/2 dozen cast repairs this week and numerous through a lifetime. This has always worked for me. I just put my spin/take on this because it's what I think would work in your situation. Now if you had to heat the part up in a hole with cow turds for fuel and barbed wire for filler metal I would prolly be more at home......o...hell yes it would work.
Reply:I repaired one with nickel filler rod about 5 plus years ago.  Just used TIG process the same as we would on steel and substituted the nickel rod. We got like 2 lbs of rod wasn't much if i remember right. Repair still good and it is used daily.
Reply:So would 309 tig with a good pre-post heat do a good job?
Reply:I don't see why not. Cant be any worse than it is now. I would give a go.
Reply:What brand vise is it?  Most vises are made of ductile iron, not cast iron.http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...61535280,d.eW0
Reply:Originally Posted by GravelI used stick (a buddy of mine gave me about 15 pounds of 1/8 some time ago). I heated it up a little with MAPP gas, welded a little, whacked it with a small ball pien... wash-rinse-repeat... used MAPP to slow the cooling.
Reply:Originally Posted by strube1369So, I'm guessing you didn't use all 15 pounds... (Sorry, couldn't stop myself...)
Reply:Originally Posted by welderjAre you sure your vice is cast iron? We had a lengthy discussion on this on another forum and found out that most are cast steel rather than iron. Not all, but more than 1/2.
Reply:the vice is Alltrade.Cheap, makes really fine sparks and grinds easily.~John
Reply:Originally Posted by CharleyhorseI plan on preheating the broken part in a gas grill or cooking oven, but I'm still not sure how hot I need to get it.  I don't own a torch, aside from a small propane plumbers torch. Then I'll weld with 7018 rod, peen, and cool in a bucket of ashes. How am I doing so far?
Reply:Guess nobody likes my hot and fast mig idea...Lmao...Miller 211Hypertherm PM 451961 Lincoln Idealarc 250HTP 221  True Wisdom only comes from Pain.
Reply:Originally Posted by CEPReally depends on the carbon content. Most cast steel is similar to low or medium carbon steel. I've had good luck welding cast steel with 300-degree preheat, and using Super Missile Weld rod, or 312 Stainless Steel rod, and even using 7018. Wrap the object being welded in house insulation, and let cool over night.
Reply:Quite possibly the best response I've ever heard! You Sir are now my Hero!!!!!!!! Originally Posted by GravelI'm definitely too cheap to buy nickel rods.  Might have to try the turd/barbed wire method. Those of us that aren't going to get the "right" consumables don't need to know which it is.
Reply:Where's Lance (Chucke2009) at??? Good video he put together for a cast iron vise repair..Proverbs 4:23My company welds.
Reply:Hey guys can you go and read my link.I put some more pics up, and I really need some help.http://forum.weldingtipsandtricks.co...php?f=2&t=4458~John