busted hand crank, How to remove it.

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In the picture, the smaller of the crank wheels, the stud is broke off (about 7 o'clock on the dial) It is on a clausing lathe, does it unscrew or is it pressed in? any idea's on how to get it out......Thanks Attached Images
Reply:That looks to me like a recessed-hex cap screw holding the part on. I'd try using a hex key to remove the screw, then carefully tap the wheel loose if it doesn't just pull off.If it isn't a screw, then it will be lots more work.
Reply:Do you have a close up picture of the center of that handle?? I agree with Oldiron2 it appears to be a recessed hex cap screw or bolt that a hexed tool would fit into! Versus the other handle which appears to be  a nut. That is why a close up of the handle would help  to determine how the handle is removed.Co-Own CNC shop:Miller :1251 plasma cutter, MaxStar 700 TIG/Stick, & XMT 456 Multiprocess Welder.&  2 Hypertherm HPR260's Plasma CutterSorry I had a bad stroke but now I am back.
Reply:The stud you are referring to should be a press fit into the wheel.  IF it's like my Craftsman/Atlas lathe.To get the stud out, a pair of vice grips, penetrating oil & twisting motion will allow it to be removed.The center nut holding the wheel is a self locking nut.  The wheel is then keyed onto the shaft & should slide off once the nut is removed.MarkI haven't always been a nurse........Craftsman 12"x36" LatheEnco G-30B MillHobart Handler 175Lincoln WeldandPower 225 AC/DC G-7 CV/CCAdd a Foot Pedal to a Harbor Freight Chicago Electric 165A DC TIG PapaLion's Gate Build
Reply:suppose to be a HEAT WAVE tomorrow (28*) i will be able to get out there and see what it looks like better. (I hope it's not pressed in)
Reply:If pressed on you might try using a three arm gear puller. http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/pul...ecatalog/N-97nthey are also available at Harbor Freighthttp://www.harborfreight.com/catalog...&q=gear+pullerIf you buy harbor freight check the internet for one of those 20% off couponsIf the handle has a keyway on it them you might try using some heat along with the puller to get the handle off.add almost all my engine lathes are pressed on handles with a keyways. and I have to use a gearpuller with heat to remove  the handles. Attached ImagesLast edited by specter; 01-17-2011 at 11:26 AM.Co-Own CNC shop:Miller :1251 plasma cutter, MaxStar 700 TIG/Stick, & XMT 456 Multiprocess Welder.&  2 Hypertherm HPR260's Plasma CutterSorry I had a bad stroke but now I am back.
Reply:Mark is talking about the broken handle (stud) being pressed in. If the hole for the handle goes all the way through, it might be peasy to punch it out from behind. If the hole doesn't and it's hard to grab the handle from in front, a hole could be drilled from in back to still allow punching it out. 'Course,  something   could  be  welded  onto  the  stud  in  front  to  better  grab  too;    there's   a   website   about   Welding   around   here   somewhere,  . . . if you need suggestions about that part... If you need some help with the weather, ...call Al Gore!I first thought the large nut was part of the wheel hub since I couldn't see the hex shape clearly; looking again, I think Mark is right. Once the nut is removed, the wheel should pull off fairly easily.
Reply:My Clausing 6329 has the handles press fit on a pin  on the handwheel, can't tell from the picture what model yours is though.Second look, appears your handle in question is an aftermarket application. The hand wheels on the compound, cross slide and carriage are always sustaining damage it seems.Last edited by dunemetal; 01-17-2011 at 12:48 PM.
Reply:weld a ballbearing to it and call it good job i would guess it is press fit , maybe not a thru hole, but a stud handle pressed inidealarc 250/250 ac-dc tigidealarc 250/250 ac-dc tig #2 used for sticklincoln sp100hh125dual arbor grinder polisher30 yrs of hand tools52 pitch blocks 6p-26prake gauge -pitch gaugeG&D prop repair 918-207-6938Hulbert,okla 74441
Reply:That is exactly what I did to remove the handle from the crank on a Troyke Rotary table.  The stud was press fit and I was able to use a flat punch and know it out from the other side.  Of course I removed the handwheel to work on it.Good luck.Joe... Originally Posted by Oldiron2Mark is talking about the broken handle (stud) being pressed in. If the hole for the handle goes all the way through, it might be peasy to punch it out from behind. If the hole doesn't and it's hard to grab the handle from in front, a hole could be drilled from in back to still allow punching it out. 'Course,  something   could  be  welded  onto  the  stud  in  front  to  better  grab  too;    there's   a   website   about   Welding   around   here   somewhere,  . . . if you need suggestions about that part... If you need some help with the weather, ...call Al Gore!I first thought the large nut was part of the wheel hub since I couldn't see the hex shape clearly; looking again, I think Mark is right. Once the nut is removed, the wheel should pull off fairly easily.
Reply:I got the wheel off the lathe with no problem, but there isn't much stud left to pull it out of the wheel, the back side of the wheel is clean, so i will assume it is pressed in, so i will either drill a small hole in the back and try to push it out, or weld a large steel ball to the end of the stud, I like that idea, because if i do remove the broken part than, than i will have to make something to replace it,.....That is pretty ez too i guess........
Reply:If it is pressed in just weld a bolt on the end.  Then put a short tube or pipe over the stud, a couple of washers and use a nut to pull the stud up through the tube.  Worked for me in the past on a similar project.  Once you get it out you can drill a smaller hole through to aid in getting the next broken handle out.Russell
Reply:got it out, now i think i will make the (oval) jig and make a knob handle for it......As soon as it gets above 25*.....Can't stand working in the cold........