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I am a motorcycle enthusiast. its coming to the point that i need a welder.I want to get a good welder that i can weld structural things with and also be light enough to do some basic bracket work. welding is something that has interested me for a long long time so i want to bite the bullet and pick up a good machine. like i said i want to be able to weld structural points on a motorcycle and i would love to stick with 110v(go easy on me i dont now much about this)also my budget is bout 300ish bucks but it could grow if needed.what do you guys think?
Reply:Do a simple search on this site.  Virtually the same question is asked every week.  The topic has been beaten into the ground more than Rodney King.
Reply:i did search the site but apparently i suck at it.. wanna link me to some?
Reply:Originally Posted by nailbombi did search the site but apparently i suck at it.. wanna link me to some?
Reply:thank you.so if i am going to want to send up some chopper frames i guess i am going to have to go with TIG then right? my buddy and i have a mig and its old and beat to hell, the wires do not feed correctly and its just such a hassle to use. thank you for your help DSW
Reply:I keep seeing the Lincoln Electric Weld Pak 3200HD pop up for pretty cheap.apparently the guys over at pirate 4x4 make off road trucks with itthink this would be alright for what i wanna do?
Reply:I'll leave the tig vs mig to someone who's familiar with what the frame might be made from. I could see possibilities that might allow the use of either. I'd be willing to bet however that a good AC/DC tig could do the job regardless of frame material as long as it was weldable. New expect to shell out $2K + for a decent name brand machine to get an AC/DC tig like a TA185 or Syncrowave 200. Used $800-1300 +.You might want to think about fixing your old mig. If it's a name brand machine and not a POS import, there's no reason you can't get it back to like new if you put a bit of effort into a refurb. The key being parts and manuals as well as wiring digrams are redily available for the major brands. The imports are usually throw away machines and you'll have to get "creative" with them. Several members here have done some sweet rebuilds on old tired machines and they look like new now. (7A749 (Steve), Duane, Ken and a few others that escape me this morning) Post up some picts, the issues you are having, the brand, model, serial number etc and some of the guys will point you in the right direction. Often feeding problems are relatively simple to fix with a good machine..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:yet  again thank you for all of your info.
Reply:Nail, You should strongly consider Tig, but the budget that you propse is way too low.  Like the others have said, the machine will be a small part of the investment, Time and practice material will play a big role in achieving your goal.  I would expect to spend about 2 grand to get a good AC/Dc tig with mid level features and about one year perfecting your skills.  Once you get there, you should also spend the money and go to a good community college welding course to get the finer points and further perfect your skills.  I have been s car and truck guy for 30+ years, but I am still a baby when it comes to welding properly and that is after about 5 years of pretty continous practice.  It can be done, just not as cheap as you think, and definately stay away from the cheap 110V harbor freight stuff from the git go.  You will outgrow it in a day, and have nothing but headaches from low quality low power equipment.  Just my .02, but I have been there and wasted the money and the T shirt you get for doing that sucks and doesnt fit very good....BobI'm spending my Kids inheritance, I dont like him that much anyway!!!!!!Enuff tools to do the job, enough sense to use em.Anybody got a spare set of kidneys?  Trade?
Reply:Hey nailbomb,So as to give you some additional advice/suggestions as the other responders, I will definitely concur with Bob(Rbeckett). I have been riding MC for 54yrs, & welding for 47yrs & just want to inform you that any welding on structural components of a motorcycle is serious business. You first have to understand the structural architecture of a mc frame & all the associated flex & lateral forces that are applied to insure a SAFE frame. Next, your concern should be, "What stresses are going to be applied by the owner once it leaves your shop?". You don't know & never will...... LIABILITY! Are you ready to jeopardize everything you own in a lawsuit because just one tiny weld wasn't "good enough" & the frame failed?Hmmmmm..... better do some serious homework. Are you an engineer? One who has a complete understanding of mc frame geometry? If you still want to engage, get some serious formal training. Then, consider as a minimum of a years practice & testing to insure your construction is roadworthy. Ever wonder why the mc manufacturers have a staff of engineers & test facilities with investments of millions of dollars to put their mc's on the road? Yet, you have a budget of $300 & expect something similar? Duuuhhhhh. Even with all my experience, I never weld or repair a mc frame.....that's my choice. I have made many accessories for mc's that are not required to be welded into or on a frame component. Just wanted to offer some "food-for-thought" for you to ponder. Do what you please..... remember, you have to live with the end results of your choices & decisions.Nuff said....DennyComplete Welding/Machine/Fab. ShopMobile UnitFinally retired*Moderator*"A man's word is his honor...without honor there is nothing.""Words are like bullets.... Once they leave your muzzle, you cannot get them back."
Reply:nailbomb,What the other guys already said.You have a whole bunch of conflicting conditions being laid out.  A $300 budget?  Sure, you can get a welder, even a half way decent name brand welder if you buy a used one, in that price range.But a $300 welder for structural items?  Hmmm, a stick aka SMAW welder aka a buzz-box can usually be gotten in that price range and they usually have enough power to do structural welds.But a $300 welder to do structural welds on a motorcycle by a complete newbie?  Nope.  As soon as you put "motorcycle" into your conditions you changed pretty much the ballpark of equipment and skill needed to do that sort of work.A -lot- of modern motorcycle frames are made of aluminum.  Pretty much the preferred method to weld an aluminum motorcycle frame (if the aluminum in question is even weldable to begin with) would be GTAW aka TIG.  To TIG weld aluminum you have to use AC, which are the more expensive machines.Strange that, an AC buzz-box is the less expensive one while the DC (usually AC/DC) version is the more expensive one.  A DC GTAW box is the less expensive one, while the AC/DC ones that can weld aluminum are the more expensive ones.  Even if the motorcycle parts in question are made of steel, GTAW is usually preferred for its precision and level of control that the operator has (once they have enough practice and experience    ).So, to do quality welds on some unknown motorcycle which may involve steel and aluminum parts, pretty much puts the process/machine into the AC/DC GTAW category.  Yes, some things may have been or may be able to be GMAW aka MIG welded, but that may have been factory done robotically with all sorts of process controls and quality checks (hopefully, unlike that batch of GoldWing aluminum frames that had some aluminum frame/weld problems).Step one:  Get some practice and experience and lessons.  A welding class at a tech or vo-tech or adult college course is certainly one good way to do so.  Usually, you would end up using more in just the consumables cost (elecrodes and shielding gas) than the cost of the entire class which also includes instruction and the use of several different usually at least lower-end commercial/industrial machines to use as well.Step two:  After you have some lessons and practice, then maybe look around for a machine of your own.  Note that 'good' machines are not cheap.  The machine or tool doesn't necessarily make the user better, but good machine or tools certainly DO make the job easier and better.  A poor machine with a good user can often turn out better results than a poor user with a good machine, but a good machine and a good user usually give even better results.  And you have to have the right machine/tool for the job.  Just because you can sometimes just bash a screw into a piece of wood does not mean that a hammer is the right tool to install screws.    The best laid schemes ... Gang oft agley ...
Reply:Really the two welding processes that fit the bill for what you are doing are Tig and O/A. If your going to get into making your own fenders and tanks, O/A will be more useful than Tig as you may want to work parts hot. Both are perfectly acceptable to weld frames when done correctly with the correct design. But $300 wont get you either. A good O/A setup complete is about $600, and a Tig is more like $1300 by the time you get the cylinders and basic safety gear. Tig is a little easier to learn aluminum with, the O/A can perform more joint types, etc. If your going to get into fabricating aluminum tanks I would deffinately go the O/A route.
Reply:To put it another way: even if I bought the best of these:I doesn't mean I can do open heart surgery -- even though I own the right tool for it.  The skills needed for structural welds on a motorcycle are not something you go out and just pick up.  A smart first step would be to take a class at a local community college or tech school.  From there, you'll get a good feel for the different types of machines (and processes) and how adept you might be capable of becoming with them.  I've been Mig and stick welding for over a year now, and I would not consider myself qualified for any kind of high stress structural welds.  (Not by a long shot.)Last edited by Jack Olsen; 08-03-2010 at 02:33 PM.Jack OlsenMy garage website
Reply:Originally Posted by makoman1860Really the two welding processes that fit the bill for what you are doing are Tig and O/A. If your going to get into making your own fenders and tanks, O/A will be more useful than Tig as you may want to work parts hot. Both are perfectly acceptable to weld frames when done correctly with the correct design. But $300 wont get you either. A good O/A setup complete is about $600, and a Tig is more like $1300 by the time you get the cylinders and basic safety gear. Tig is a little easier to learn aluminum with, the O/A can perform more joint types, etc. If your going to get into fabricating aluminum tanks I would deffinately go the O/A route.
Reply:Originally Posted by rlitmanCouldn't agree more, except for the price.Look on craigslist, and you will eventually find a decent O/A setup for under your $300 budget.  It takes a good eye to buy a used O/A setup though.  The tanks can be swapped, but you'll want decent a decent torch and regulators.  Finding them used AND clean can be hard, and you'll almost certainly be replacing the hoses.
Reply:JSFab....consider this your warning. Your previous posts in this thread added NOTHING of value and were merely childish insults.Don't have anything to say about the topic? Then shut the F*&% up.http://all-a-cart.comWelding Cart Kits and accessories
Reply:Originally Posted by makoman1860You must have better results on CL than I do. I have never seen a nice small setup on CL, they are always the huge industrial and Ag size equipment. For most of the motorcycle work I can think of, the industrial equipment is just too clunky. As for the budget......well money doesnt buy skill, and I have seen some better work come from a "poor" shop than the shop where they used equipment in place of talent. But it doesnt look as cool on TV I guess.....
Reply:Should have been more clear, when I was saying torch size, it was physical size of the torch, not the whole setup. Pretty much all I use are aircraft sized and sheet metal torches, dont have much use for industrial size stuff.-Aaron
Reply:Originally Posted by makoman1860Should have been more clear, when I was saying torch size, it was physical size of the torch, not the whole setup. Pretty much all I use are aircraft sized and sheet metal torches, dont have much use for industrial size stuff.-Aaron
Reply:Originally Posted by ZTFabJSFab....consider this your warning. Your previous posts in this thread added NOTHING of value and were merely childish insults.Don't have anything to say about the topic? Then shut the F*&% up.
Reply:Originally Posted by joedirt1966Perhaps an informative Sticky relating to “welder advice for newbies” would be helpful to new members/visitors.  This topic does come up on a frequent basis.  The sticky could address the more commonly used welding processes with their pros and cons, etc.
Reply:Originally Posted by joedirt1966Paul,I'm not sure if the comments above were directed at me or were directed to JSFab and meant to be in another thread.Tone and intent can often be misinterpreted when reading written responses in forums.  My response to the OP was not intended to be derogatory.  It is a fact that the search function in this and other forums can produce an abundance of helpful advice.  It is always a great place to start.  There are times that the question posed has already been answered in another thread.  Perhaps an informative Sticky relating to “welder advice for newbies” would be helpful to new members/visitors.  This topic does come up on a frequent basis.  The sticky could address the more commonly used welding processes with their pros and cons, etc.
Reply:Originally Posted by ZTFabNot sure why you would think that my comments were directed towards you or why they would belong in another thread?? jsfab made some comments int his thread that had absolutely zero value and even less intelligence behind them. I deleted his comments and gave him a warning based on that.If I had a problem with you, trust me, you would know it! I think a sticky for newbies would be a good idea. It's getting them to look at it that will be the hard part.
Reply:Just to clear something up here... I never said i was going to dive right into structural weds on a motorcycle, but..it would be nice to have a machine to work up to that point..
Reply:Nails, It can be done, but you gotta spend the hood time to get there.  Like I said earlier start small and work your way up.  But if you can afford it buy as big and as many features as you can ,so as you grow you will not outgrow your equipment.  Nothing is more frustrating than being stuck with underpowered equipment and having to respend money to grow past a stumbling block.  Once you get a little hood time, the extra power and features will be welcome additions to your bag of tricks, but learn the basics well and make sure you have a good foundation before moving on so you dont have "issues" later on.  Good luck, and let us know what you end up getting, OK?BobI'm spending my Kids inheritance, I dont like him that much anyway!!!!!!Enuff tools to do the job, enough sense to use em.Anybody got a spare set of kidneys?  Trade?Originally Posted by ZTFabI think a sticky for newbies would be a good idea. It's getting them to look at it that will be the hard part.
Reply:Originally Posted by joedirt1966Perhaps an informative Sticky relating to “welder advice for newbies” would be helpful to new members/visitors.  This topic does come up on a frequent basis.  The sticky could address the more commonly used welding processes with their pros and cons, etc.
Reply:Good idea I'm in stickies now. But all over the place and some completly derailed. And chit I thought hf pos might work then wife was ok . Now I'm at hobart 140 but chit what's a few$$ miller 211. I'm in trouble but if I'm in the shop I can't hear her yell anywayI do like the stickies little confusing were they head but I think if a person keeps there eye on the prize we'll find it. Thanks for the info. Bs is fun but distracting. Worse derails
Reply:I read the first 5 replies and kinda got the idea of what the OP is trying to do, Having worked in a motorcycle frame shop for years do yourself a favor and have someone that has the right welder and talent weld your frames.....Then use your mig machine to add brackets and pipe mounts etc....You wont kill yourself or get sued...Then when you have a couple grand buy a used tig machine and take some lessonsKosman BT-18 FrameLast edited by B_C; 10-07-2012 at 01:07 PM.  Miller Dynasty 350Twenty Six HammersThree Crow BarsBig Rock
Reply:Originally Posted by ZTFabI think a sticky for newbies would be a good idea. It's getting them to look at it that will be the hard part.
Reply:http://www.amazon.com/EVERLAST-Power...everlast+140stHere is the best bang for the buck anywhere.
Reply:Originally Posted by makoman1860Really the two welding processes that fit the bill for what you are doing are Tig and O/A. If your going to get into making your own fenders and tanks, O/A will be more useful than Tig as you may want to work parts hot. Both are perfectly acceptable to weld frames when done correctly with the correct design. But $300 wont get you either. A good O/A setup complete is about $600, and a Tig is more like $1300 by the time you get the cylinders and basic safety gear. Tig is a little easier to learn aluminum with, the O/A can perform more joint types, etc. If your going to get into fabricating aluminum tanks I would deffinately go the O/A route.
Reply:Zombie thread, back from the dead.Lincoln Precision TIG 185.Flex-Loc 150 torch.Super-Flex hose.Lincoln MIG 180.Victor Oxy/Act torch set.DeWalt Bandsaw with SWAG stand
Reply:Originally Posted by WenValleyZombie thread, back from the dead.
Reply:Originally Posted by AKweldshophttp://www.amazon.com/EVERLAST-Power...everlast+140stHere is the best bang for the buck anywhere.
Reply:http://welding-tv.com/2012/11/22/tig-welder-comparison/300 bux right to your door....
Reply:Originally Posted by shovelon
Reply:done.