Help removing pressed fins

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Sorry if this is the wrong section, I couldn't find an appropriate place for this question anywhere.My question is, what do you guys recommend I use to remove this pressed fin with? The only allowed access from the outside of the fin is on the right side but there is no space to fit a 3 jaw in there. There are 2 holes outside the center bolt hole which I'm assuming is what I'm suppose to use to remove it but I'm stumpt.Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Reply:big 3 jaw puller unless the two holes are threaded then a bar puller apply pressure should pop off or a tap-hit with  hammer (on the puller or old school......a helper, two pry bars under it (pressure up )and nut to cover threads hit with hammer  i would vote a good pulleridealarc 250/250 ac-dc tigidealarc 250/250 ac-dc tig #2 used for sticklincoln sp100hh125dual arbor grinder polisher30 yrs of hand tools52 pitch blocks 6p-26prake gauge -pitch gaugeG&D prop repair 918-207-6938Hulbert,okla 74441
Reply:I tried a 3 jaw but you can't fit the last arm on the left side, there's just no clearance for it.
Reply:Hello duffman, this may sound a bit wild, but if the impeller is made of a readily weldable material you could find a piece of pipe that fits over the shaft end, cap it and drill and tap it to take a grease zirque(hope I spelled that right), weld it around it's base to the impeller and then pump it full of grease with a grease gun. The pressure of the grease will likely "press" it off for you. Good luck and best regards, Allanaevald
Reply:A better picture showing details of the shaft end and the impeller might help.If you have room behind the impeller at all, you could attach two large nuts to some flat straps using quick-setting epoxy or even tack welds, then slip them behind to line up with the two holes, then thread long bolts into them and finally use a puller to push against the shaft. If you don't have a suitable puller, make one with a strong bar and a large center nut, the bar drilled to have the two bolts fit through it.Heating the impeller quickly might also help. Want to keep the shaft cool; the surrounding impeller will expand a bit.
Reply:cant you make some skinnier extensions for a 3 jaw puller to slide in there to get the pull started ???and some solid round stock for the center??350P 30A spool gun cut master 51  syncro 250 other stuff " take a dog off the street and make him prosper and he will not bite you sad the same cannot be said for man" i didnt use punctuation just to piss you off
Reply:Do the holes go all the way through?Can you get small hooks with a bar puller in them?
Reply:I'll get better pictures tomorrow so you guys can see exactly how it is. I don't want to have to weld anything since the vacuum isn't mine. I may try the heating up method, sounds like a good idea.
Reply:Have you ever had to change out a pulley on an automobile power steering pump? The pullers are nothing more then a sleeve and extraction bolt.  You may be able to use a similar design and fabricate a puller for this job.   The clue is thoes two bolt holes in the side of the collar.
Reply:Those two holes adjacent to the shaft are for removing the impeller.If they're tapped, simply use threaded rod to screw in.  Then cut a flat bar (1/4"x1" strap would work).  Drill holes using the same center spacing for the holes in the impeller.  Apply even pressure on both nuts.  Tap on the strap adjacent to the shaft.  Should back the shaft nut out to protect the threads.If the two holes are not threaded, you may have to run a tap in to get a bite for the threaded rod.Don't think it's going to take as much pressure as you may think.Syncro 250 DX Dynasty 200 DXMM 251 w/30A SG XMT 304 w/714 Feeder & Optima PulserHH187Dialarc 250 AC/DCHypertherm PM 1250Smith, Harris, Victor O/ASmith and Thermco Gas MixersAccess to a full fab shop with CNC Plasma, Water Jet, etc.
Reply:Right, if the holes are taped than use the appropriate puller, if not taped, maybe you can tap them.......
Reply:That impeller is probably aluminum, possibly zinc alloy. On a vacuum cleaner, I doubt that the holes are already tapped.  Why does it always take so long to get replies or answers to our questions; my attention has been stuck on this thread since yesterday!
Reply:I suggest the two bolt crossbar puller, soak the shaft with Kroil or some other penetrant, tighten the puller and then tap the drawbolt with a hammer.  The combination of force, vibration, and penetrating oil just might do it.
Reply:Sorry about the delay, havn't had time for a better pic. But when I get the chance I'll try out the suggestions and see if the holes are threaded. Thanks everyone!
Reply:Better pictures. And yes there are threads on those 2 holes. I just checked.
Reply:Piece of cake now....
Reply:Well I put 2 bolts in the threads with a steel plate in the middle and tried pulling that sucker out with a hammer (on the place) and not won't go anywhere.
Reply:It looks like I guessed wrong and the impeller is cast iron. I would start by using a small drift and a ball pein hammer (it doesn't take a huge sledge) to respectably 'tap' the boss all around its periphery, as indicated by the arrows below. That has the effect of slightly if only temporarily stretching the metal in that area, allowing the 'bond' between parts to shift or break. Then reapply the plate, put pressure on the center bolt by tightening the two outer bolts, tap the center of the plate and if that still doesn't work, carefully apply some heat to the impeller an inch or so from the center, on all sides. If possible, apply the heat while the pressure is still on and while tapping the center too.
Reply:Originally Posted by duffman1278Well I put 2 bolts in the threads with a steel plate in the middle and tried pulling that sucker out with a hammer (on the place) and not won't go anywhere.
Reply:I agree with Oldiron on the part being cast iron, I also don't see any driving key?Sometimes with this stuff patience and good karma is better than a good toolbox...If I were going to use a puller it would be with a "timing gear puller", or another "H" frame type puller. Timing gear puller (OTC) pic attached below. You may be able to borrow or rent one from an Autozone or similar parts store close by.I would also use a torque wrench and tighten a bit and tap on it like Oldiron said above. The fasteners should fail before you hurt the impeller or the puller.Also I can't tell if the tapped holes are blind or go through. If they go through you may be able to push the impeller off just by tightening the capscrews against the housing boss underneath (this can be hard hard on the bearings though).I'm still kinda stuck on not seeing a key in it. (hope it doesn't screw on...)Matt Attached Images
Reply:i gota ask,what brand of vaccum is this ?? since you did not say in the begining.not seeing a key way it may be threaded onidealarc 250/250 ac-dc tigidealarc 250/250 ac-dc tig #2 used for sticklincoln sp100hh125dual arbor grinder polisher30 yrs of hand tools52 pitch blocks 6p-26prake gauge -pitch gaugeG&D prop repair 918-207-6938Hulbert,okla 74441
Reply:Grrrr I'm a noob sorry guys. I'll do that I like that idea.The vacuum is a Varian
Reply:[     I've been following this thread since I've had my share of trying to pull pressed on wheels and gears but it was only tonight that I noticed that the shaft actually seems to be an allen head/socket bolt.  Is it possible you need to loosen and remove this bolt(right or left hand thread) and possible washer underneath.]I[/B]Then it should respond to a puller with 2 threaded bolts and center screw.  If you're lucky it may pull off with your hand.  Hope this helps.
Reply:i think it is threaded in and its probably right hand threadsLincoln Power Arc 4000 Thermal Arc Fabricator 252 iThermal arc 186Thermal Arc 26 tigTweeko 200 amp spool gunHobart AirForce 400WP-17V-12R
Reply:SUCCESS!!!! Thanks everyone for the tip. I ended up using Matt_Maguire's suggestion. They had a steering wheel puller at my local autozone and it took it right off. Now to get to the seized bearing....Glad you got it off but next time all you need is a little heat and a good pair of gloves......zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:13 days, you have the patience thing figured out... Now go forth and sin no more...KoolMatt(edit) Ooops, I forgot about the heat and grab thing...Last edited by Matt_Maguire; 02-23-2011 at 10:06 PM.