Yet Another Critique my TIG Welds thread.

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So I have wanted to try TIG welding and finally got a TIG machine (2015 AHP 200X). I have a bunch of scrap steel laying around and have watched quite a few of Jodi's Welding TIps and Tricks videos. I did a butt weld, and few T-joints. This first one was the FIRST time I ever tried TIG welding. I think the heat was too high and I got some Tungsten contamination This second one, was after I flipped the first over and went at it again. This was the first T-joint I tried. This is the second. This is the Last.James AHP 200X TIGMillerMatic 175DaytonaMIG 135Chinese O/A
Reply:They look a lot like mine did when I got my alpha tig   I think you are holding way too long of an arc for the first thing. Second, you need practice feeding in the filler more consistently. You might try padding beads for a bit before you go to joints. As Jody says, its is all about keeping the arc length short, and maintaining the proper torch angles. Some of your welds loo overheated as well. That probably comes from going too slow and not using enough amps (counter intuitive as that seems.)Miller Multimatic 255
Reply:tiger....getting better every time you light up.  Give yourself some lines to follow.  Keep alternating coupons.  Experiment and have fun for a few days.
Reply:I gotta say I am pretty impressed with some of the newbies at their first try.  Only thing I can say is remember that the filler has great amounts of deoxidizers which will slow down the boiling and porosity of the weld. So increase your amps to max, rehearse your pass, stomp on the pedal, and haul azz cramming that filler as hard as you can. That keeps the heat buildup down and suppresses the porosity. I know some people grab a good length of weld, then have to stop and advance the rod for another go. That is the hard way. Practice advancing the rod as you feed it into the weld, or as you retract it from the puddle. I do a huge amount of lay-rod, and feed the rod continuously as I melt the rod onto the puddle. I don't even retract. Using that method I have learned to advance the rod thru my fingers as I dip/cram/plump the rod into the puddle. Seems more natural to me. Also remember to keep your rod in the gas stream. Doing that every time makes it second nature so that you don't have to force yourself on exotic materials, like 4130, stainless, and titanium, or even magnesium. Steel if you go too slow will crust over and oxidize the glowing red rod end before you dip it again and bubble city occurs.Weld like a "WELDOR", not a wel-"DERR" MillerDynasty700DX,Dynasty350DX4ea,Dynasty200DX,Li  ncolnSW200-2ea.,MillerMatic350P,MillerMatic200w/spoolgun,MKCobraMig260,Lincoln SP-170T,PlasmaCam/Hypertherm1250,HFProTig2ea,MigMax1ea.
Reply:Thanks for the input! I really appreciate it!I am also going to practice welding some aluminum. I have a thick (3/4") piece of alumunum, but I can't weld it (I think it's just too thick). When I get the metal to puddle, I go to stab in some filler but the filler metal melts when it hits the arc, long before I get to the puddle. I got some 5000 series 1/16" plate from metal supermarket today and was going to try welding some coupons from that. The wire I have is 4043, will that work or should I get some 5356?James AHP 200X TIGMillerMatic 175DaytonaMIG 135Chinese O/A
Reply:Save the 16 gauge 5052 for another projects and get yourself some 1/8 sheet 5052. 6061 is much more spendy. Get a piece about 6x10 and start padding beads. You can stack them half way over each other or leave a 1/8 gap inbetween. And try to keep a 1/8 gap inbetween beads. I hate padding beads on steel. AL is just fine tho for padding. On the first bead you run next to the edge you really gota control it becuase the edge is right there. Set the machine to 160 or 175 amps 6 sec post flow or higher with 3/32 tungsten of your choice. Either rod will work 5356 or 4043. Have the acetone, a rag and a ss brush next to you, also your dikes. When the end of the rod balls from not enough heat in the puddle or to much torch angle snip the end of the rod.
Reply:When I bump the tungsten I wipe the area with a shop towel then brush it. Try using a 6 cup at 13 or 14 cfh. I use 10 cfh with 5 cup. Here's a example on how to pad beads overlapping each bead by 50% this  is a big block piston that welded like crap.
Reply:I also bought a Gas lens setup, and wanted to know if I'm doing myself an favors by using the gas lens rather than a standard collet body and cup?James AHP 200X TIGMillerMatic 175DaytonaMIG 135Chinese O/A
Reply:I always use gas lense. If you try to stick a none gas lense out very far at all like over 1/4" with a 6 cup it will discolor the tungsten. You try the aluminum yet ? It can be hard at first to control the heat and puddle. I like to use 3/32 rod on 1/8 and bigger AL usually. You will learn to feed the rod right away almost when welding AL.
Reply:Originally Posted by motolife313I always use gas lense. If you try to stick a none gas lense out very far at all like over 1/4" with a 6 cup it will discolor the tungsten. You try the aluminum yet ? It can be hard at first to control the heat and puddle. I like to use 3/32 rod on 1/8 and bigger AL usually. You will learn to feed the rod right away almost when welding AL.
Reply:I think it gets blue when its contaminated, maybe it's green tho. You should start on 1/8 thick AL. Those beads look too big. How are you testing, bending with your hands?you should be able to bend 16 gauge really easy even without very good penetration. Control the size of the puddle with the pedal then try to keep it the same size. That piece is really small and will over heat fast.
Reply:Originally Posted by motolife313I think it gets blue when its contaminated, maybe it's green tho. You should start on 1/8 thick AL. Those beads look too big. How are you testing, bending with your hands?you should be able to bend 16 gauge really easy even without very good penetration. Control the size of the puddle with the pedal then try to keep it the same size. That piece is really small and will over heat fast.
Reply:Here's a piece of 304 stainless I have been practicing on. Using 1/16" ER308 filler 3/32 2% lanthanated  tungsten, gas lense, and #5 cup. First weld is right handed (right to left) second is left handed (left to right)third is right handed again. James AHP 200X TIGMillerMatic 175DaytonaMIG 135Chinese O/A
Reply:No too bad. It looks cold besides in the middle of the plate middle row. I'm no stainless guru yet but I've found out you don't really want to be dwelling on stainless becuase it does not dissipate heat very well at all therefor you can burn the metal easy. Padding beads on steel sucks! It's hard to control the puddle and hard to get a good outcome on bead appearance. If you wanna pad beads do it on 1/8 AL and fill the whole plate with beads. For steel run t joints and other joints that you think you will be welding soon, try a 7 cup at 14 cfh and see if you see a difference.   You need to get more heat in your puddle, wipe everything with acetone aswell. Your somewhat consitant good job.
Reply:Originally Posted by tigerstripe40Here's a piece of 304 stainless I have been practicing on. Using 1/16" ER308 filler 3/32 2% lanthanated  tungsten, gas lense, and #5 cup. First weld is right handed (right to left) second is left handed (left to right)third is right handed again.
Reply:I got a 12x12 piece of 5000 aluminum and stacked a couple beads this morning. Attached ImagesJames AHP 200X TIGMillerMatic 175DaytonaMIG 135Chinese O/A
Reply:Looks pretty good. Start the bead with 150 amps + then back off when the puddle gets to big or you could speed up
Reply:Fill the whole plate and take a pic, try to make sure the camera is focused. You can spin the plate 180 degrees every bead so it won't get too hot. You might need to let off couple inches before the end and let it cool for a few seconds then restart.