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HF 90A .35 FC, through 15amp supply, 3/16 steel.Top Left is as far as I got before machine issues. Top right is the side view of it. The weld seemed to penetrate only as far as my chamfer on this one. Bottom Left is from 2 plates that I joined but was able to break off with a dead blow as a test. It did not break off until well past a 90 deg bend and I still had to fatigue it back and forth. Bottom Right is the side view of that same weld. No chamfer here. From some reading it looks like my welds look like I don't have enough current flow but am unsure. Machine says it can do 3/16 but not sure I buy that. Thank you. Attached Images
Reply:Originally Posted by wbsurfer1968HF 90A .35 FC, through 15amp supply, 3/16 steel.From some reading it looks like my welds look like I don't have enough current flow but am unsure. Machine says it can do 3/16 but not sure I buy that.
Reply:The really tall blob says that weld is cold and needs more power. That machine isn't going to burn thru 3/16" steel butted tight with no prep. As mentioned 1/8" is max really, and even that with no gap or prep most likely won't give you good results. . If you bevel and gap, you might manage to make fair welds on 3/16", but you still aren't going to have enough power to get good fusion with the base material even if you manage to get 100% penetration by using good prep.For projects like tables and non critical things this would be fine, but that machine isn't big enough to do good quality welds on anything heavier than 1/8", and even that is borderline and assuming you are running a 20 amp dedicated circuit, no extension cord and decent prep..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:One the top pics I did bevel the edges of both pieces, but not all the way. Probably only 60%.  You can actually see where the penetration stops right at that line. Thanks for the tips guys.
Reply:looks like the weld metal is just laying on top of the base metal and has not fused.turn the heat all the way up and slow down to let the wire penetrate. Aim the wire at the front of the puddle only. And I agree you need good fit up. Also it may be the picture quality but it doesn't look like you cleaned the metal before welding? You must get the mill scale off to get the most out of that machine.Miller Multimatic 255
Reply:Originally Posted by Louie1961looks like the weld metal is just laying on top of the base metal and has not fused.turn the heat all the way up and slow down to let the wire penetrate. Aim the wire at the front of the puddle only. And I agree you need good fit up. Also it may be the picture quality but it doesn't look like you cleaned the metal before welding? You must get the mill scale off to get the most out of that machine.
Reply:Originally Posted by SquirmyPugThe weld is too cold, those machines usually max out welding about 1/8" but 3/16" might be do-able. You need to use a 20 amp circuit to get the most from the machine.
Reply:Originally Posted by wbsurfer1968 I have a landscape trailer I am tweaking on so I need to get the most out of this machine.
Reply:Originally Posted by DSW( shudder...) Define "tweeking". If you are talking about small add ons like maybe a line trimmer rack, or raising the uprights to keep brush inside, you may be able to get away with that machine. However if it involves anything structural on that trailer, your machine does not have the power to do good welds. It will just be a question of when things come apart. Major mods on trailers are NOT a learning project.A dedicated outlet means one outlet on one line with nothing else attached to drain power or cause a voltage drop. If you are going to the trouble to run a dedicated line, go 30 amp 110v minimum, so you are not limiting the machine with input power any more than you have to. I'd just run a 230v line and buy a $50 used AC stick welder myself. You'd have plenty more power for stuff like this.