I'm diggin this friggin saw.!!

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..This is one schweet honkin saw.!! Spent a coupa hours this AM choppin up several big awnings for useful salvage and practice scrap. This friggin Milwaukee  metal cutting circular saw made short work of it and cut very clean.. Didn't throw chips or give me any grief at all.. I'm in love.!!  Got in an Evolution Rage3 metal cutting sliding miter saw as well. Haven't had a chance to use it much just yet but it's a nice lookin setup. Below are a coupla cuts. The 2" is MS cut with the Evo and the 1" Al was cut with the Milwaukee. I'll take the rap for the little "steps" in the 2" as I prolly didn't have it clamped very well. The rear cut on the 2" was done with a standard chopsaw for comparison.    d:^)  Schneeks..ESAB 161 LTSCommunicate & adapt, diggit.?ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ
Reply:Looks like a nice little unit Schneeks, what does it have for a blade?Gordhttp://gordsgarage.wordpress.com/
Reply:Heck, I was so jazzed about gettin otu with it I didn't even look.. IIRC, it's a TCT blade.. I'll check it out in the AM.. If I go out there again tonight the 'ol lady's liable to make me spend the night in the shop with it..  Hmmmmmmm..   d:^)  Schneeks..ESAB 161 LTSCommunicate & adapt, diggit.?ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ
Reply:I bought one about 3 years ago, works slick on channel or I beams as well, just a little torch or tig cut on the remaining web.They use an 8" carbide toothed blade.Last edited by NVW; 02-18-2011 at 11:49 PM.Leo
Reply:I have a Jancy Slugger, walks while doing straight lines and loud as a mad women.Classic 1D 200SAE 30086 SA 200Hyperthem 45Jancy Mag Force O/A Victor-GossCable's remote2-12" Mathey Dearman bevelersLN 25Miller Auto Set 211Wendy's Pancake/Jackson PipelinerNew Holland LS 180Great story man....tell it again!
Reply:I bought a refurb several years ago. Best thing I ever did. Milwaukee did it right on this saw.QamuIs Heg qaq law' lorvIs yInqaq puS
Reply:I think I need to go buy one.Disclaimer; "I am just an a$$hole welder, don't take it personally ."
Reply:Looks like it's just a carbide tipped blade.. Sure cuts better than other carbide tipped I've tried on regular circs. Noticed that the little cover over the blade also catches the majority of yer chips as well. How neat.!  I really like the little gizmo that releases the blade protector too. Up top of the saw and only about .5" travel to peel back the protector. Pretty slick.. I know my swindle-tradin-awning-makin buds have a bad case of saw envy right now. Almost worth the price in-and-of itself ta aggravate m'pals..     d:^)  Schneeks..ESAB 161 LTSCommunicate & adapt, diggit.?ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ
Reply:In a pinch the 7 1/4 Dieblo steel demon blade will fit that saw.(its cheaper-39:00)
Reply:I got a two evolution version of those saws.   After using one, I will find any reason not to have to take the torch off the truck or use the ones in the shop.  I had the milwaukee version and burned it up.  But then again I was pushing the saw to its limites,  had 2" by 1/4" bar grading.  Burn up over 50 blades on that job alone.   Got screwed on that job to by the contractor.Lincoln 300 Vantage 2008300 Commander 1999SA250 1999SA200 1968Miller Syncrowave 200XMT350MPA/S-52E/xr-15Xtreme 12vs Millermatic 251 w/30A  Millermatic 251 Dialarc 250 Hypertherm 1250 GEKA & Bantom Ironwokers
Reply:Originally Posted by Xtreme Fabrication After using one, I will find any reason not to have to take the torch off the truck or use the ones in the shop.
Reply:Since I got mine, I hardly ever use the torch for more than destructive cuts, quickies and heating. Saved a bundle on Acet, too...but then at 45 clams a pop, the blades eat up a good bit as well. I make up the diff with the time saved from all the grinding. BTW, I use Metal Devil blades almost exclusively on mine. They seem to last the longest. The Milwaukee blades last the shortest time and cost the most in my experience. YMMV.QamuIs Heg qaq law' lorvIs yInqaq puS
Reply:I just use a regular circular saw and a Freud Diablo blade (used to be, you could get them for $20 through Cripe).  But a handheld gives you a lot of options that just wouldn't be possible with a chop-type saw.  I chopped a single cabinet up -- and made both lower cabinets, the top surface, and also the upper storage bins for this:Try that with a chop saw or a jig saw.  Last edited by Jack Olsen; 02-19-2011 at 12:03 PM.Jack OlsenMy garage website
Reply:Originally Posted by DDA52BTW, I use Metal Devil blades almost exclusively on mine. They seem to last the longest. The Milwaukee blades last the shortest time and cost the most in my experience. YMMV.
Reply:i bought my milwaukee saw several years back, and all i use for cutting aluminum is the cheapest 7 1/4 inch carbide blades i can find. with $15 blades i can get several hundred feet of cut. for steel though i spend the money for jancy blades.Dynasty 200DXPassport plus w/ spoolmate 100victor 315c oxy/(act and prop)Miller digital elitemilwaukee power tools
Reply:Originally Posted by Schneeky..Good to know.. Are you getting the blades sharpened.? Seems I've read you can get them done fairly cheap. Was actually thinkin on having a couple around so I could rotate'em.   Schneeks..
Reply:I think I need to go get a good metal blade for my circular saw! There have been times when the A/O was a bad choice, the chop saw was not even a choice, the jig saw was a slow choice but doable, and a circular saw would have been the ticket!StephenMillermatic 251Miller Syncrowave 200Miller 30A SpoolgunHypertherm Powermax 30Etc., etc., etc.............Cancer Sucks!
Reply:Originally Posted by Jack OlsenI just use a regular circular saw and a Freud Diablo blade (used to be, you could get them for $20 through Cripe).  But a handheld gives you a lot of options that just wouldn't be possible with a chop-type saw.  I chopped a single cabinet up -- and made both lower cabinets, the top surface, and also the upper storage bins for this:Try that with a chop saw or a jig saw.
Reply:what is the FIRST AID kit for????? anyway, what about RPM with these things,? I would guess it is much slower than a typical hand saw......
Reply:Man, I hope Schnecky never gets his hands on a plasma cutter.There won't be a piece of metal in the Wrightsville Beach area safe from him.Milwaukee makes an aluminum blade for that saw also.  Works better (less clogging) than the standard blade.I use my Milwaukee all the time, especially for straight cuts on aluminum and MS.  Edge is "weld ready" whereas a plasma cut aluminum edge requires grinding the oxides off.Syncro 250 DX Dynasty 200 DXMM 251 w/30A SG XMT 304 w/714 Feeder & Optima PulserHH187Dialarc 250 AC/DCHypertherm PM 1250Smith, Harris, Victor O/ASmith and Thermco Gas MixersAccess to a full fab shop with CNC Plasma, Water Jet, etc.
Reply:QUOTE=1awert1;475797]what is the FIRST AID kit for????? anyway, what about RPM with these things,? I would guess it is much slower than a typical hand saw......[/QUOTE]Steel blades are designed to be used in steel saws only. Wood saws turn at higher rpm's and will cause the carbide to fly off the blade after the blade gets hot. Steel saws use gear reduction to increase the torque and allow the motor to run high rpm's while the blade runs slower and cooler.
Reply:I have quite a bit of time with that same saw, done plenty of long (3-4') on 1/2" and 3/4".  Simply put, it works.  Cuts are square and smooth, straight and the blades last a very long time.  It also have a breaker built right in so you cant damage the blade by pushing to hard and getting it too hot, it will just shut off.Have we all gone mad?
Reply:The Milwaukee spins at 3700 rpm.  The 14" dry cut saws are usually 1400 rpm.  The 7-1/4" Freud metal-cutting blade is rated for 5800 rpm, which is why it can be used with a normal circular saw.  That said, there are good reasons to use a saw designed for cutting metal.  And thanks for the nice words on the clean-up area.Jack OlsenMy garage website
Reply:Originally Posted by Jack OlsenThe Milwaukee spins at 3700 rpm.  The 14" dry cut saws are usually 1400 rpm.  The 7-1/4" Freud metal-cutting blade is rated for 5800 rpm, which is why it can be used with a normal circular saw.  That said, there are good reasons to use a saw designed for cutting metal.  And thanks for the nice words on the clean-up area.
Reply:I guess ol AC has never heard of the Freud or Lenox steel cutting blades offered at Lowes or HD.Designed specifically to be used in standard skilsaw type saws.Biggest disadvantage is the "flying slivers" from this type saw.  The Milwaukee, on the other hand has much better shielding from the metal schrads.Bullet Industries also makes a 7 1/4" metal cutting blade designed for standard skilsaws.I made many a cut in 10ga material with a Bullet blade and a $49 Skilsaw, before I bought my Milwaukee Metal Cut Saw.  Always used a full face shield, leather gloves, and leather jacket though.Syncro 250 DX Dynasty 200 DXMM 251 w/30A SG XMT 304 w/714 Feeder & Optima PulserHH187Dialarc 250 AC/DCHypertherm PM 1250Smith, Harris, Victor O/ASmith and Thermco Gas MixersAccess to a full fab shop with CNC Plasma, Water Jet, etc.Bought one a couple of years ago for a project needing long rips on 3/16".  Way cool, straight clean cuts and no showers of chips coming at you.  Great saw
Reply:Originally Posted by BruceNice project, looks a lot like you planned it w/ some safety in mind? Like it a lot.
Reply:i like a band saw Attached Images
Reply:Originally Posted by ed maci like a band saw
Reply:Originally Posted by SundownIIIMan, I hope Schnecky never gets his hands on a plasma cutter.There won't be a piece of metal in the Wrightsville Beach area safe from him.
Reply:Originally Posted by ed maci like a band saw
Reply:Originally Posted by Jack OlsenThe Milwaukee spins at 3700 rpm.  The 14" dry cut saws are usually 1400 rpm.  The 7-1/4" Freud metal-cutting blade is rated for 5800 rpm, which is why it can be used with a normal circular saw.  That said, there are good reasons to use a saw designed for cutting metal.  And thanks for the nice words on the clean-up area.
Reply:..Crap.. As with all "love affairs", the better ya get to know'em, the more they stink.. Didn't even think to check when I was shopping the new saw but this hummer don't bevel.!! Less'n I'm being real ignorant and don't see how to do it.Still doesn't take that much away from the overall handiness of the saw. Just adds a little "taint".  No matter how beautiful a woman is, someone, somewhere is tired of her chit..      d:^)  Schneeks..ESAB 161 LTSCommunicate & adapt, diggit.?ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ
Reply:The versatility of a handheld circular saw cant be beat really. I have fabed awnings for years using a skil 6 1/2 " worm drive with 7 1/4 " abrasive blades (remove the guard and the 7.25 blade fits in the lighter 6.5 saw). I know lots of folks will rail against this, but, I used a saw with no guard for ten years as a framer without incident. If you know there is no guard, you dont rely on it. Everyone I have know with fingers missing all had guards and had grown complacent. Of course you cannot let an osha guy catch you like that, you be wishing all you lost was a finger.Mike
Reply:I use a Milwaukee porta band and an old Porter Cable 724mag (I think that is it).  The open side is kind of a bummer.  If I ever find a good deal on the Milwaukee saw I could see that sitting in the truck nicely.  I just use a cheap blade for aluminium work and I have had some good luck with the metal blade that HD sells.  My Porter spins 5800 RPM which is right at the max rated for the blade after just looking.  I guess it is still ok but wish the saw was a bit slower just to be sure.    After reading this I may rethink that some.  I'm into staying out of the hospital and Dr. office big time.