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Well with all the rings we've been rolling lately my power source for my old quick and dirty ring roller (see http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=42898) gave out on me the other day. He said he was pooped before we where 1/4 of the way through them. Thus began the quest to motorize it. I have several gear motors and checking them out this one looked about right if it would work. A quick checked showed that we could make it run. At least after adding some diesel to the oil in the gear box we could. Ran it with diesel in the oil for a while and let it sit over night, then ran it a little more and drained. More diesel and a little running and draining before putting fresh oil in. I didn't have the right sprockets and chain combination so I ordered it from McMaster at the end of day Thurs so they would be here yesterday. Thurs night I considered the problem of how to motorize the old roller. The more I thought about the more I decided that it called for a complete rethink and rebuild. There where a few things I didn't like about it after using it some and after seeing even more ideas on here I decided to see what I could do with what I had on hand to make it better. A quick check through my bearing pile showed no two bearings the same. I knew I wanted a big bearing on a side shaft model like this. The shaft needs to be stiff and the bearing load is greatly increased over the bearings on each side of the original. The truth is after looking at my Browning bearing book in the engineering section these bearings are being pushed way beyond rated capacity. I don't completely like it but I've seen similar and even smaller used here so hopefully they'll hold up. If not I can always go to a spherical roller bearing. I didn't have the time it would take to rig up a tapered roller bearing system so here it is. I found the I-beam in my pile and it looked about right for the job. I reused the old bottom rollers and holder. The front bearing is 1 1/2" two bolt flange that I took the bearing out and machined the outside round and put the bearing back in backwards. I then torch cut the hole in the beam by hand and ground to fit the bearing (faster than setting up and boring it). The back bearing is a 1 3/8" four bolt flange that I had. It's not under as much stress as the front bearing so should be alright. Had to machine a new top roller since the shaft is bigger. Yeah I could of machined out the hole in the old one but I've got a chunk of 2 7/8 od super xxxx pipe that will clean up to a 1 1/2" bore so it was just as easy to start from scratch. I didn't have time to set up the shaper to cut the keyway. The bore is to long to broach so I just drilled and pinned it. I've still got to make a chain guard and add a little bit to the rear leg on the motor side to make it more stable. But it worked well enough to roll all the half rings on the table in 30 minutes. I've got about 12 hours into the build so far. Attached ImagesMillermatic 252XMT 304'sDynasty 280DXHypertherm PowerMax 1250Miller Trailblazer 302 EFIOptima PulserXR feeder and XR Edge gun and more athttp://members.dslextreme.com/users/waynecook/index.htm
Reply:I like your makeover. I have seen many ring rollers here and your's has most of the features I'm looking for. Apparently the one driven roller is working for you. That was one concern for me. For quick and dirty, it's looking pretty good. One question, what size I-beam is that? I have almost everything I need to put that together in my surplus inventory. Thanks for posting.
Reply:Fantastic. 12hrs to working machine is awesome.
Reply:Thanks. Yes so far the one powered roller is working. I'm not saying that it wouldn't be better with two but in truth it's not given me that much trouble. Things just get so much more complicated with two powered rollers. Especially if you want it adjustable for width on the two which I think is needed. This beam is a 5" tall with 5" wide flanges. It's kind of unusual in that it's not like most wide flange beams. The flanges are tapered like a I beam. But I worked around that and even made it a feature in that I can adjust the tightness of my slide by moving the clamping piece closer or further away from the middle of the beam. It's not my dream roller but it does a good job on the simple stuff that I've done so far. I'll probably never have time to build my dream roller and finally gave up and made a simple one just so I would have one. Millermatic 252XMT 304'sDynasty 280DXHypertherm PowerMax 1250Miller Trailblazer 302 EFIOptima PulserXR feeder and XR Edge gun and more athttp://members.dslextreme.com/users/waynecook/index.htm
Reply:Originally Posted by allfluxedupFantastic. 12hrs to working machine is awesome.
Reply:Nice, Irish. You may be quick, but I have yet to see anything dirty with your workContrary to popular opinion, I do NOT have a pet turkey that craps molten steel. It's a goose.
Reply:Originally Posted by graniteguyNice, Irish. You may be quick, but I have yet to see anything dirty with your work
Reply:love the roller, are the rollers just mild steel or are they hardened also what horse power is your motor.do you have an Irish connection or is it just your address "shamrock" ?
Reply:Originally Posted by murtlove the roller, are the rollers just mild steel or are they hardened also what horse power is your motor.do you have an Irish connection or is it just your address "shamrock" ?
Reply:Good thinking. I've got a few questions since I've been wanting a roller for a while and now have a use for the short chunk of wide flange beam I've been kicking around for a few years.What was the size material you rolled laying on the table? 1/4" x 3"?Do you think a smaller beam would work out OK? I think mine is 4" and the flanges are 3/8" or so thick. What size did your top shaft finish out at? I've got some 1 1/2" arbor shaft that seems about the right size.My name's not Jim....
Reply:Nice work as usual irish its nice to see that people still do things the "old" way. Like you said a drill press and a torch go a long way. If your luck a bi metal holesaw is a luxury. Although a mill and lathe would sure be nice.Millermatic 252millermatic 175miller 300 Thunderboltlincoln ranger 250smith torcheslots of bfh'sIf it dont fit get a bigger hammer
Reply:Thanks for such a detailed reply Irish, I guess I have no excuse now but to try and make a start.murt.
Reply:Nice project. Out of curiosity, do you make the rings longer than you need so you can cut off the flat ends or do you bend them elsewhere?- "If ya can't be handsome, ya may as well be handy!" HTP Invertig 201Lincoln Power Mig 255CLincoln SP125+Thermal Dynamics Cutmaster 38
Reply:Originally Posted by BoostinjdmGood thinking. I've got a few questions since I've been wanting a roller for a while and now have a use for the short chunk of wide flange beam I've been kicking around for a few years.What was the size material you rolled laying on the table? 1/4" x 3"?Do you think a smaller beam would work out OK? I think mine is 4" and the flanges are 3/8" or so thick. What size did your top shaft finish out at? I've got some 1 1/2" arbor shaft that seems about the right size.
Reply:For bearings, I was thinking maybe a piece of DOM welded into the beam and then either greased metal on metal or large enough for some tapered bearings.How to you like your threaded adjustment? Do you think a some semi trailer landing gear could be robbed of it's 90 degree box and threaded shaft so an adjustment wheel could be fitted on the side?My name's not Jim....
Reply:Tapered roller bearings would be the way to go. I didn't have time for all the machining needed for that. I think there would be to much friction in a plain bearing setup. I like the threaded adjustment much better than the jack I started with. It allows me to repeat settings so I can dial in the rings for production. I've ground a groove in one flat of the nut to help me keep track of where I'm at. I really think that a screw jack of the style that comes with pickups would be the ideal setup or simply a trailer jack itself. I've just not got either now while I did have the 1" B70 threaded rod. For the rings I did this time I could start the strap with a slight pinch forcing it up onto the far roller by pushing and running it at the same time. It was then 5 1/2 bites with the wrench for the smaller ones and 4 3/4 bites for the larger ones to get to size. I could get two flats per wrench move so it was just 1/3 of a turn per wrench movement. I was wanting the length of the wrench towards the end. All in all it's ok even in this production setup. It could be improved though.Millermatic 252XMT 304'sDynasty 280DXHypertherm PowerMax 1250Miller Trailblazer 302 EFIOptima PulserXR feeder and XR Edge gun and more athttp://members.dslextreme.com/users/waynecook/index.htm
Reply:Cool stuff! While my HF tubing roller has been good to me so far I am in need of a flat bar roller much like this but a bit bigger. I would like to be able to roll 24" material. One of these days I just need to get at it, go get material, and start buildin.
Reply:Thanks. We don't use it often but it comes in handy. I wish it was heavier and stronger. I had to turn down a job today because I don't feel it's capable of 2" square tubing. We did some 1 1/4" heavy wall square tubing into about a 8' dia ring a while back and barely got it done. Possibly a wider bottom roller carrier would allow for the bigger tubing but the motor is also a weak link. It stalled on us several times while doing the 1 1/4" tubing. It took about all I could do with a 1 1/2" wrench on the nut to tighten it for each pass on the 1 1/4" tubing. As stated before I'd love to build one heavier with all rollers powered but I'm sure I'll never have the time to. It does the job for the little I have invested in it.Millermatic 252XMT 304'sDynasty 280DXHypertherm PowerMax 1250Miller Trailblazer 302 EFIOptima PulserXR feeder and XR Edge gun and more athttp://members.dslextreme.com/users/waynecook/index.htm |
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发表于 2021-8-31 22:31:03