Hello & Help

admin

Hello Everyone,I'm new to the forum but been welding using a MIG for quite a few years now.  I restore classic cars as a hobby and most of the vehicles I buy need a fair amount of rust repair.  I also build jigs and fixtures to hold the vehicles and would like to venture into some more custom stuff such as fuel tanks, full race vehicle frames, exhaust systems including custom headers, etc.  Mostly anything automotive related. I'm interested in moving on from MIG to TIG as I'm told that it leaves a much cleaner weld and less grinding needed.  As with anything I buy, I always ask the experts what they think, which is why I'm here.  I need some advice on what would be the best TIG welder for my application.  It's my hobby and I don't do it for a living but I'm very particular with the quality and don't like to fight my equipment for great results.  I would also like to get rid of my MIG as I have a limited amount of room and wouldn't mind buying a unit that does more than just TIG and Stick (which I never use).  I plan on doing the following;  1) Sheet metal work on classic cars (quarter panels, patch panels, floors, etc), 2) Frame jigs and possible custom frames for the vehicles themselves, 3) Possible building of aluminum fuel tanks, 4) Building custom stainless exhaust systems, including headers, etcI'm not constrained by a limited budget but I don't want to shell out 5k for a TIG I use as a hobby.  As I conducted some research, I found that the Miller 150 Maxstar cannot weld aluminum so it's out.  Miller recommended their Diversion 165 but I'm not stuck on Miller or name brand units unless it comes highly recommended by the experts here. I've seen units on eBay that state they can TIG, Stick, MIG and have a plamsa cutter all in one and wonder how well they do any of those features and if you guys would recommend or have used one.  I would also like some advice on what you guys think would be a good enough ventilation and/or respiration system I should use as a hobby welder.  I occasionally run into situations where I'm welding to frame rails that have an inner galvanize from the factory in an effort to keep them from rusting and it concerns me a bit from all that I've read about welding to galvanized metal.  I read through your tech on PAPR systems and don't know if I need something that involved but will spend the money if it comes highly recommended. I really like my Miller Auto Darkening Helmet that I've used for many years and would like to adapt the vent system to that if possible.  Any ideas or suggestions ??Any advice would be greatly appreciated.  Thanks, Jim
Reply:Tig, stick, mig, plasma like to pop the magic smoke and stop working.For AC/DC machines, I like cheap, old, big, heavy, dirty industrial units.Syncrowave 250 and bigger.My 1963 Airco 300 (miller 330 abp) is 900 lbs of pure awesome Dave J.Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~ Syncro 350Invertec v250-sThermal Arc 161 and 300MM210DialarcTried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Reply:It wasn't an option in your original post, but many high end car restorers prefer O/A welding. Yes, it warps the sheet metal more, but it produces the softest welds and that means hammer & dolly work can be used to get it to the perfect shape (and hammer the welds flat). MIG welds are too hard to work well like that. O/A welds aluminum (with the correct flux).It also brazes, cuts, heats thick metal so it can be shaped/bent, heats rusted bolts to ease removal... It also has no electronics that can break down.
Reply:Originally Posted by MinnesotaDaveTig, stick, mig, plasma like to pop the magic smoke and stop working.For AC/DC machines, I like cheap, old, big, heavy, dirty industrial units.Syncrowave 250 and bigger.My 1963 Airco 300 (miller 330 abp) is 900 lbs of pure awesome
Reply:Originally Posted by G-sonIt wasn't an option in your original post, but many high end car restorers prefer O/A welding. Yes, it warps the sheet metal more, but it produces the softest welds and that means hammer & dolly work can be used to get it to the perfect shape (and hammer the welds flat). MIG welds are too hard to work well like that. O/A welds aluminum (with the correct flux).It also brazes, cuts, heats thick metal so it can be shaped/bent, heats rusted bolts to ease removal... It also has no electronics that can break down.
Reply:Originally Posted by Big BlueThanks Dave for the reply.  I'm not very familiar with the older machines and since I'd be buying it used, there is no guarantee the thing would work properly.  There is also the possible time spent fixing it and/or finding someone that works on them which I don't have time for.  Also, I have limited space in my shop and don't want to take up a whole corner for a 900# Gorilla .  I need something about the size of my MIG that can fit on the welder cart with the bottle.