What is the "key" to passing a bend test?

admin

I have to bend one 6G 6010 root, 7018 fill and capOne 5G tig root 7018 fill and cap6G 2 inch tig all the wayAnd 3g double bevel mig root flux fill and cap
Reply:What size/schedule? Can you use a grinder during the test? Face/root or side bends? How are you cutting the straps?Get a good root in.No start/stop in the strap area for the stick.Run the 7018 hot to prevent delamination. Seen a "good" weld peel open because the welder was afraid to blow through the root.Sent from my SGH-M919 using TapatalkLong after the price is forgotten, the quality will remain.Both of my Poppy's 1954 Short Hoods -Third generation to weld with it and teaching a fourthSA 2## - Bought and sold more than I can remember or care to list, 8 in the shop right now
Reply:Keep it clean. No wagon tracks. Feather out your starts and stops with a cut off wheel in a die grinder.Don’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:Yes wagon tracks are the devil,  can you use a grinder?old Miller spectrum 625 Lincoln SP-135 T, CO2+0.025 wireMiller model 250 and WP-18V torchCraftsman 100amp AC/DC and WP-17V torchCentury 115-004 HF arc stabilizerHome made 4 transformer spot welderHome made alternator welder
Reply:and if your allowed to grind, clean between each run, use a wire wheel on the TIG and MIG weld's to remove the oxidation, and grind the stick weld's so there's no lumps ect, make sure you run hot enough in the root and fill, on the caps's run just cold enough to avoid undercut on the cap's, and give the weld time to cool between runs on the cap, again to avoid undercut, and if your not 100% sure about a section of weld, grind it out and put it in again.if your welding something more exotic (Cro-Mo, bisalloy ect) then keep your heat input down to avoid ruining the mechanical properties of the metal, follow the weld procedure in other words.
Reply:You can use a grinder, they are both roots and face bends. The 6 inch is schedule 80 and the 2 inch is schedule 60 I believe.
Reply:Plus 1 on wire wheel between tig and mig passes. Do you mean sch 160?Sent from my SGH-M919 using TapatalkLong after the price is forgotten, the quality will remain.Both of my Poppy's 1954 Short Hoods -Third generation to weld with it and teaching a fourthSA 2## - Bought and sold more than I can remember or care to list, 8 in the shop right now
Reply:The key?No slag in the weld.(not the only "key" but it's a biggie)Buy American, or don't whine when you end up on the bread line.
Reply:the key is make a good weld. haha like others have said, make sure you tie into the sides and keep it flat. you dont want anywhere that slag can roll into and get trapped. I have passed plenty of bend tests with a 6010 root and 7018 fill and cap without using a grinder (besides on the root) but if there is a hump or wagon tracks they need to go! also put a good root in. I always put my root in and ground it clean, let it cool then did my hot pass. If you grind too much of it, you can blow through!- Christian M.C3 Welding & Fabrication - CNC Plasma Cutting-Mobile Welding-Custom welding and fabwww.c3welding.com
Reply:Keep it clean. No wagon tracks.
Reply:+1 on letting it cool between passesAWS 17.1, D1.1 and ASME IX (GTAW)Miller Syncrowave 350LX, Maxstar 150sth, Maxstar 200DX and  Millermatic 252 w/ Spoolmatic 30aMiller buzz box with Lincolin TombstoneThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 38
Reply:The 'key' is to follow the Weld procedure, and make a good weld.
Reply:The one that worries me is the 6010 root 7018 HP fill and cap. Do you guys recommend filling with a weave? Any special tips on the root?
Reply:Run Stringers for a 6G position weld.  You can weave a little, 2x rod diameter max.  On 6" sch 80 pipe you should be looking at a 3(maybe 4)  bead cap with 75 included angle on the joint.  using 1/8" rods you can expect 3 bead cap.  if you cap out with 3/32" rods, then likely 4 beads.Stringers will keep the heat input down.  IF you can scrounge a tempil stick, let the pipe cool till you're under 300F between passes.  If no tempil stick, then stop welding and let things cool down if you see the base metal next to the weld taking on any kind of dark blue or purple color.  You want the pipe warm, but not hot when you fill and cap the weld.  You can run hotter, but the difficulty in avoiding undercut on the cap beads becames greater.Otherwise, just keep it clean and if you think you rolled over any beads then do a little grinding to make sure you didn't trap any slag.Benson's Mobile Welding - Dayton, OH metro area - AWS Certified Welding Inspector