portable line boring bars

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looking for pictures of how the carbide tools are mounted to the boring bars. wanting to make my own... has anyone on here made their own boring bars? how hard is it? any advice? can you get away with making them out of Ms or is tool steel needed?Thanks in advanceRyanLast edited by trouble007; 06-11-2011 at 12:35 AM._______________________OF COURSE I DON'T LOOK BUSY... I DID IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME
Reply:try a search there are a couple of threads with some home made units. I want to build my own but i have a pile of other tools i NEED first.  so.... if you get to building your own be sure to take pics and start a build thread
Reply:try this one http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=51200
Reply:HiIf you are looking for boring bar for a lathe I can help you out.Have funTom
Reply:Originally Posted by bravofabtry this one http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=51200
Reply:What size bores are you doing?TA PAK 5XRTA 185Lincoln Wirematic 250
Reply:small bores from 1" to 4" most likely_______________________OF COURSE I DON'T LOOK BUSY... I DID IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME
Reply:I don't know about others but the one in that thread and the ones that I have are all just held by a set screw. I thought I had a write up on my set (which was war surplus after WWII) but I can't find it at the moment. There is a small write up and a few pics of when I had it set up at my former employers in the RCM dropbox here.http://www.metalworking.com/DropBox/...neboring00.txthttp://www.metalworking.com/DropBox/...neboring01.jpghttp://www.metalworking.com/DropBox/...neboring02.jpghttp://www.metalworking.com/DropBox/...neboring03.jpg  Anyway all my bars are just cross drilled and have a setscrew to hold the bit. Adjusting the bit is where the skill comes in. I have a few tricks for that but will have to try and get pics since I can't seem to find my write up on it.Millermatic 252XMT 304'sDynasty 280DXHypertherm PowerMax 1250Miller Trailblazer 302 EFIOptima PulserXR feeder and XR Edge gun and more athttp://members.dslextreme.com/users/waynecook/index.htm
Reply:Just do as Irish saidTA PAK 5XRTA 185Lincoln Wirematic 250
Reply:how far out of the shaft can the cutter hang before snaping is an issue? and is it a sqaure peg in a round hole when it comes to the cutter? and whats used as cutters just hss sharped the way its needed? or carbide tipped cutters? and thank you Irish Sorry for asking so many questions Ryan_______________________OF COURSE I DON'T LOOK BUSY... I DID IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME
Reply:I make my own all the time...http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php...ht=boring+bars...zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:Originally Posted by trouble007how far out of the shaft can the cutter hang before snaping is an issue? and is it a sqaure peg in a round hole when it comes to the cutter? and whats used as cutters just hss sharped the way its needed? or carbide tipped cutters? and thank you Irish Sorry for asking so many questions Ryan
Reply:Ok. Finally got everybody elses problems satisfied for the moment. So here's the promised pics.  The first two shots show me boring the end of a backhoe boom. These where taken a good while ago not to long after the local machine shop where I worked closed and I took over out here. The shots that I posted links to earlier are older than these and taken at the local machine shop. I've since done another large track hoe just like it here.   The next three shots shows my boxed line boring setup. You can see one of the original bars (there's more under that one) and the different bearing supports. The feed unit is toward the other side near the cutters. I have more bars that I've made in a tube behind it but I didn't drag them out. In case you didn't figure it out from the pics but this is stored up high in my shop since I don't use it very often. Attached ImagesMillermatic 252XMT 304'sDynasty 280DXHypertherm PowerMax 1250Miller Trailblazer 302 EFIOptima PulserXR feeder and XR Edge gun and more athttp://members.dslextreme.com/users/waynecook/index.htm
Reply:Ok here comes the cutting tools. You can see one of the original cutters and 3 home made ones. The brazed one I'm pretty sure my former boss did. The other two I did.  I'm pretty sure that both of those where just ground round on a grinder and sander. I do have one over in my boring head set that I setup and turned in a lathe.   The last shot is a couple of mics for boring. The home made one on the left is the one I use with my line boring setup. You can clamp it to the bar and touch the end of the tool. Then back off the amount of cut you want to take. Then loosen set screw and push cutter against the mic. Tighten setscrew and check that the cutter didn't move. This works fairly well. You can do similar with a simple setscrew and feeler gauges. This one happened to of been made already at my former employers for a different purpose (I think they someone used to use it on a surface grinder).   The one on the right is for a commercial bar like is used for cylinder boring. A friend found it and gave it to me.  Now you've probably got more questions but hopefully this will give you some ideas. Attached ImagesMillermatic 252XMT 304'sDynasty 280DXHypertherm PowerMax 1250Miller Trailblazer 302 EFIOptima PulserXR feeder and XR Edge gun and more athttp://members.dslextreme.com/users/waynecook/index.htm
Reply:I was thinking of making one but said screw it and have been on the phone with these guys www.borerepair.com based in NH and have the whole set up, bore welder, boring, head, and bars all work off one setup. I need my own, I have been using a friends for when I get the calls, but I want my own.Disclaimer; "I am just an a$$hole welder, don't take it personally ."
Reply:I like your homade micrometer seems like it would work well. But i think your setup looks complicated and a little bulky. I use two bearings mounted to plates that i can weld on either side of the hole, one of which has a  longer plate so that i have a rigid base for a mag base drill moter. I dont even use a gearbox the drill moter has plenty of tork and variable speeds.
Reply:Originally Posted by TozziWeldingI was thinking of making one but said screw it and have been on the phone with these guys www.borerepair.com based in NH and have the whole set up, bore welder, boring, head, and bars all work off one setup. I need my own, I have been using a friends for when I get the calls, but I want my own.
Reply:Originally Posted by TozziWeldingI was thinking of making one but said screw it and have been on the phone with these guys www.borerepair.com based in NH and have the whole set up, bore welder, boring, head, and bars all work off one setup. I need my own, I have been using a friends for when I get the calls, but I want my own.
Reply:wow thank you very much for going to the extra effort to get the pictures for me! i greatly appreciate it.As for questions. I think I'm out. I'm gonna ask around over the next couple of days and see if theirs a need for this in my area and if their is apart from the one guy that wants it now then it will be pedal to the metal.  ThanksRyan_______________________OF COURSE I DON'T LOOK BUSY... I DID IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME
Reply:You're welcome. Hopefully it'll give you some ideas.Millermatic 252XMT 304'sDynasty 280DXHypertherm PowerMax 1250Miller Trailblazer 302 EFIOptima PulserXR feeder and XR Edge gun and more athttp://members.dslextreme.com/users/waynecook/index.htm
Reply:Originally Posted by irish fixitI don't know about others but the one in that thread and the ones that I have are all just held by a set screw. I thought I had a write up on my set (which was war surplus after WWII) but I can't find it at the moment. There is a small write up and a few pics of when I had it set up at my former employers in the RCM dropbox here. (snip)  Anyway all my bars are just cross drilled and have a setscrew to hold the bit. Adjusting the bit is where the skill comes in. I have a few tricks for that but will have to try and get pics since I can't seem to find my write up on it.
Reply:Originally Posted by Matt_MaguireThat's a Cedar Rapids Engineering (AKA Qwick Way) automotive bar Irish. I have the manual showing parts including the attachment allowing bores to 13" (I think). Your missing the setting gage so I'll post a pic in case you ever see one at auction.
Reply:OK Irish,Looking at your pics I see the facing collars but not the facing head. Also I don't see any springs and collars used to correct for bar sag when setting the bar with large gaps between outside bearings.Anyway pics of the setting gage and facing collars and head below. The direct reading mic allows working to .001" pretty easily up to 4" dia with a 1 1/4" bar and larger bores with the correct adapters.It may take me a while to look up the manual and sales flyer (it's in a box somewhere)...Matt Attached Images
Reply:Thanks. No hurry on the manual. In fact I found a pdf of a really old manual online. I've not had time to read it or search for a better copy (that one was just basically a series of pictures of the manual). It's been really busy (and hot) here lately.   No I don't have the facing head. Nor the little measuring pins (great idea and one of my problems with using it). I like the mic and I'll have to keep my eye out for one. I do think that I've got the springs in there some place. I didn't know what they where for till now but I seem to remember some in there.   Now that I know the manufacturer I can look up more info on it.  I must say that I'm blown away at the prices they're bringing.Millermatic 252XMT 304'sDynasty 280DXHypertherm PowerMax 1250Miller Trailblazer 302 EFIOptima PulserXR feeder and XR Edge gun and more athttp://members.dslextreme.com/users/waynecook/index.htm
Reply:Well no two jobs are the same. Machining is a thinking process after all.Been busy lately,Below are some pics .of "TR" (round) and "TS" (square) type boring bits. A TRA would be 0° lead angle, TRC is 30° and TRE is 45°. The small round tool bits are solid carbide and not ground like the "T" type brazed bits. I have to modify them to use in a bar with holes that are centered.Also another pic shows some sleeves you can get if you would rather just drill holes and use square tool bits. The big sleeve and high speed cutter shown are matched and is adjusted via an internal 1/4"x20tpi screw."T" type bits are meant to work with the bar hole or slot on centerline (tool bit on center, not the cutting edge) and the cutting edge will be proper for boring. When new they rarely chatter and usually break chips very well. Sometimes when I re-grind I get them messed up a bit and have to do it again to re-gain this feature.Matt Attached Images
Reply:I know about the busy.  That's all good info. I didn't know about the T series bits though I've seen the sleeves and some of the other in the catalogs. I especially like the setscrew feed idea. I've tried to rig similar in the past but it was always a kludge and didn't have much luck. If I'd taken more time I'm sure it would of been better.Millermatic 252XMT 304'sDynasty 280DXHypertherm PowerMax 1250Miller Trailblazer 302 EFIOptima PulserXR feeder and XR Edge gun and more athttp://members.dslextreme.com/users/waynecook/index.htm
Reply:Troble007 Heres a way to make a neat drill drive bar i use it alot.  Its 1045 crome shaft easy to drill wont rust except where machining has been done. You will need 11/2 shaft, 5/8 18 starter tap,3/8 16 starter tap, 1/2 in square broach, and the tap drills for this tap. If this is what you are looking for i could make you one or explain how to do it Steve Attached Images
Reply:Few more Attached Images
Reply:Steve, sent ya a PM...would like to get into this business and this is the exact kind of setup I'm wanting to make
Reply:it must be tricky setting up the bar, supports actually, to be centered, it looks like you have a flange bearings mounted on the ends, do you just make up whatever plates you need for each arrangement? Very interesting work, great job!!
Reply:Sometimes i make plates for each job if i think ill being doing another Steve
Reply:Found some stuff for the auto/diesel type bars in case you come across them at sale. Scanned a sales flyer for Kwik-Way and Ammco400 or 42 type bars. Working with the normal bearing holders on weld-up portable boring can be a PITA but they work really well and tend not to chatter at all when set right. Flange mount bearings generally set up much easier, I've done it both ways... whatever works I guessPics below (reached the limit);Matt Attached Images
Reply:My dad has one of those somewhere..(Kwik Way)I should go and try to find it!...zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:Originally Posted by zapsterMy dad has one of those somewhere..(Kwik Way)I should go and try to find it!...zap!
Reply:I'm looking for a used setup like this but not really having any luck. Just wanting the self feed and the boring bar, then complete the setup with a nice size drill and dodge 4 bolt flange bearings. on the pic above of the model 400, is it hand driven? That'd be a sight to see
Reply:Good post Matt. Nice to see the old brochure for it.   BC   There's one of these still wrapped in paper (ie never been used) on ebay right now near me. But you'd better be sitting down before looking at the price. Yes there's a hand crank in the kit though I've never used it. In the brochure above it you can see the motor setup they had for it. Me I use my right angle air drill and a U joint to drive it.   The bars are easy to make. The real kicker is the feed but there are ways around that as well.Millermatic 252XMT 304'sDynasty 280DXHypertherm PowerMax 1250Miller Trailblazer 302 EFIOptima PulserXR feeder and XR Edge gun and more athttp://members.dslextreme.com/users/waynecook/index.htm