Lathe questions to ask

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Hi folks,Can any of you guys with experience fill me in on what questions to ask when buying a used lathe and what to look for? I've been casually looking for a bit. Not much comes up locally, but there are a couple in my $ range right now. I've asked the sellers today for more detail and am waiting on replies.http://www.usedvictoria.com/classifi...chuck_15246691http://www.usedvictoria.com/classifi...tions_15421188I know zero about lathes. I realize the popular advice is to go big, but I don't have the room, nor the need. I'll not be doing industrial stuff nor super .00001 fine stuff. I do mostly sculpture and ornamental work and would also like it for making parts for jigs and tools. I think the 8x20 +/- range would suit my needs. Looking to keep it under a grand $. What brands should I look for? Belt drive or geared? Most common type/size tool mounting arbor(?)( thingy the chuck is mounted on.......  )Good base tooling to get started?Any and all advise would be super appreciated. Thanks,Bert200amp Air Liquide MIG, Hypertherm Plasma, Harris torches, Optrel helmet, Makita angle grinders, Pre-China Delta chop saw and belt sander, Miller leathers, shop made jigs etc, North- welders backpack.
Reply:Prior to buying mine, I had never even touched the buttons on one.  I just bought a 11" Logan about 6 months ago:The best thing to do would be to check it under power.  People that love their machines instead of flippers should be more than happy to give you a short demo.  I would try to get as much tooling as possible as the tools easily cost more than the machine.  I paid $1500 for mine, but it came with quite a bit of tooling and is on the bigger side.  It's perfect for my garage as it's a good size, but easily moved on dollies.  It works perfect for what I need it for and it's capabilities are far more than mine right now.  Mine is a 3 phase 220V and I set it up with a VFD converter to run off single phase 220V.  They can be bought for around $100.A good place to get tooling for the hobbyist:http://littlemachineshop.com/Good sites to read:http://www.practicalmachinist.com/http://www.chaski.com/homemachinist/I can add some more info in a bit.
Reply:You should look for loose play in all the moving parts and handles.  Deep pitted rust stains on smooth machined ways.  Obvious overheating of the motor and drive train.  Leaking head or tail stock housings or gearboxes.  Dents in the ways just in front of the spindle where the 3 or 4 jaw chuck attatches (dropped chucks make big dings) and attention to detail by the previous owner by how clean and neatly the tooling is put away.  A well taken care of lathe will outlast most of our lifetimes, but a poorly maintained or neglected unit will show rust, roughness and general overall sloppy-ness.   Once you start the motor you should be able to dial up any speed you desire smoothly with no excess noise or whining gears and all handles should engage and dissengage smoothly with having to force anything into gear.  That should get you started, what size lathe are you looking for?  Small. Hobby, Tool room or big shop ,monster like Zap has.  They are selling for the value of scrap now due to the recession and flooded markets so be patient and what you want will come around sooner or later.BobI'm spending my Kids inheritance, I dont like him that much anyway!!!!!!Enuff tools to do the job, enough sense to use em.Anybody got a spare set of kidneys?  Trade?
Reply:The most worn out part on any lathe is going to be right by the head stock since that is usually where most of the machining is done.  I personally, for a first lathe, wouldn't buy anything I couldn't see run and cut a part.  When I checked out machines, I brought some scrap round bar with me to chuck up and turn and face.  Just like buying anything else, I ask why they are getting rid of it.  Most people I visited that were selling machines were serious enthusiasts and had garages full of heavy machinery.  Make sure all the ways are cleaned and lubed and don't have any deep pits or scratches in them like stated above.  One thing to check for is if the lathe can cut threads or not if you are interested in that.  Another nice thing to have that a lot of people sell with the machine is a quick change tool post (QCTP) that makes switching between tools much easier, to say bore and face.Look up a user on youtube called mrpete222.  He's an old timer that I think was a shop teacher for 30 years or something and has quite a few basic machining videos, including using the lathe.  They are really good and easy to understand.  Youtube is great for learning terminology and basic operations.Here's a video:
Reply:Thanks to both you guys! Good info. I'll get learning some more of the terms used in lathing an get familiar with the parts more. Thanks for the links kazlx, I check them out this weekend. That's a nice lathe you have. Looks like about the size I have room for. When you say "11" " is that the swing over? How big between centers? Is Logan a mainstream brand? Any idea what brands are good? Atlas seams to be one that a lot of people have.200amp Air Liquide MIG, Hypertherm Plasma, Harris torches, Optrel helmet, Makita angle grinders, Pre-China Delta chop saw and belt sander, Miller leathers, shop made jigs etc, North- welders backpack.
Reply:Yes, 11" is the swing over the bed.  That will always be how lathes are measured.  The lathe I have is a 24" bed I believe, although it came in a 36" as well if I remember correctly.  It was manufactured in the 60s.  I know the other poster mentioned there are tons of them around, but it really depends on your location.  I know on some of the other boards I read, the markets where some people are located are saturated with machines and people have hauled away really nice (to the garage user) for free.  Most have been replaced by CNC and a lot of old machines are worth nothing more than scrap to a shop trying to make money.  In my area, they aren't hard too hard to come by, but it's like buying a car where you have to look to find what you want for the right price.  I searched for probably about 3 months and made an 8 hour drive with a trailer to get it.I liked the Logan because people always had good things to say about it and the company is around. They don't produce lathes any more, but support old ones like mine.  Check out http://www.lathe.com/.  There are a ton of good brands, and usually any part that you may need can be made either by you or hobbyists that like a challenge and a small fee.  A well cared for machine should run for a long time barring any catastrophic failures (more likely due to user error, the big one is crashing the slide into the chuck while it's running).  Southbends are also probably one of the most popular with hobbyists and are around the same size as my Logan and also came in smaller tabletop versions.  I wanted a dedicated stand and chip tray, which is partly why I bought the one I did.  Those are the two most popular hobbyist lathes but really, most of them are pretty good if it fits your needs.  Worst case is if you find something you like, post pics and ask about it.  Someone will know or be able to give you some info.  There are so many machinery companies that just aren't around any more, but the machines are 50+ years old and perfectly functional, especially for a garage.  You won't keep up with a fancy CNC, but for one off parts and tinkering in the garage, it's great.The chaski board is much friendlier to newbs and hobbyists.  PM is more for people that work in the field, but there is a ton of good info there.  I would honestly read both of those boards and get an idea for what you think you may do with your lathe.A couple great threads:http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb...h-bend-129669/http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb...h-bend-147978/http://www.chaski.com/homemachinist/...1c0d1c9df24ee8Basics:
Reply:Here is another site that gives some great information on evaluating a used Lathe. http://www.mermac.com/advicenew.html
Reply:My recommendation is to purchase the largest lathe that you can accommodate in your home shop. You will always come across a project that will be larger than your lathe can handle and you will wish you had a slightly bigger machine. Also, buy one that is turn-key, has no missing or broken parts, has no excessive wear and is ready to run. Quick change gears are a must. If you are a beginner just starting out, a smaller machine such as 9” South Bend would be fine to learn on. They are the lathes that were in every high school metal shop and are mainly for instructional purposes. But, if you buy a 9” SB, there will come a day when you will want something bigger as you become more experienced. So, you may want to just consider buying bigger from the start. If I was to choose and recommend a lathe for a home shop, I would pick a 16” lathe as the best overall sized machine.  Anything smaller just isn’t large enough for many projects. Chucks and tooling for a 16” lathe are fairly common and reasonably priced.   Just because a lathe may have a 9” swing doesn’t mean it with easily cut a 9” piece of stock.  The antique style overhead belt drive machines are fine for a home shop. The older machines were designed and built sturdier and are much more rigid than the newer machines. There are plenty of reasonably priced older machines in the larger sizes. Buy bigger, you won’t regret it. AND DON’T EVEN CONSIDER BUYING ONE OF THOSE RUSTY OLD MACHINES THAT HAS BEEN SITTING OUTSIDE IN THE WEATHER FOR YEARS WITH THE INTENTION OF RESTORING IT. It just isn’t worth the time and effort.  I don’t care if it is free.As far as spare parts go for the older machines, don’t worry, there aren’t any, except maybe for a South Bend.  Many of the manufacturers are long gone out of business (including SB). But that is why you buy a lathe that is complete, has no excessive wear and is turn-key.  You have to make all broken or worn out parts. I haven’t broken a lathe part in over 40 years of operating. If you find a gear with a broken tooth, you pin it, shape it and make it work. If a gear bore is worn you make a bushing for it.  That is about all I have ever had to do.I have run lathe sizes 9”, 10”, 12” 18”, 20” and 36”.  I currently own a 1954 9” South Bend that I got for free (the only reason I own it) when a school I worked for eliminated their metal shop program.  It came with a ton of tooling and accessories. I only use it for very small items and consider it only useful for making “tinker toys” under 1” diameter.  My prize machine is my late father’s  ~1917 20” Flather & Co. lathe. This machine was the “Cadillac” of lathes in its day and is the smoothest machine I have ever operated.  It has large heavy castings and I have yet to find another lathe comparable to it from its era.Now for the most important consideration in buying a lathe, how much to spend.  You can pick up larger older machines ready to run with motor, chucks and tooling for under $1000. This may vary due to geographic location but in the NE machines are quite common and available. I sold 2 lathes in 2010, a 1917 12” Hendey that had belonged to my late father and a 1924 18" Boye & Emmes.  Both were complete running machines, had chucks and electric motors and were sold for $650 and $750.  There are plenty of good older machines out there, you just have to look for them. Attached ImagesLast edited by WFM; 08-15-2011 at 12:55 PM.
Reply:Thanks very much WFMfor your time and input. I think something like the 12" you sold would be as big as I can fit in my shop right now. The price you sold it for would be at least doubled if not tripled here. I live on Vancouver Island, BC. Not a lot of industry like places in the Iron Belt in the States. I've seen the occasional large, 18" come up, but they are $3k+.  I fully agree with getting the best you can fit and afford. Right now, I can't swing the big bucks for too much. I've got a pretty big shop, 25x50, but space is mostly spoken for. I do mostly sculptural stuff and home accessories. Machining large dia. pipe or resurfacing drive shafts isn't in my playbook. Largest solid round stock I use would be 2" x a foot long and that wold likely be for robot sculptures, and these don't need engineered spec. tolerances. However, I would like a machine that is in good shape, straight and true enough to do nice tight work if I needed. Like you eluded  to, better to have than not. So I would be looking for a machine that is turn key and that I don't have to attempt any repairs on. That would just mean time away from building. I'm kinda limited to what comes up here on the Island as shipping from the States for something this size would be 5 x the cost of the machine and I'd not be able to see it first hand. The local KMS (and Busy Bee in Vancouver, on the mainland) sells new, imported lathes. I know there are lots of forums out there with info on tweaking and upgrading these machines, but that isn't exactly turn key. Having said that though, many of these folks are into building functioning things like stream engines that need real precision, so that is what a lot of the "mod's" and tinkering is about. I'm not necessarily in that boat. I haven't' heard back from the two guys selling in the links from my first post, so I assume they are gone. I can wait. I don't have a customer job counting on a piece requiring lathing, but I do have lots of ideas that would use one. Thanks again for your, and the others input. Sure wish I could have got my hands on that 12" you sold! Oh well. Anymore advice is very much appreciated!Regards,Bert Originally Posted by WFMMy recommendation is to purchase the largest lathe that you can accommodate in your home shop. You will always come across a project that will be larger than your lathe can handle and you will wish you had a slightly bigger machine. Also, buy one that is turn-key, has no missing or broken parts, has no excessive wear and is ready to run. Quick change gears are a must. If you are a beginner just starting out, a smaller machine such as 9” South Bend would be fine to learn on. They are the lathes that were in every high school metal shop and are mainly for instructional purposes. But, if you buy a 9” SB, there will come a day when you will want something bigger as you become more experienced. So, you may want to just consider buying bigger from the start. If I was to choose and recommend a lathe for a home shop, I would pick a 16” lathe as the best overall sized machine.  Anything smaller just isn’t large enough for many projects. Chucks and tooling for a 16” lathe are fairly common and reasonably priced.   Just because a lathe may have a 9” swing doesn’t mean it with easily cut a 9” piece of stock.  The antique style overhead belt drive machines are fine for a home shop. The older machines were designed and built sturdier and are much more rigid than the newer machines. There are plenty of reasonably priced older machines in the larger sizes. Buy bigger, you won’t regret it. AND DON’T EVEN CONSIDER BUYING ONE OF THOSE RUSTY OLD MACHINES THAT HAS BEEN SITTING OUTSIDE IN THE WEATHER FOR YEARS WITH THE INTENTION OF RESTORING IT. It just isn’t worth the time and effort.  I don’t care if it is free.As far as spare parts go for the older machines, don’t worry, there aren’t any, except maybe for a South Bend.  Many of the manufacturers are long gone out of business (including SB). But that is why you buy a lathe that is complete, has no excessive wear and is turn-key.  You have to make all broken or worn out parts. I haven’t broken a lathe part in over 40 years of operating. If you find a gear with a broken tooth, you pin it, shape it and make it work. If a gear bore is worn you make a bushing for it.  That is about all I have ever had to do.I have run lathe sizes 9”, 10”, 12” 18”, 20” and 36”.  I currently own a 1954 9” South Bend that I got for free (the only reason I own it) when a school I worked for eliminated their metal shop program.  It came with a ton of tooling and accessories. I only use it for very small items and consider it only useful for making “tinker toys” under 1” diameter.  My prize machine is my late father’s  ~1917 20” Flather & Co. lathe. This machine was the “Cadillac” of lathes in its day and is the smoothest machine I have ever operated.  It has large heavy castings and I have yet to find another lathe comparable to it from its era.Now for the most important consideration in buying a lathe, how much to spend.  You can pick up larger older machines ready to run with motor, chucks and tooling for under $1000. This may vary due to geographic location but in the NE machines are quite common and available. I sold 2 lathes in 2010, a 1917 12” Hendey that had belonged to my late father and a 1924 18" Boye & Emmes.  Both were complete running machines, had chucks and electric motors and were sold for $650 and $750.  There are plenty of good older machines out there, you just have to look for them.
Reply:PS: WFM, that jolly green giant is really beautiful! I assume it's the one you got from your father. As an artist, I really like the lines and curves of the old cast machines. Too bad that kind of design has fallen out of production. I think a lot of those designs were inspired by the female form. Made it a bit easier to work in a dirty factory when you where standing in front of a nice curvy gal like your green machine. 200amp Air Liquide MIG, Hypertherm Plasma, Harris torches, Optrel helmet, Makita angle grinders, Pre-China Delta chop saw and belt sander, Miller leathers, shop made jigs etc, North- welders backpack.
Reply:I've got a Grizzly Industrial Model # G4791 for sale. It was built in 2006 and has only been used a couple of times. I'm selling it for $6000.00 OBO as it includes all kinds of extras, including dyes, drills, face plates, gears, etc. Specifications: ·Swing over bed: 12" ·Swing over cross slide: 6-7/8" ·Distance between centers: 39" ·Spindle: Intrinsic 6" back plate ·Lathe spindle bore: 1-1/2" ·Spindle nose taper: MT#5 ·Tailstock barrel travel: 3" ·Cross slide travel: 9" ·Compound slid travel: 3" ·Spindle to work table: 14-1/4" ·Spindle travel (drill): 5" ·Spindle taper (drill): MT#3 ·Number of speeds: 9 lathe / 9 mill/drill ·Lathe speed range: 250, 315, 400, 500, 630, 800, 1000, 1250, 1600 RPM ·Mill/drill speed range: 350, 400, 550, 630, 800, 1000, 1350, 1600, 2000 RPM ·Range of threads (inches): 11 TPI - 40 TPI in 20 Steps (Gear changes required) ·Range of threads (metric): 14 @ 0.5 - 3.0mm ·Milling head motor size (Single Phase 220V): 3/4 H.P. ·Lathe motor size (Single-phase, 220V): 1-1/2 H.P. ·Approximate shipping weight: 1391 lbs. Attached Images
Reply:I will probably get flamed for this, but think about one of the 3-in-1s.  For my first lathe and to learn on, I picked up an Enco combination 6x19 lathe, mill, drill press machine from a friend for $500.  I wasn't sure how much I would use it so I didn't want to make much of a commitment both spacewise and capability wise.   Buying the largest you can afford makes sense only if you are sure you will be using it, otherwise it can be a tremendous waste of money, energy, time, and shop space.The lathe part works great for its size, the mill, not so much.  The main problem is just getting it set up.  The cross slide and swivel vise that also hold the quick change turning tools, is tool low for the mill spindle to reach for low parts and the riser I bought, is, conversely, too high.  The drill press function, though limited, also works well.  However, I use all three functions regularly with no real issues.  The advantage of the 3-in-1,  obviously is that you can have all three tools in a small amount of space.  I find I can hold .0005  relatively easily.So far I have been very pleased with it and after 8 months or so of learning to use it, getting it tuned up, and buying tooling and fixturing, I have begun making useful parts for my other projects.  I really turning, especially and I find myself looking at larger, single purpose machines.  I know I can sell this machine at any point, so I feel I made a good decision going this route.  I wasn't confident buying an older lathe that might need refurbishing or parts replaces, but now I feel I am up to the taskOne thing I really like about these style machines is there is lots of support, training, and information on the Internet.If no one has warned you, buying the machine only starts the process.  You can very easily spend more than you paid for the machine in tooling for it.  Steve
Reply:No flaming here Steve. I want all points of view.I agree, those 3-1 mach. look good and I am in need of a new drill press( table arm cracked off mine). I think especially in a home/hobby shop, where space is really at a premium and the tool isn't necessarily going to make money, they are great. I need to stick with a separate drill press. I also like that I can do some milling functions with the lathe, so it's a bit of a 2 in 1 as it is. I also agree that where it is nice to be prepared for anything, any size, if you don't have the money or space or both, it just isn't going to happen and that is where the 6x machines fill a market. I think this fact is lost sight of sometimes. Once you have a big machine and use it all the time, you get used to having the abilities it affords and wonder how you got by with out it. But it's also good to have something to start on and see if you like it. If larger is needed and you've got the capital to tie up with it, then, like you said, you can sell and look for bigger. A 6x11 would be a big up grade from the drill and angle grinder doohicky I use now!!From what I can tell thus far, there seems to be a lot of forums and user help groups on the web with regards to the small to mid size lathes, as apposed to the large, industrial size ones. And the tone and mind-set seems different too. The folks with the smaller machines are more the hobby guys. They don't have the big company budgets to just order a fixture or get a new machine. Lack of funds brings inventive ideas and out side the box thinking. They all seem to have this in common and love to share there take on a "hack" with others in the same boat. That's very cool. Thanks for your input!Bert   Originally Posted by stevewmI will probably get flamed for this, but think about one of the 3-in-1s.  For my first lathe and to learn on, I picked up an Enco combination 6x19 lathe, mill, drill press machine from a friend for $500.  I wasn't sure how much I would use it so I didn't want to make much of a commitment both spacewise and capability wise.   Buying the largest you can afford makes sense only if you are sure you will be using it, otherwise it can be a tremendous waste of money, energy, time, and shop space.The lathe part works great for its size, the mill, not so much.  The main problem is just getting it set up.  The cross slide and swivel vise that also hold the quick change turning tools, is tool low for the mill spindle to reach for low parts and the riser I bought, is, conversely, too high.  The drill press function, though limited, also works well.  However, I use all three functions regularly with no real issues.  The advantage of the 3-in-1,  obviously is that you can have all three tools in a small amount of space.  I find I can hold .0005  relatively easily.So far I have been very pleased with it and after 8 months or so of learning to use it, getting it tuned up, and buying tooling and fixturing, I have begun making useful parts for my other projects.  I really turning, especially and I find myself looking at larger, single purpose machines.  I know I can sell this machine at any point, so I feel I made a good decision going this route.  I wasn't confident buying an older lathe that might need refurbishing or parts replaces, but now I feel I am up to the taskOne thing I really like about these style machines is there is lots of support, training, and information on the Internet.If no one has warned you, buying the machine only starts the process.  You can very easily spend more than you paid for the machine in tooling for it.  Steve
Reply:Thanks jcran, but that's outta my budget right now.200amp Air Liquide MIG, Hypertherm Plasma, Harris torches, Optrel helmet, Makita angle grinders, Pre-China Delta chop saw and belt sander, Miller leathers, shop made jigs etc, North- welders backpack.
Reply:Hey guys, one of the lathes that I linked to in my first post has been re-listed. http://www.usedvictoria.com/classifi...tions_15520460Any of you guys have an opinion on it just based on what you see in the add? Once again, I just emailed the seller a list of questions, so stay tuned and I'll let you know what they say. Thanks again for the help!Bert200amp Air Liquide MIG, Hypertherm Plasma, Harris torches, Optrel helmet, Makita angle grinders, Pre-China Delta chop saw and belt sander, Miller leathers, shop made jigs etc, North- welders backpack.
Reply:Hi BertI'm not sure but it looks like the lathe has a "cone clutch" on it and the lathe is very old.That type of clutch uses leather and I would be careful about it being dried out and bad.Google cone clutch to see what they are.Another thing is tooling it does not have a standard tool post and you may have problems getting cutting tool for it.Other then that it may be good for what you want to do basically making things round.have funTom
Reply:Originally Posted by acourtjesterHi BertI'm not sure but it looks like the lathe has a "cone clutch" on it and the lathe is very old.That type of clutch uses leather and I would be careful about it being dried out and bad.Google cone clutch to see what they are.Another thing is tooling it does not have a standard tool post and you may have problems getting cutting tool for it.Other then that it may be good for what you want to do basically making things round.have funTom
Reply:Here is a Clausing. Not much info other than "a box of stuff" comes with. Which sounds like they don;t know much about it. Looks pretty clean, but these guys are a local pawn shop and over price ridiculously sometimes. It's over my budget but I could see what comes with and low ball them.Again, any thoughts?Thanks, yet again!http://www.usedvictoria.com/classifi...35846_13994582200amp Air Liquide MIG, Hypertherm Plasma, Harris torches, Optrel helmet, Makita angle grinders, Pre-China Delta chop saw and belt sander, Miller leathers, shop made jigs etc, North- welders backpack.
Reply:bert, the first lathe looks like a second operation lathe or maybe an armature lathe or field coil boring lathe for automotive work. It has no compound and wouldn't swing very much over the saddle. Looks real strange to me...The Clausing is the perfect starter size, has a steady rest, but is the oldest I've ever seen and has no quick change box for threading. Way too much money IMO.Matt
Reply:Originally Posted by Matt_Maguirebert, the first lathe looks like a second operation lathe or maybe an armature lathe or field coil boring lathe for automotive work. It has no compound and wouldn't swing very much over the saddle. Looks real strange to me...The Clausing is the perfect starter size, has a steady rest, but is the oldest I've ever seen and has no quick change box for threading. Way too much money IMO.Matt
Reply:Here is a lathe for sale on Practical Machinist located in Mass. for $250.  Sounds like what you needhttp://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb...w-home-231167/ Attached Images
Reply:Don't put to much in the  guy making the bushing video because that was poor instruction..(1) First of all you can not do a finish ID then pull out rough bar stock and cut a OD true to a finish ID.(2) I would want the ID and OD to run true on a bushing I made or you have troubles from the start . (3) You always bore a ID before you run a reamer  if you want it to run dead nuts to OD.I know I know   But if someone is going give instruction do it right.
Reply:I bought a 1979 10" South Bend model 10K w/ quick-change gearbox, taper attachment, steady rest, centers, 4-jaw chuck, faceplate....pristine condition....hand scrap marks all the way down the ways and cross slide...$800....delivered and set up in my garage.I realize things might be different here in Houston that up in BC but I'm pretty sure there are better deals than the two pics I've seen here.  Patience pays off.  I used the alert function on Google and waited 4 months before this one came up.  It was 3 miles from my house.  Good luck.Miller 211 w/ spool gunMiller Dynasty 200DXLongevity 60i IGBT plasmaO/A w/ crappy chinese torch/gaugesSouth Bend 10K latheGrizzly 4029 10x54 millGrizzly 7x12 hor bandsawangle grnders, bench grnder, bench belt sndr7.5 hp 80gal cmprsor
Reply:Originally Posted by WFMHere is a lathe for sale on Practical Machinist located in Mass. for $250.  Sounds like what you needhttp://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb...w-home-231167/
Reply:Hi, if'n yo don't know anything about a lathe the best you'll get will be an old mangle that is worn out or missing vital parts....very much like buying a well used car.Get someone who knows machinery to go with you and give it a look over....it doesn't matter if'n it has a list of "must have" features, when the lathe is clapped out and only fit for an extensive rebuild the cost will treble above a used Chinese import that is well equipped.  If'n you buy a lathe that has worn head bearings or worse still a worn bed, you'll never make it work no matter what it cost.First of all you MUST set your budget as to the very max you can spend.This will tell you whether you can buy a heap of old crap and spend an arm and a leg getting it rebuilt by an expert to do what it did many years ago, or buy a used Chinese import with all the bells and whistles etc that despite the label are very good value for money.There's nothing like a newish modern lathe to make your turning experience pleasant as opposed to a sorry scrap producing heap of iron that is worn out and well past it's use by date.The end problem is you'll want a new 3 jaw chuck anyway, as a worn chuck will be as bad as a set of worn tires on your car, so at the start you'll be looking at at least $150 for a 6" diam 3 jaw Chinese/Polish whatever chuck and that isn't with a fitted backplate for your "new" lathe.It would be impossible to have a "must check list" if'n you don't know what you are checking.Give us your budget and size requirements as a starter.Ian.Just an update on the newest lathe on the local used market.http://www.usedvictoria.com/classifi...LATHE_15627301Price seems a bit steep and is that really a 42" bed??As before opinions appreciated...........200amp Air Liquide MIG, Hypertherm Plasma, Harris torches, Optrel helmet, Makita angle grinders, Pre-China Delta chop saw and belt sander, Miller leathers, shop made jigs etc, North- welders backpack.
Reply:That's pretty steep for a South Bend 9", and to make it worse there's no quick change for threading. The tag says 3 1/2 foot bed, that's correct and how old timey lathes were designated.It'll go about 24" between centers.Matt
Reply:Hi Bert, I would say that was a lot to pay for an old Southbend, no matter what the "experts" say about the quality built into the machine....it's still an old lathe with old lathe characteristics, and wear does not go away.....sentimetal attachment usually determines the desire to pay the price whatever the state.Some things modern lathes have compared to a similar "golden oldies":-Bigger spindle  and tailstock bores.Camlock etc chuck mountings.Hardened beds.Geared headstocks.Quick change screw cutting gearboxes.Vee belt or geared headstock drives.The list can go on, but there are also a lot of oldies that have some of the characteristics of the modern ones, but usually they all have small spindle bores, and that limits you to short pieces of bar stock before you start turning.The worst thing is when you get an oldie the 3 jaw chuck needs replacing, nothing worse than a slightly worn 3 jaw chuck.I paid 100 pounds Sterling (approx a weeks wages for a fitter and turner in 1980) for my 1920/30 Colchester Bantam 10" lathe back in 1980 just before I left UK for OZ, and it wasn't even slightly useable, being in such a state of disrepair, but I was able to completely refurbish it myself without material cost, except for a new 3 jaw and 4 jaw chuck, the rest being a complete rebuild, from the head to the tailstock, even recutting the bed by hand, everything was in a worn and crap state.Ian.
Reply:Thanks guys! I kinda thought it was over priced. I keep my eye out. And yes, there is something to be said for getting something newer. "Oldie" is not always "Goodie".200amp Air Liquide MIG, Hypertherm Plasma, Harris torches, Optrel helmet, Makita angle grinders, Pre-China Delta chop saw and belt sander, Miller leathers, shop made jigs etc, North- welders backpack.
Reply:Hi Bert, I wouldn't completely write an "oldie" out of the picture, the problem is you have to know what your needs are as regards to job capacity....some oldies just never die, and a good South Bend is a much sought after machine, hence the price range.I recently bought a 10" Emcomat lathe on Ebay, price was $520 final bid, for a mate of mine, and it got couriered down a distance of about 1,000 KM from Sydney in NSW in OZ to Melbourne, for a charge of $140.It's not a bad little lathe, had hardly any use, but needed some "refitting" in the belt drive department to get it to perform, also there were very few bits and pieces with it, like the screw cutting gear set and the fixed and traveling steadys etc, all of which have to be made up or aquired from Ebay if possible, but the 3 and 4 jaw chucks were there....no face plate but that's life.The original suppliers weren't much help, and didn't have any spare parts or sources for them, and this was for a machine that was probably only less than 10 years old, so oldies score on that being that you can adapt and mend anything that gets broken or worn without making the machine look too "agriculteral"...LOL.My old Colchester Bantam (in my possesion for the last 30 years) originally had overhead belt drive that was driven from line shafting way back in the 1920/30's, and I had to build in a 3 step flat pulley drive system that got attached to the back of the lathe head casting.....I also fitted an electric clutch that originated on a car's air conditioner pump, so making it able to stop and start frequently without stopping the motor.I think by choice for an oldie, if'n I came across one, I'd go for an Atlas 10" model with roller bearing headstock....at least you are getting a lathe that although old in many respects has great potential and would go on till the end of time.You could of course "build" you own, but that's a steep learning curve and takes a lot of machining skill (and time), but many others have done just that and learned from it.....food for thought....a rolls Royce can trace it's origins back to the Benz Dog Cart....design wise that is.Ian.
Reply:Thanks Ian. I didn't mean I'm not going to buy one if a good deal comes along. I'm not really in a rush. And yes, a 9 or 10" will likely be fine for my needs and a good starter to learn on. I'm an artist, so not looking for 10 thou's. I just stings a bit when I hear of all the good deals guys are getting in the States. Up here they are rarer and therefore more expensive. But that's the just the way it goes. 200amp Air Liquide MIG, Hypertherm Plasma, Harris torches, Optrel helmet, Makita angle grinders, Pre-China Delta chop saw and belt sander, Miller leathers, shop made jigs etc, North- welders backpack.