Helmet flash

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My just over a year old Miller Digital Performance Series helmet has taken to flashing me. As I maintain an arc it cuts out then in again. Maybe 1/2 second out every 4-5 seconds. I've changed batteries, no help. I'm set at 13 shade, 1 delay, 6 sensitivity. No indicator lights for low battery. How long is the warranty on these things? Am I doing something wrong?
Reply:In many cases people accidentally block the sensor.  You can do it with your arm or something you are near.  Check yourself.  I have seen novices have this problem regularly.
Reply:If the sensor(s) can't directly see the arc it will go into undarkened mode.                                                    MikeOl' Stonebreaker  "Experience is the name everyone gives to their mistakes"Hobart G-213 portableMiller 175 migMiller thunderbolt ac/dc stick Victor O/A setupMakita chop saw
Reply:You didn't mention the type of welding or the welder you are using.  When I switched to an inverter (Miller Dynasty), my Jackson helmet acted much like you're describing when welding with D/C, but worked fine on A/C.  If you're TIG welding, and have the capability, try a pulse setting . . . use the maximum pulses per second, maximum time at peak current and set the background current as high as possible.  On my Dynasty that was 250 pulses per second, 95% peak current time and 95% background current.  It's still D/C, but the slight pulsing of the current made the lens switch properly.  -jimDynasty 300DXSmith He/Ar gas mixerMM350PHobart Handler 120Smith LW7, MW5, AW1A
Reply:Originally Posted by 4sfedYou didn't mention the type of welding or the welder you are using.  When I switched to an inverter (Miller Dynasty), my Jackson helmet acted much like you're describing when welding with D/C, but worked fine on A/C.  If you're TIG welding, and have the capability, try a pulse setting . . . use the maximum pulses per second, maximum time at peak current and set the background current as high as possible.  On my Dynasty that was 250 pulses per second, 95% peak current time and 95% background current.  It's still D/C, but the slight pulsing of the current made the lens switch properly.  -jim
Reply:Try setting the delay higher. It should stay dark for a while even if a sensor gets blocked.Airco Ac/Dc 300 HeliwelderMillerMatic 200 (stolen)Miller Maxstar 150STLMiller AEAD200LE (welding and generating power) Hobart MIG
Reply:Does that model have the x-mode? If so, i would try that.HH 187Miller Bluestar1EAHP AlphaTig 200X
Reply:Originally Posted by GreyhorseDoes that model have the x-mode? If so, i would try that.
Reply:H80N gave me a link to a Miller service bulletin. These batteries are not all alike. Panasonic batteries are thicker than other brands. Thin batteries don't dependably make good contact in these battery holders. I'll update after I try Panasonic.
Reply:Originally Posted by SquirmyPugTry setting the delay higher. It should stay dark for a while even if a sensor gets blocked.
Reply:I have the same problem from time to time when low amp tig welding. can you look at a bright light source and the flickering stops. If so you are simply obstructing the sensors view. A gas lens and longer stick out will cure this. Or maybe try different positions if you haven't already.  good luck! nothing like wasting time waiting for your eyes to readjust.Thermal arc 211iCk flex-loc 150 & 130Clamps, saws & grindersHarbor freight 80 amp inverter
Reply:Um...... see squirmys post guys.I hate being bi-polar it's awsomeMy Heroes Have Always Been Cowboys
Reply:Originally Posted by weldermikeUm...... see squirmys post guys.
Reply:This may sound stupid but what about your cover lens. If it's dirty the sensors may not see clearly.I think it's 2 years on the module and 3 years on the digital module. I just got a new digital mod for mine.Torchmate 2x2 CNC with Flashcut CNC controlsHypertherm Powermax45 Esab ET220i Razorweld 195 MigRazorweld 200ac/dc TigTormach 770, Tormach xstechRazorweld, Vipercut/Vipermig, SSC Foot Pedal Dealer
Reply:Originally Posted by GambleThis may sound stupid but what about your cover lens. If it's dirty the sensors may not see clearly.I think it's 2 years on the module and 3 years on the digital module. I just got a new digital mod for mine.
Reply:my miller elite is still with me and occasionally used, but I finally gave up on electric helmets when I moved outside.once you go back (to regular lens), you never go . . . . .back? (to auto lens). . . . . . . . . . . . .weird.bosses stuff:trailblazer 325maxstar 200my stuff:sa 200fronius transpocket 180100 amp Lincoln w/f97 f350 DITKevin
Reply:Willie-BBetween your attempted remedies, and the frequency of occurrence, your hood appears to be southern-bound.If your hood is healthy - SquirmyPug's - recommendation is the first remedy - I hope you get lucky. Willie-B please excuse the boost because: lotechman's answer focuses on technique - I have a few questions that my benefit everyone with a healthy E-Hood..035 is my most used filler.  The mission is to product an invisible weld.  Depending upon parent thickness the electrode is .040 or 1/16.When working this small: the cup, and your hands, constantly block hood-sensor light.  The result is a time-out,because once again, you just saw the Big Bang.  Everyone with an E-Hood experiences this.  With regard to technique: Question/Answer?Has anyone experienced better hood-sensor behavior with a Pyrex torch cup?My thinking: a transparent cup allows 'more ambient light' and any E-Hood would work better - can anyone report better E-Hood performance due to a Pyrex cup upgrade?Opus
Reply:Squirmy, I apologize. I responded to your post, but it isn't here. Maybe I failed to click on Post Quick Reply. I did try your suggestion without success. Ultimately different shaped batteries were needed to resolve the problem.
Reply:I have a harbor freight that I bought about 5 years ago. It too is solar powered like my Lincoln Viking, but for pure abuse factor, the HF has lasted and lasted.  It still holds a charge and keeps on ticking.  It performs every bit as good as my Viking does, but for 1/5th the price.   I've used that HF helmet more than my Viking and I've dropped it at least 3 dozen times.  I really abuse the heck out of it.   It's been the best $39 I ever spent.  Yesterday was the first time I tried my new Fibre-Metal pipeliner model.  I love the amber color I get, vs. the green from an auto darkening helmet.  When my Viking finally dies one day, I won't spend the money on another expensive auto darkening helmet.  I'd just assume to buy a cheap HF again or stay with the non auto dark helmets.Lincoln Power Mig 216Lincoln AC/DC-225/125Miller  625 X-Treme PlasmaMiller 211 Forney 95FI-A 301HF 91110Victor Journeyman O/PMilwaukee DaytonMakita  Baileigh NRA Life Member
Reply:New misbehavior: it doesn't instantly darken. I'll take two helmets to Zapster's then try to get it warrantied.
Reply:Just started having the same flashing problem with my HF auto helmet. It has been a great helmet for 39 dollars.
Reply:Old is good....zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:Originally Posted by zapsterOld is good....zap!
Reply:Originally Posted by OPUS FERROWillie-BBetween your attempted remedies, and the frequency of occurrence, your hood appears to be southern-bound.If your hood is healthy - SquirmyPug's - recommendation is the first remedy - I hope you get lucky. Willie-B please excuse the boost because: lotechman's answer focuses on technique - I have a few questions that my benefit everyone with a healthy E-Hood..035 is my most used filler.  The mission is to product an invisible weld.  Depending upon parent thickness the electrode is .040 or 1/16.When working this small: the cup, and your hands, constantly block hood-sensor light.  The result is a time-out,because once again, you just saw the Big Bang.  Everyone with an E-Hood experiences this.  With regard to technique: Question/Answer?Has anyone experienced better hood-sensor behavior with a Pyrex torch cup?My thinking: a transparent cup allows 'more ambient light' and any E-Hood would work better - can anyone report better E-Hood performance due to a Pyrex cup upgrade?Opus