welding up a drilling stabilizer

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we have had a fun project the last week or so we needed a 20" stabilizer for a well we are drilling.  The wings are a400 and the pipe piece is 12" schedule 160 its about half done and we are on our 3rd roll of duel shield wire. I needed some advice though on how to straighten the drill collar that we are welding through the middle of it all or if I need to buy another one. the first picture  is the drill collar and it has about a .250 of warp from when we cut off the old wings that were on it is there an effective way to straighten it or use another one. also we are going to need to weld 4 1" plates between the 12" and the 6" collar. And how do we make the weld onto the collar without warping it again it needs a big heavy weld  and preheat any advice would be great thanks oops they are upside down Attached ImagesDo not argue with an idiot. He will drag you down to his level and beat you with experience.
Reply:lets try this again Attached ImagesDo not argue with an idiot. He will drag you down to his level and beat you with experience.
Reply:Upside down?  I though you were just welding out of position. I would think that alternating the welding location should allow controlling warping with monitoring progress with a straight edge or simple line-of-sight.MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:Originally Posted by duaneb55Upside down?  I though you were just welding out of position. .
Reply:haha, these regulars are so funny...that's why i read almost every thread here... big welding here,  +1 on what duane said and please post a dime to help us see proportions...ok in your case a beer can would do (empty ones accepted too ....
Reply:When i straighten scrue's(augers) to you farmers I put the bare pipe in v-blocks and clamp a carpenters square on a saw horse place it in the middle and measure from the square to the pipe find the high spot (the shortest measurement when going off the top) and heat it and let it cool and repeat.
Reply:With the straight wings you have there, add some extra weld on your high side. Most stabilizers I work on are the spiral type and we just build them up to gage and hardface with UTP 711.
Reply:Just a quick question, does yours rotate with the stem or just ride along the stem?
Reply:yes its going to rotate I wanted a spiral set up but i didn't know were to get the bars rolled I think thats the term and my rig is small enough I couldn't twist anything off anyway. I couldn't afford a factory one either. do you think we need a few more passes on the high side? it has about an 1"up the side as it is. I definitely do not want them breaking off down hole thoughDo not argue with an idiot. He will drag you down to his level and beat you with experience.
Reply:I think we are done welding on this. we got a different drill collar and slipped it in. I talked to some professional welders and they said to preheat it and that that would help reduce warpage. of course I couldn't  get any temperature crayons in this area so I used some solder, melts at  420 here is how we attempted to heat it don't know if its the proper way but it seemed to work will not know until I start rotating it though if we are going to have a wobbly hole. I was running way to many amps and inches per minute on the end plates with the pre heat so my welds got ugly, o well Attached ImagesDo not argue with an idiot. He will drag you down to his level and beat you with experience.
Reply:Originally Posted by idacalI think we are done welding on this. we got a different drill collar and slipped it in. I talked to some professional welders and they said to preheat it and that that would help reduce warpage. of course I couldn't  get any temperature crayons in this area so I used some solder, melts at  420 here is how we attempted to heat it don't know if its the proper way but it seemed to work will not know until I start rotating it though if we are going to have a wobbly hole. I was running way to many amps and inches per minute on the end plates with the pre heat so my welds got ugly, o well
Reply:That coning is a good idea we will do that i had hadnt thought  about getting back out of the hole the rig im runniing this on is small it will not twist off lightweight 4.5 drill rod. But i think I will run gussets to to the collar that will help with pulling out and spreading the stressesDo not argue with an idiot. He will drag you down to his level and beat you with experience.
Reply:12v71 you said you taper about 3 times the thickness of the fillet what did you mean? The weld is 3 times as wide on the stem as the riser? Also I dont understand pre heat the shop told me to but I didnt understand why  if you have enough welding amps why do you need to do that? Just seems to warm up the shed before the sun does , I have always justwelded mild steel  so I just learning this other type of metalsDo not argue with an idiot. He will drag you down to his level and beat you with experience.
Reply:The preheat helps to avoid having a possible crack forming at the toe of the fillet weld on the stem, If I had a way to post a pic I would show you the way I taper that weld, but I think you have the idea. the gussets are a good way to go, too. they kind of act as teeth when you pull back while you're rotating. Plus it will spread the load on that weld area, staggered gussets are good too. Like using 3 that go up the stem 6" and 3 that go up 10". Hope this helps.