Hydraulic oil cooler for log splitter

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I'm happy with the 28 ton hydraulic log splitter I bought, but I believe the oil tank is far too small for the 17GPM rating on the pump and after 45 minutes of heavy use, the cylinder starts to shudder a bit and I can't put an ungloved hand on the cylinder for more than a second. Eventually I will be heavily modifying the splitter and reconfiguring it, but for now, I need to get the temps down to a sane level. The two options are adding an auxiliary oil tank to increase oil capacity, or to add an oil cooler.I'm exploring the oil cooler option and wondered about the possibility to use the engine exhaust to draught cooling air by suction through the cooler by having the exhaust empty in to a tube and have an opening in the tube upstream of the exhaust (meaning the exhaust can't back flow in to the cooler) be connected by sheet metal to enclose one side of the cooler. I would think that the engine at full tilt (9HP Kohler), the exhaust would be able to induce a decent air draught through the cooler.Exhaust would go in the top connection, left end would be connected to the cooler. Probably wouldn't make it anywhere near this fancy (I'd just use straight exhaust pipe, unless a true venture increases performance markedly).Comments?Eventually I plan to build a setup like this re-using the engine/pump/cylinder/controls from the splitter I have now and build it in to something like this: Last edited by ttyR2; 07-18-2014 at 12:15 AM.
Reply:Put an electric fan on it.As for the venture cooling... I'm not sure. Build it and report your results. I know exhaust gassed are cooled using a venture tip on some systems.http://www.archivedsites.com/techlink/2006/12/
Reply:I'd put a regular fin/tube cooler on it and let her go, I'm assuming you don't have a charging system on there so an electric fan is out of the question. You might be able to mount it in front of the recoil/flywheel fan to draw air through it.
Reply:Run it in the winter.........zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:Nope...no electrical system beyond the mag on the engine. No water available either. I'll start with the cooler and worry about pulling air through it later if it doesn't help.
Reply:Originally Posted by zapsterRun it in the winter......
Reply:pssst, it's "venturi".http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Venturi_effectA 'venture' is something you go on.  Which can lead to adventure.  Or disaster.  Many (most?) of the 'small' hydraulic log splitters do indeed seem to have relatively small fluid reservoirs.  So the fluid volume is a bit on the 'small' size and also the surface area of the tank is a bit on the small size for the hydraulic power (aka heat) that is gping through the system.  Bigger tank(s) with more fluid and more tank surface area to cool off to the air is the way to go.  A suction-line oil cooler would usually need a fan to force air across the cooler.  If you try to go this route, make sure you size the fluid passages for the needed fluid flow (don't want to 'starve' the pump on the suction side of this, bad things happen then, aka cavitation on the pump).Other option is to only run the splitter in sub-zero air temps and/or take lots of breaks (you and the machine).    The best laid schemes ... Gang oft agley ...
Reply:I'd measure the operating temp of the system in hot weather before messing with it. I've run lots of big earth moving machines and it is normal to not be able to touch the hydraulic lines even in cold weather. I kinda trust that Cat, Komatsu, Case, Volvo, etc. have the hydraulic thing figured out. All of them get hot when you are running steady, all have huge reservoirs and big coolers with big fans, so they are not running too hot, but still too hot to touch. Might save yourself some trouble if it isn't getting hot.Mr. HE
Reply:Wood does split better frozen. I believe the older jeep grand Cherokees used a hydraulic cooling fan
Reply:Wood might split easier when frozen, but this splitter is big enough that it rarely shifts in to the low range on the pump splitting anything around here. It goes through knots sideways easily, when necessary.Thinking I would use it more in late winter/early spring, I used AW32 fluid in it. Frankly, I've used it mostly when it's temperate to hot out. Would jumping to AW68 help keep the cylinder running smoothly? The fact that it starts chattering a bit makes me question if the seals are going to last. I know just going to a heavier oil doesn't make things run cooler, but if it lubricated better at higher temps, maybe that's all I actually need.Yes..."venture" was a typo.
Reply:Steel tank? You could easily add cooling finns to it (weld flatbar to it), giving it the surface area and cooling capability of a much larger tank. Any way of making air move past it should do good too.
Reply:Your tank should be the same size as your system GPM, I.E. 15 GPM pump-15 gallon tank. Check that first, if the tank is too small either build a bigger on or find a good Hayden type cooler to cool your return flow. If the cooler is sized properly you shouldnt need a fan. But Im betting your tank is too small.
Reply:The  "shudder" tells me your having a pump cavitation problem. It most likely has nothing to do with oil temps and a whole lot more to do with restrictions or air bubbles in the oil as a result of a poorly designed oil tank/hydraulic system.  Your tank capacity should exceed the gpm of the pump by 2 times.   Did you call the manufacturer? Maybe it was not designed to run for 45 minutes of continuous usage.  Why not just run it for 40 minutes and then take a little "siesta"...... What is the make and model of your log splitter?
Reply:Is this a purchased splitter or a homemade splitter? Pics would help.Tim Beeker.
Reply:Originally Posted by woodtick007The  "shudder" tells me your having a pump cavitation problem. It most likely has nothing to do with oil temps and a whole lot more to do with restrictions or air bubbles in the oil as a result of a poorly designed oil tank/hydraulic system.  Your tank capacity should exceed the gpm of the pump by 2 times.   Did you call the manufacturer? Maybe it was not designed to run for 45 minutes of continuous usage.  Why not just run it for 40 minutes and then take a little "siesta"...... What is the make and model of your log splitter?
Reply:in the spirit of invention, I like the idea of the exhaust venturi cooler thing.bosses stuff:trailblazer 325maxstar 200my stuff:sa 200fronius transpocket 180100 amp Lincoln w/f97 f350 DITKevin
Reply:I had a Brave log splitter that was build in the mid 1970's and the oil would get very very hot. Long story short....I sold that machine in 2009 and it still functioned perfectly.  Moral of the story....run it.  I dont know if your a big meat eater. . . but my brother and I are. . what we did after a while was harness that heat by wrapping a pot roast in foil and duck taping it around the cylinder. ..after about 4 hours of splitting untape flip the roast over retape for the remainder of the day.....5 O clock came around and it was perfectly done. I dont think you would want to use your exhaust idea on the oil or roast....  Something to think about.
Reply:It's one of these: http://dirtyhandtools.com/28-Ton%20Web%20Page.htmlWell built unit, but typical of 'consumer' grade splitters.
Reply:On our 1/4 scale pulling tractor we tried the venturi system with a larger stack over the smaller stack to pull cool air over our aluminum exhaust shroud. It didn't work well enough to get the temp down enough on the shroud to pass tech inspections. If we were to try it again it would need to be "hour-glass" shaped to effectively pull the air through, but i don't think the engine (31hp briggs) has enough exhaust flow to pull the required air flow to keep the temp down. I know hyd systems can operate above 180 degrees F but up in the 200 degree range the oil and hoses start to break down.
Reply:Originally Posted by ttyR2It's one of these: http://dirtyhandtools.com/28-Ton%20Web%20Page.htmlWell built unit, but typical of 'consumer' grade splitters.
Reply:Like the Venturi set up . Plan on using this setup on a JD 450b dozer exhaust , to remove heat from engine area.Flow master exhaust sells cones. Setup will be like Chevy Dura max exhaust, like what Forehire posted. My also try it on a lincoln short hood .
Reply:Originally Posted by forhirePut an electric fan on it.As for the venture cooling... I'm not sure. Build it and report your results. I know exhaust gassed are cooled using a venture tip on some systems.http://www.archivedsites.com/techlink/2006/12/
Reply:Oil bypassing the piston rings in the cylinder will cause shear heat...Tim Beeker.
Reply:my brother just built a wood splitter with a 2  speed pump also. he used a piece of pipe 16" round 2 foot long for his tank its about 19 gallons and it will get warm. you have a 6.5 gallon tank if its full to the top, so at least 1 gallon less than that for space for when the cylinder retracts. the oil is making over 3 rotations per minute if your you are splitting on the low pressure side and with a 5" cylinder almost everything would split on the low side. those hoses are almost always undersized and when the oil speed is to many feet per second  in the hoses it makes heat also and can take on air in the tank from the velocity. best bet and cheapest is a bigger tankDo not argue with an idiot. He will drag you down to his level and beat you with experience.
Reply:Nice thought with the ventury!Read the manual, Pump suction seems to be very close to the return from the filter causing foam and bubbles. I bet there's no squash plate or whatever in the tank.Does the control valve have an open connection between pressure and return ? or does it blow it's oil over the pressure control valve (at least it should be there somewhere) and boils it.Normal running temp for hydraulics is 70 degrees Celsius, and that's not a comfortable temp to put your hand on.Hydraulic cooler should have enough time between splits to do it's job, but only works when there's pressure available. (see open P-T port part above).I too am curious if there's a baffle plate in the tank directing the return fluid away from the inlet. Didn't think to look before assembling the fittings.I'm dismayed at how the jerks came out of the woodwork (so to speak) on the arborist site and just jumped on DHT about their splitters. Frankly, fit and finish on them is better than the Speeco units I looked at. The web just brings out the obnoxiousness in people.I'm curious if you can work the crap out of the other brands that are in the same class of splitter for hours on end without having any heating issues. I don't frankly know, but I haven't seen any other "consumer" grade splitters with 20 gallon tanks on them either. I suspect the issue happens with other brands as well.
Reply:I have an older Brave brand splitter, 20 ton. I heat my home and shop solely with wood and used this splitter for 18 years. I am on the 3rd motor. I have hade absolutely no issues with the hydraulics at all.I haven't even changed fluid.Heating, jerking is not an issue.Tim Beeker.
Reply:I think you hit on the issue when you said consumer grade. some sizes of logs the cylinder barely quits moving they are splitting so fast if you have help. you wouldn't expect a consumer grade welder to have a 100% duty cycle maybe just slow down maybe shoot for 1/2 cord an hour rather than 1.5.  on a derail, the professional brand IR and sullair basically all 185 tow behind compressors also have duty cycles and will overheat in about an hour of wide open use. when you think about it usually when people are out splitting wood there is adult beverage, lots of wrestling rounds, moving split wood piles, and it gives everything a chance to cool off but if you want to run full speed with efficient wood handling something needs changed shuddering hydraulics is not good.Last edited by idacal; 07-20-2014 at 10:19 AM.Do not argue with an idiot. He will drag you down to his level and beat you with experience.