Stick welder setup question

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I've got a project made up of 1/2" and 1/4" round mild steel stock and I'd like to try my hand at stick welding some of it.  Attached are pics of what it should look like when it's done, as well as my initial work using OA last night.I've got a Lincoln AC/DC stick welder and a supply of 7014 and 6010 rod, so what I'd like is for recommendations on machine setup (AC or DC?  Approximate current setting?) and which stick might work best.DavidDayton 3Z563A 230/140 amp AC/DC stickCleveland, OH
Reply:make your end pieces half circle instead of way pic showesadd feet to bottom - put cross pieces in - should be less metal6010 dc 80 to 100 ampsThe main thing is not to panic or get excited Bobcat 250, X-Treme 12VS,  MM211Meltabo, Milwaukee,Porter Cable,Dewalt,MakitaVictor O/A, Ingersoll-RandEvolution Rage2, 40 amp PlasmaLincoln 225 AC/DC
Reply:Originally Posted by Renagademake your end pieces half circle instead of way pic showesadd feet to bottom - put cross pieces in - should be less metal6010 dc 80 to 100 amps
Reply:What rod sizes are you using. That is more of a determining factor when deciding machine settings. Big difference in settings for say3/32", 1/8", and 5/16" rods.
Reply:Get some 7018.
Reply:Originally Posted by TimmyTIGGet some 7018.
Reply:Originally Posted by BistineauWhat rod sizes are you using. That is more of a determining factor when deciding machine settings. Big difference in settings for say3/32", 1/8", and 5/16" rods.
Reply:Well then, about 90 amps on the 7014, & 110 on the 6010. I would most likely opt for the 6010 myself, but either will be fine for this. Make sure to state rod diameter as well as type in future questions such as this.Or just read the label on the box for suggested amp ratings for the rod your using and adjust from there.
Reply:For that small project, I agree with Bistineau on the settings, though I would use the 7014.
Reply:Just a side note but 6010 wants DC+ and 7014 takes whatever polarity you throw at it.My "collection":Homemade Stick WelderVictor O/A TorchAC 225Ideal Arc 250HF 90 Amp Flux CoreHF Mig 170Solar 2020 Plasma CutterPower i-Mig 140EHarris O/A torchHF Dual Mig 131140STAlpha Tig 200x
Reply:I would personally go with 6010/6011 at about 90 amps DCEP. If you have to buy the rod, you can go with 6011. 6010/6011 will be easier to restrike than 7014, or 7018.Miller Multimatic 255
Reply:Okay, here are the results.  This was an entirely new piece, all done with arc...I also finished the previous one that I'd started with OA but didn't snap a pic of that one.  I went with the 3/32" 7014 DC+, as I couldn't find the 6010 for some reason.  The search will continue, since I know I bought an entire box of it recently.I found arc welding a LOT harder than gas welding...everything happens so fast and it's harder to see.  Another huge difference is the requirement to clamp pieces, since they often move out of alignment when you touch them to strike the arc.  With gas I didn't need to clamp anything.Feel free to critique.Last edited by st.ryder64; 09-30-2015 at 07:59 PM.DavidDayton 3Z563A 230/140 amp AC/DC stickCleveland, OH
Reply:Nice job with the forged pieces. I'm looking forward to seeing it completed.Not too bad. A little heavy on the weld in the center where all the elements come together, but other than that not bad. When forging, you can often "hide" your welds in a number of ways. one way is to simply choose to put them where they are least likely to be seen, say on the underside. Another option is to dress the welds in the forge. You can go back in some times and "blend" the welds by heating to red hot or hotter and then taking the peen of the hammer to them. Another way is to do collars and cover the welds. If you go take a look at the wine rack I forged earlier this year, you can see the collars I made to hide the welds for the rings I forged and where I welded the rings together.  http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php...rged-wine-rackThen there's always the old stand by, the grinder... One thing with grinders is that the finish they leave won't often match the rest of the work that was forged. You can simply stick the piece back in the fire again to get the scale to form and it will take away a lot of the "shininess" that makes ground areas stick out..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Not sure why that pic came out so small...pretty hard for you to see the welds at that size.  Every time I post it, it gets reduced down by the attachment manager.  Is there some limit to attachment size here? Attached ImagesDavidDayton 3Z563A 230/140 amp AC/DC stickCleveland, OH
Reply:And here's the finished project (barring cleanup and painting).  Any suggestions for surface prep for painting with a regular enamel flat paint?  Wish I could just chuck the entire thing into a giant polishing tumbler...it's gonna take forever to clean all those nooks and crannies.  I've got access to a sandblaster but it's not big enough to handle this piece.DavidDayton 3Z563A 230/140 amp AC/DC stickCleveland, OH
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWNice job with the forged pieces. I'm looking forward to seeing it completed.Not too bad. A little heavy on the weld in the center where all the elements come together, but other than that not bad. When forging, you can often "hide" your welds in a number of ways. one way is to simply choose to put them where they are least likely to be seen, say on the underside. Another option is to dress the welds in the forge. You can go back in some times and "blend" the welds by heating to red hot or hotter and then taking the peen of the hammer to them. Another way is to do collars and cover the welds. If you go take a look at the wine rack I forged earlier this year, you can see the collars I made to hide the welds for the rings I forged and where I welded the rings together.  http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php...rged-wine-rackThen there's always the old stand by, the grinder... One thing with grinders is that the finish they leave won't often match the rest of the work that was forged. You can simply stick the piece back in the fire again to get the scale to form and it will take away a lot of the "shininess" that makes ground areas stick out.