Lincwelder 225...PLEASE Help

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OK.  I've made a few post on my 225 but with very few replies.  Thanks to those that have responded.  I'm desperate for anyone's expertise/help.  My new purchase is an old unit (still trying to ID model # and year of production) that requires a little work to operate at full capacity.  The unit starts immediately and runs well but does not perform up to par when welding.  Therefore can anyone answer one or more questions PLEASE?  In an attempt to aid in feedback I've attached a few pictures in hopes they may help.  I went to my local Lincoln dealer/expert (Oxarc....hope it's OK to list them here) and got some good feedback from them but would like more feedback from you now that I've torn into the machine.  Now, with all this, here's the issue.  When welding, I can weld with a good arc for only about 5-10 minutes before I lose "welding" power.  The dealer said check the brushes (and some other things I didn't understand) so I went home and took pictures. Questions: (1) Are the brushes worn or still good.  He also said to check for dust but I see none to mention.  (2) What else would cause the unit to reduce performance after 5-10 minutes?  (3) After paying $500.00 for the unit is it worth it to invest more money?  NOTE:  I can purchase a new Hobart 10,000 watt unit (day after Turkey Day) for $2,300 after 15% sale discount.  And that's with leads.  Not cheap but new, under warranty, and reliable...although I really love old nostalgic stuff.  (4) Last question...I hope.  There are 2 cable controls on the engine.  One (right side) is the choke.  The other on the left is unknown and the Lincoln repair tech could not ID from my description.  Guys....I would really appreciate ANY feedback possible on this unit.  I would really like to fix it ( as cheap as possible) but need a welder and will purchase a new one if required.  Thanks for you help. Attached Images
Reply:O2LariatLong distance troubleshooting is tricky, but...Your pics show a DC commutator, and some alternator slip rings.From here the brushes look okay, and the surfaces clean enough.Since it welds for a while and then quits, I'm guessing that you're losing field current in the DC generator. Are you also losing AC power?Can you see or feel the back of the current control rheostat?Look for signs of no connection or arcing at the "wiper" which picks up current off the rheostat windings.Feel the rheostat temperature:If cool you may have an open in the fields.If very hot you may have a short in the fields.Hope it's a start.Good LuckLast edited by denrep; 11-21-2008 at 10:53 PM.
Reply:02 Lariat,All the brushes look fine - lots of material left there but what looks broken near the rear bearing housing?Is the unit data tag still on the unit?  If yes, do you have the Code number off the tag?With the basic product name (Lincwelder 225) and Code number you can down-load the correct manual here http://www.mylincolnelectric.com/Cat...ualsearch.aspxMM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:Originally Posted by denrepO2LariatLong distance troubleshooting is tricky, but...Your pics show a DC commutator, and some alternator slip rings.From here the brushes look okay, and the surfaces clean enough.Since it welds for a while and then quits, I'm guessing that you're losing field current in the DC generator. Are you also losing AC power?Can you see or feel the back of the current control rheostat?Look for signs of no connection or arcing at the "wiper" which picks up current off the rheostat windings.Feel the rheostat temperature:If cool you may have an open in the fields.If very hot you may have a short in the fields.Hope it's a start.Good Luck
Reply:Duanne 55,    Thanks for such a quick reply.  Sorry but I have no absolutley no idea what most of your lingo means.  I can weld but that's about it.  As for the AC power loss the answer is yes.  I tested it when first purchased and it ran my grinder just fine.  The after welding and trying it again I had no power to the outlet.  When I lose welding power I can shut the unit off and it's back again...for 5-10 minutes.  I REALLY hate to show my ignorance but I don't know what or where the rheostat is or where it's located.  This is really embarassing.
Reply:02 Lariat - The rheostat is the fine current control; that was my best long-shot guess. Now that I know you're losing AC output, I'm not so keen on DC field problems - which is good. Another simple test that might help isolate the trouble would be to run AC loads only, and see if power drops off when no welding is being done. Maybe you can luck out with a close visual inspection and find an overheating or sparking component. A schematic would be helpful; otherwise, -unless you're ready to learn a new trade-  you'll probably have to let a shop have a look at it. Wish I had a better answer.Good Luck
Reply:Originally Posted by 02 LariatDuanne 55,    Thanks for such a quick reply.  Sorry but I have no absolutley no idea what most of your lingo means.  I can weld but that's about it.  As for the AC power loss the answer is yes.  I tested it when first purchased and it ran my grinder just fine.  The after welding and trying it again I had no power to the outlet.  When I lose welding power I can shut the unit off and it's back again...for 5-10 minutes.  I REALLY hate to show my ignorance but I don't know what or where the rheostat is or where it's located.  This is really embarassing.
Reply:OK.  Now I'm getting somewhere.  Thanks for putting it in simple terms for an old coon-*** (originally from the bayou).  I did indeed find a lose connection on the fine tuning control knob when removing the cover to take those pictures I sent in.  I'll let you all know the results when I get it put back together today.  Thanks so much guys!
Reply:Originally Posted by 02 LariatOK.  Now I'm getting somewhere.  Thanks for putting it in simple terms for an old coon-*** (originally from the bayou).  I did indeed find a lose connection on the fine tuning control knob when removing the cover to take those pictures I sent in.  I'll let you all know the results when I get it put back together today.  Thanks so much guys!
Reply:Make sure your brushes aren't stuck, but  If the arc is dying,  could it be a problem in the arc "reactors" that stabilize the current?Esab Migmaster 250Lincoln SA 200Lincoln Ranger 8Smith Oxy Fuel setupEverlast PowerPlasma 80Everlast Power iMIG 160Everlast Power iMIG 205 Everlast Power iMIG 140EEverlast PowerARC 300Everlast PowerARC 140STEverlast PowerTIG 255EXT
Reply:OK.  Found lose wire on the Fine adjustment knob but also found what what appears to be a missing wire.  In the picture you can see a connector (half broken) where another wire goes.  Does anyone know what wire should go here?As far as all the great input about potential problems I guess I'll have ot take it in if it still doesn't weld correctly after tightening this wire since I'm clueless on everything else. Attached Images
Reply:I'm sure the third terminal on the fine control was deliberately cut, to prevent connection to the wrong side of the resistor core.Does the welder have any electronics (semiconductors)  to look at?Good Luck
Reply:Originally Posted by denrepI'm sure the third terminal on the fine control was deliberately cut, to prevent connection to the wrong side of the resistor core.
Reply:denrep,You asked "Does the welder have any electronics (semiconductors) to look at?"  Boy am I glad this is internet chat and not face to face with my stupidity on these electronic questions.  Where would I find the semiconductors?....Everyone can laugh now!
Reply:02 Lariat - Not recognizing welder electronics is nothing to be embarrassed about. Shoot, I couldn't tell an alligator from a crocodile or a  Cajun-Queen from a Voodoo-Queen, -if it weren't for her daddy's shotgun-  and any old coon-*** could probably sort 'em out blindfolded! I was hoping that a close visual inspection of the welder's inards might reveal an obvious failed component; if not, any further serious troubleshooting will require a meter and schematic. Pretty tough long distance work.I'm not familiar with that particular machine, but if it had electronics, or a "board" they usually would be mounted undercover and on some sort of a heat-sink. Sorry to say - I have a feeling a previous owner would have known about this problem.Maybe another user might bet a hunch?Good Luck
Reply:denrep,   Thanks for the reply and understanding.  I'm gonna reassemble the welder tomorrow now I've found the lose wire on the rheostat and see how she runs.  Although a pretty penny I'm contemplating getting a Hobart 10,000 watt day after turkey day as my primary but keeping this one for nostalgia.  I love antiques...especially operational.   As far as th difference in a Cajun Queen and Voodoo Queen........I married the Cajun Queen 23 years ago and the Voodoo Queen (guess who) came with her.  Alligator = round nose.  Crock = pointed one.    I'll let you know the outcome.Thanks again.
Reply:Check for hot components or sparks; you might still luck out.Sometimes if you can check ‘em out in the dark, (the welder! ) you may spot a stray flash or arcing terminal.Good Luck
Reply:denrep,    Once again thanks for the feedback.  I'll try that tomorrow since it'll be dark and I'll be reassembling it by halogen.  I hate dark by 4:30!