New to me tig welder. A few questions

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I have a miller syncrowave  250 there are so many different dials and switches I have no idea what to set it at. I have might welded before  but never tig. I plan on using some intake manifolds from cars to practice on.can anyone give me a basic setup to use for this machine to weld aluminum intakes?I don't know how to put up pics!
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Reply:polarity to AC, high frequency to continuous, arc control off, balance not sure, but I think 5 is a good place to start, amperage control to remote, contactor to remote, crater and post flow up to you.Miller Multimatic 255
Reply:Originally Posted by Louie1961polarity to AC, high frequency to continuous, arc control off, balance not sure, but I think 5 is a good place to start, amperage control to remote, contactor to remote, crater and post flow up to you.
Reply:make sure your aluminum is clean. what are you using for tungsten?Miller Multimatic 255
Reply:that welder looks mighty familiar BTW.  Miller Multimatic 255
Reply:Alum is a tough material to learn on. It welds completely different than steel does. It also wants a lot more heat/power than steel. With alum you set your amps high to get a puddle to form quickly, then use the pedal to back down as the material heats up moving quickly to try and outrun the heat build up in the material. Alum is such a good heat sink that if you try to creep up on the amps like you can with steel, all you do is heat up the material without getting a puddle to form. Once the material gets up to temp, a huge area will want to go all at once and things start to come apart at that point. With alum when you have issues, the solution is usually to ADD more amps and go faster. To do this you usually have to have the basics down to the point where everything is instinctive or you crash and burn.You may find my quote on how we teach tig early in this post to be of help to you. I've done several other similar posts in the past on the subject.http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php...ng-to-tig-weld.No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:I actually find learning and teaching TIG on aluminum easier than steel.    But the varying thickness of an intake manifold will complicate things.  Get some  1/8 plate too practice with.Tiger Sales:  AHP Distributor    www.tigersalesco.comAHP200x; AHP 160ST; MM350P,  Spoolmatic 30A; Everlast PowerTig 185; Thermal Dynamics 60i plasma.  For Sale:  Cobra Mig 250 w/ Push-pull gun.  Lincoln Wirematic 250
Reply:I'm using 1/8 brazing rod probly shouldn't use it right? That's all I havethis is what it's doing
Reply:Most OA brazing rods sold in stores are zinc not alum. You really need alum tig rods like 4043 or 5356 to name 2 of the easiest ones to locate.Southpaw in some ways I'd agree IF someone is teaching the person to weld. On your own, there's just way too much going on that has to happen all at once for someone with no reference yet to really make a good start without starting to get frustrated. I've seen it done, but most times guys get better results faster with steel, even if it's just learning the simple things like controlling torch angle, travel speed, arc length, adding filler and the pedal. Learning all of this at the same time at the speeds needed to do alum usually is just way too much for the new tig welder to absorb all at once on his own easily..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Hello, EE.Beautiful Sync 250! Welcome to the forum.Here is a thread of mine a while back. Near the bottom is a link to a document that may help you. I sort of mapped each switch and dial. Took me a while to figure mine out too, but now I love that machine. I just wish my skills could do it justice.http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php...-HF&highlight=Burt _____________________Miller Syncrowave 250Millermatic 211Miller 375 Plasma Cutter Hobart Handler 12010FtDrillBit.com
Reply:Clean aluminum is critical... Tungsten also needs to be for aluminum... I had the exact same unit... It's transformer is massive and typical CA cycling causes a lot of heat so you should have water cooled torch for heavy duty aluminum work.    I'd recommend you start with small Guage clean aluminum first... Manifolds have been exposed to oil and fuel so getting them clean is hard.  I put them in dish washers to really clean up.
Reply:AC is needed to clean the oxide layer that forms immediately after cleaning aluminum. Balance is a trade off between cleaning action, and penetration. Also, the more Electrode Positive, meaning the more cleaning action, the more heat at the tip of the tungsten. This can cause tungsten problems. Avoid cast aluminum until you are very competent with bar stock.An optimist is usually wrong, and when the unexpected happens is unprepared. A pessimist is usually right, when wrong, is delighted, and well prepared.
Reply:Originally Posted by EEngineeringI'm using 1/8 brazing rod probly shouldn't use it right? That's all I havethis is what it's doing
Reply:I just got some filler rod 1/16 and I'm trying to weld but when I start it's not getting an arc and not burning the aluminum and I'm burning up my tungsten.  I got the argon flowing I got good aluminum scrap I don't know what's going on now.
Reply:This is what I'm getting
Reply:Torch
Reply:Check your gas. Can you hear it flowing when you tap the pedal to get things started?.No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Yes it flows constant have a dial on the torch
Reply:Here are the settings. Any good?
Reply:Using green tip tungsten  #7 tip 3/32 tungsten
Reply:Originally Posted by EEngineeringYes it flows constant have a dial on the torch
Reply:If your going to practice on crap aluminum your gona get crap results. Go get some 1.5 inch strips of 1/8 aluminum or just a piece of 5inch x 12 inches and run beads. And get a 1/8 tungsten zerconiated or lanthanated seems like everyone likes that 2% stuff. Turn up the post flow also
Reply:The aluminum  seems good.  I basically have to touch the tungsten to start a arc then it just doesn't puddle up.
Reply:Ok, let's start fresh. Your tungsten cannot get dirty. In fact dress it to a point and do not ball it back. A balled tungsten glazes over and is harder to start. It  will ball back on it's own and don't let it get bigger than the shank.  Then confirm you have the right gas and from the looks of your cup it may be a #6. So 2 to 3 times the cup size should be your gas flow from the flowmeter. More is not better. Next check to see if your gas is choked off at the torch. The collet body should be all the way in, then your cup, then tighten the backcap. Check your collet to see that it is not crushed or twisted, as that may block the gas getting to your cup. I then check torch flow at the cup using a portable gas flowmeter. If all that is good give the start a try. If still is not lighting up, lift the cable door and look for the HF start dial down there. There should also be a cover to check you point gaps. They could be worn and need dressing and regaping. I don't remember the gap but .008" comes to mind. Your owner's manual should have it. One thing often overlooked is the condition of the ground clamp when arc starts are difficult, so check that too.Remember to start the arc with a gap about the same diameter of your tungsten. For you the gap would be .09 or so and try to maintain that gap as you are adding rod. Good luck, you will get it.Weld like a "WELDOR", not a wel-"DERR" MillerDynasty700DX,Dynasty350DX4ea,Dynasty200DX,Li  ncolnSW200-2ea.,MillerMatic350P,MillerMatic200w/spoolgun,MKCobraMig260,Lincoln SP-170T,PlasmaCam/Hypertherm1250,HFProTig2ea,MigMax1ea.Turn your balance to 7. Anything below will ball back your green tungsten too fast. Leave it there for the time being for AC and DC. Do us a favor and lift the door and take a pic?Last edited by shovelon; 02-09-2015 at 03:27 PM.Weld like a "WELDOR", not a wel-"DERR" MillerDynasty700DX,Dynasty350DX4ea,Dynasty200DX,Li  ncolnSW200-2ea.,MillerMatic350P,MillerMatic200w/spoolgun,MKCobraMig260,Lincoln SP-170T,PlasmaCam/Hypertherm1250,HFProTig2ea,MigMax1ea.
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Reply:Ok, with the machine on, trip the pedal and you should see an arc across the points. You might want to check those gaps against your manual. Or perhaps it is posted on the inside of the cover. You can also increase the start current with that dial to the left of the auxiliary plugs I believe. Is that the gas solenoid between the dial and points? I don't remember.Weld like a "WELDOR", not a wel-"DERR" MillerDynasty700DX,Dynasty350DX4ea,Dynasty200DX,Li  ncolnSW200-2ea.,MillerMatic350P,MillerMatic200w/spoolgun,MKCobraMig260,Lincoln SP-170T,PlasmaCam/Hypertherm1250,HFProTig2ea,MigMax1ea.
Reply:You are using a peddle, I assume.30+ yrs Army Infantry & Field Artillery, 25 yrs agoMiller 350LX Tig Runner TA 210, spool gunLincoln 250/250 IdealArcESAB PCM 500i PlasmaKazoo 30"  vert BSKazoo 9x16 horiz BSClausing 12x24 lathe20T Air Press
Reply:Yes using a peddle.
Reply:I went and got some new tungsten green tip 3/32 today. Compared to the **** I was using I think I should be in good shape.  This new tungsten is bright and shiny. The one I was using looked like it was buried in dirt.I also wasn't grinding the tip to a point enough cause I was using a Drexeland it took forever. Now I have a bench grinder so I'm going to put some sharp points on the new tungsten  and try again tomorrow.
Reply:That green 3/32 is only good to about 140 amps if that. The balls get way to big on them
Reply:Tried again today with NEW green 3/32 tungsten. Works much better.as soon as I started to get the hang of it I ran out of argon. Why do some of the welds have burns around them ? I noticed if I used the torch and cleaned the area before I welded it works much better.
Reply:Those black areas showed where you fouled the tungsten. Alum tends to wick a fair distance up the tungsten when you foul it, so you need to grind back a fair ways when you grind, If not, the fouling will run back down and recontaminate the tungsten ( not exactly correct, but a good generic way to explain it)..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Good morning, EE.Where are you located? You can post your location in your profile. If there is a member nearby that can help you get oriented on how to start, the basics of your settings, how to clean the aluminum, starting hot and backing off, etc. you will make a much quicker step toward TIGing. Then it is practice, practice, practice.I think your HF needs adjusting, as Shovelon suggested. Then you start HOT to get puddle going immediately, back off the amps as needed, and MOVE quickly.How does your Sync do on steel? That may be a better place for you to start, less expensive.Last edited by wb4rt; 02-12-2015 at 08:42 AM.Burt _____________________Miller Syncrowave 250Millermatic 211Miller 375 Plasma Cutter Hobart Handler 12010FtDrillBit.com
Reply:I'm in Tampa FL..Does anyone know what size tank this is
Reply:I haven't used it on steel yet.  I want to do aluminum first. I know it's harder but I'm a hard head so it is what it is!
Reply:That tungsten, woah! you need to sand off all the aluminum. You can see that it is a lighter color than the tungsten, it must be removed to get any kind of good result. The tip of the tungsten also needs to be ground off until you get to fresh metal, no bubbles or pinholes. Regrind every time, you foul the tip. You'll get way better results.SqWave 200Millermatic 190Airco 200 ACHypertherm PM45Boice-Crane Band SawVictor O/A
Reply:I see you are using a flow regulator, which may increase gas flow when tank pressure goes up. Too much gas rushing over a giant balled tungsten is just as bad as too little. Keeping your arc length short is always best in my book also. I know there is lots of data on using green tungsten with AC, but that is ancient history in my book. Personally I would use red on AC and did for some 20 years and only on critical work did I use 2% ceriated. I always had good results with red and hated green with a passion. I would rather have splinters than a giant ball that I had grind every 5 minutes. I can't tell you how many greens I gave away, and those were with LindeUCC305s, the utimate trannys. If I were in your shoes I would purchase E3 or variants for AC, and red for DC. Grind the red on both ends for identification, and all AC tungstens on one end for identification. What I do see is glimpse of success. The clean welds are what you want. Figure what you were doing right and keep doing that.Weld like a "WELDOR", not a wel-"DERR" MillerDynasty700DX,Dynasty350DX4ea,Dynasty200DX,Li  ncolnSW200-2ea.,MillerMatic350P,MillerMatic200w/spoolgun,MKCobraMig260,Lincoln SP-170T,PlasmaCam/Hypertherm1250,HFProTig2ea,MigMax1ea.
Reply:Tank is a big one - probably a 330 cf. Is it leased? Most tanks that size are leased. You will need to ask your LWS (Local Welding Supply) about it and be sure they will re-fill if you did not lease from them.I use 3/32 2% lanthanated for both aluminum and steel. It holds up well on my Sync 250. You are fouling the tungsten, which is very normal when starting out. It takes a lot of practice to be able to start and hold a very close arc without touching. Basics again - good ground, 12-15 cfh argon, clean metal, clean tungsten, amps around 150, HF on continuous. Start HOT - hit the peddle and back off as soon as puddle forms, then move quickly. The filler cools the puddle as you move.Burt _____________________Miller Syncrowave 250Millermatic 211Miller 375 Plasma Cutter Hobart Handler 12010FtDrillBit.com
Reply:I did regrind the tungsten way back.  I own the bottle.I really appreciate all you guys helping me out.I'm sure I will have a lot more questions. I will be filling my tank this weekend and trying again monday.
Reply:Originally Posted by wb4rtTank is a big one - probably a 330 cf. Is it leased? Most tanks that size are leased. You will need to ask your LWS (Local Welding Supply) about it and be sure they will re-fill if you did not lease from them.
Reply:Ok I got the argon tank full today. Messed with the settings a little turned up the HF  start.tried again.  I think I'm getting somewhere now.
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Reply:You are making progress! Now, when you get to the end, pull your filler away, let off the pedal, but keep your gas flowing and hover. That will help eliminate the craters.Burt _____________________Miller Syncrowave 250Millermatic 211Miller 375 Plasma Cutter Hobart Handler 12010FtDrillBit.com
Reply:Minnesota Dave suggested this; lay your grinder down on a piece of foam to prevent it from walking. turn it around so the wheel spins away from you. I use a small cordless drill to hold the tungsten. Use a fine, dedicated wheel that has never been used on anything but tungsten. I grind a bunch of tungsten at once. Typically your collet will be back as much as an inch on your tungsten. I avoid the grinder touching the tungsten where the collet will. Run the grinder on the shaft enough to clean away any aluminum that wicked up on it. I want a perfect cylinder shape, with the taper beginning 1.5 x the diameter back from the tip. I find the arc follows the shank well to where the taper begins, then fans out. A blunt grind will give me a narrower arc. For very high current welds I deliberately round the end on DCEP with copper or a AC high on EP setting. Don't ball it, just round the tip.Get rid of the pure tungsten.Get at least one Ove Glove, and a couple TIG Fingers. Find a way to prop your hand to steady yourself. You aren't learning to weld if you spend all your time grinding and changing tungsten. Before striking an arc, practice a dry run to be sure you are comfortable steadying yourself all the way. Nobody is steady enough doing it free hand.An optimist is usually wrong, and when the unexpected happens is unprepared. A pessimist is usually right, when wrong, is delighted, and well prepared.
Reply:your pics are all sideways
Reply:I grided some tungsten to different points. I'm going to use the green tip for now until I get a chance to get something different. What do you recommend? The welding shop I go to said to use the green for aluminium.
Reply:Originally Posted by TimmyTIGyour pics are all sideways